Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Personally, I’m wondering about them myself...
Then the “implied benefit” to the pressure activated air door is for what again?......
As a mounting point for 3 fake missile nosecones?
I could maybe see it as a servo controlled flapper that I could close in the event of rain,...but that wouldn’t do dick for the water spray coming off of the tire....
no no no.... I need the current copy of the tune the car is running on right now...
I know that...I was giving you the “before when it ran great under boost with watermeth” to extrapolate from...the real tune will come tonight when I get home.
I see some kind of metal separating the filter from the tire to keep water from flinging on to it, painted black would keep it from being noticed much, just ramblings of a madman, or an idiot.
There is a fairly simple way to make that work ( with the words "fairly simple" left open for interpretation) I looked at it last year when I was addressing the issue then. Cosmetics are always the issue for me...I could make a barrier of some kind to keep tire spray from soaking it, and I'd have to do the same for the frontal exposure too....the side effect being the "What in the hell is all if that metal in your wheel well?"
I actually like Noobz metal flap door idea. Fairmonts have a very ugly unfinished frontal area from the front. You can see the radiator saddle hanging down on these cars as they came from the factory. The Crack smokers that worked as design engineers back then added a plastic chin piece to try and hide it back in the 70's.
By adding the cooling shroud in the center, and the splitter under that, I somewhat managed to detract from that, but you can still see through it at the ends... If I was to make permanent filler panels of some kind to finish the facade....maybe with 3 small .030 caliber stubbed air cooled gun barrels sticking out of both sides...........
I'd give the thing a finished look, block rainwater from the front, and get Noobz off my ass all at the same time.
Mike, when you drive the car just take it easy and drive it normal. let it creep into boost and note the AFR, we want it fat in the low 11AFR range.
Dont do any wot pulls until i can verify that timing is getting pulled in the datalog, I am still out of town until Saturday and my internet here SUCKS!!!!!
Dont do any wot pulls until i can verify that timing is getting pulled in the datalog, I am still out of town until Saturday and my internet here SUCKS!!!!!
I'm not gonna be driving it before then anyway....this is probably going to go really slow until I know it's right.
BTW, I dropped you a c note for your services...check your PayPal..
( I expect you to charge for your services, not do everything for free cause you're a good guy)
I fully support this option.
Edit: Oh... and a recessed set of fog lights in those flapper covers might be cool too. Just have to find a shape that you like for the front of the car.
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The new tune is loaded....
The catch can is located...
There are no leaks,....no water leaks, no vacuum leaks, no exhaust leaks, no oil leaks...
The engine runs stupidly smooth, at a stupidly low idle for such a weird combo...
It makes 100 psi of oil pressure at cold idle, idles at 14.7-15.0 AFR .........
Aside from the squeak, there is nothing stopping me from driving this thing....
At about 10 seconds the fast idle solenoid shuts off.......almost as soon as I point the camera at the engine... There's zero blow by as evidenced by the filter not wafting anymore...
What it does is it has a flat spot when I jab the throttle. If I try to hold the throttle at 2-2500 rpm, I can tell it's too much fuel..it's somewhat blubbery... It's this that has me thinking it's not ready for prime time yet.
The catch can is located...
There are no leaks,....no water leaks, no vacuum leaks, no exhaust leaks, no oil leaks...
The engine runs stupidly smooth, at a stupidly low idle for such a weird combo...
It makes 100 psi of oil pressure at cold idle, idles at 14.7-15.0 AFR .........
Aside from the squeak, there is nothing stopping me from driving this thing....
At about 10 seconds the fast idle solenoid shuts off.......almost as soon as I point the camera at the engine... There's zero blow by as evidenced by the filter not wafting anymore...
What it does is it has a flat spot when I jab the throttle. If I try to hold the throttle at 2-2500 rpm, I can tell it's too much fuel..it's somewhat blubbery... It's this that has me thinking it's not ready for prime time yet.
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It's crazy how loud it is in front of the car and quiet out back where its supposed to be loud. 
The engine sounds like a diesel on my phone, which I think is awesome. I couldnt hear any tone at all out the tail pipe, but it was only idling. Want to hear it zoom by like you did in an earlier video. So far so good though. Cant expect the tune to be perfect on the first try with such an off the wall setup.
And I don’t.
Compared with the other potential problems I could be having with a kit built ecu, I consider it a huge win that the thing starts and runs as good as it does. After I have Steve do a ghost ride it should be good to go.
And speaking of Steve....
This guy doesn’t know how good he is. ( or will be) with regard to his understanding of digital fuel injection. The fact that through the use of remote technology, he can literally be sitting in the car with you while you are driving making real time adjustments to your tune w/o you having to go to him makes his business model one of a kind, and his service a premium.
Who in this industry makes “house calls?”
All this goes to say that if you solicit his help, do not expect it for free. he is in transition mode, his services are cheap enough-as it is.
If you had to take your junk to a tuner with a dyno, you’d pay 350-500 for a decently dialed in tune, and there still may be need for a second session after that......
That’s all I can say about it....
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