Progress Thread Cars alive again, but would these items move on marketplace?
- Thread starter Reddevil91
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- Mar 3, 2010
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Alright so I’m at a complete loss, confused, and over it. So said screw it let’s put the orig back in and just be done with it. Well got damn I cranked it and it’s also firing up and making that same damn noise. I know it’s hard to hear and diagnose on video but it literally had the same noise as what the mini was making in the other vids. I even loosened up the cross memeber bolts bc like I said I put new PU bushings in, as well as a PU trans mount and it was tight getting it back in. I said what the heck maybe it’s slightly throwing it off some how but no that’s not it. So here is another opinion that probably isn’t it but I’m gonna try it, I was thinking well I never started my car suspended in the air as it is. When I look at it its a little tweaked being on all 4 jack stands. The motor mounts ehh they are beat bc I looked at them, don’t think I’ve ever replaced those that I could remember but maybe back in the day they were when I had my headers etc installed but I can’t remember. Now could it be possible the being suspended as it is, that maybe just maybe the engine having who knows how old motor mounts, is slightly shifted and thats why when I start it while it’s being on all 4 stands it’s causing that miss alignment and grinding noise? I’m tempted to drop it down and start it and see. Also bc I want to know if my new wheels are going to have rubbing issues. Im just over it.
View: https://youtu.be/Hkq5fgErxb4
I can't imagine how the body being tweaked or mounts being off can have an effect on the engine/trans alignment, you have not separated or even loosened up the trans to engine bolts, the dowel pins keep it aligned and nothing has changed in the clutch/flywheel area? 
- Mar 3, 2010
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No nothing at all besides pulling the drive shaft out during the brake swap but that shouldn’t have anything to do with the clutch or flywheel. I’m at a point where this may be beyond my non mechanical skilled talent.I can't imagine how the body being tweaked or mounts being off can have an effect on the engine/trans alignment, you have not separated or even loosened up the trans to engine bolts, the dowel pins keep it aligned and nothing has changed in the clutch/flywheel area?
- Mar 3, 2010
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Do you think maybe it could be the fender solenoid? I mean to me if it cranks as easily as it is the fender mounted one should be good? Maybe I should try another one to test it?I can't imagine how the body being tweaked or mounts being off can have an effect on the engine/trans alignment, you have not separated or even loosened up the trans to engine bolts, the dowel pins keep it aligned and nothing has changed in the clutch/flywheel area?
It's already been posted a couple times about the fender solenoid possibly being bad and how to diagnose it. Read @90sickfox post #316, he gave you good instructions on how to test it and how to diagnose it. It's safe to do and I've started my old 87' Ranger back in the day with a long flat head screwdriver on many occasions. See posts 311, 314, & 316 regarding fender solenoid testing.
- Mar 3, 2010
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I feel like I was just yelled at by a step dad. I’m gonna try it I was just co fused in what I needed to do but I went to you tube to check it.
Just a buddy smacking the backside of your head is all
I know you're getting frustrated and you've overlooked some good posts, most of us has been there. It's time to calm down and begin testing your ignition system. Something recently sh*t the bed while you were making modifications IMO. If I lived near you I would just stop by and help you out in person but that's not the case so we just have to be patient and try to help you out one post at a time. Get yourself a cold beer, watch that youtube video a couple more times to be sure you know what you need to do, and then go tackle it. 
- Mar 3, 2010
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Ok so let me know if i did this right lol but I did two tests thinking this is how @90sickfox meant to do it.Just a buddy smacking the backside of your head is all
View: https://youtu.be/FAiC7bROWY4
View: https://youtu.be/QY3YvIGkUn4
Try it with the ignition turned on, don't be scared, it's just a bunch of noise. All you are looking to do is not use the key to start it.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Ahh ok so just turn the key to on and see if it starts up fully? Am I basically doing the same thing in each video or is one way better than the other? Wasn’t sure if I needed the keys in or not.
Kinda the same but lets not get confused,
#1 turn key switch to on, jump the two big studs on the solenoid with the screw driver like video #2, that keeps the key switch and the solenoid out of the equation.
#1 turn key switch to on, jump the two big studs on the solenoid with the screw driver like video #2, that keeps the key switch and the solenoid out of the equation.
- Mar 3, 2010
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Oh boy guys @90sickfox @FoxMustangLvr I gotta say I take the crown on this one. So go figure it was not the starter, but anyways back to the screw driver test is it suppose to crank up or not? Never done that so I’m not sure if that’s good or bad? I appreciate all the help and effort. You guys rock!!
View: https://youtu.be/KYM86YvHuYk
View: https://youtu.be/iWshZN1vQ1s
View: https://youtu.be/iEpuRGnX2l8
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Forgot I put the new steed bracket on instead of the claws and it really snugged it forward so the shroud pulled forward and the fan was hitting the bottom. 
- Jul 12, 2017
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Dang man! I’m glad you figured it out. I’ve been following your progress. Car sounds good man.
It's always something stupid. Can't even tell you how many times I've done stuff 2-3 times only to find out it was something really simple.
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Thanks man, glad to be past this nonsense. Can’t wait to get back home and drop the car, take it to get it aligned this weekend and get the full length MM subframes on. Next step will be getting into the motor.
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