Help on normal operating temps on daily driver OEM 5.0

[MrPerfect2]

Will find out this afternoon how she runs after the cleaning - the power of the flow leads me to believe the water pump is good . The only thing I did not verify is the inner cooling chambers in middle not clogged and flowing proper. I could take some temp gun readings on various spots of outside of radiator to see if any cool spots not circulating . I hope I am not being OCD on these water temps though . I am going off of what others are saying ( they probably have different heads that flow water better ) several people said their car runs at : 188 , 200 , 210 ect... my car being ALL OEM is a bit different ( most people with a stock car don’t have a mechanical temp gauge either , so it hard to get a comparison on the cars actual temp )

 

[FastDriver]

All you said is correct. Your head's in the right place. You might be going a little OCD on the radiator. Even if there are "cool spots," what are you going to do if the car is staying cool? If it works, just drive the thing. Plus, I already don't think you were in trouble, but a little thing like that wouldn't stop tinkerer's like us, would it?

 

[a91what]

FWIW the engine is designed to run at around 210-220* even in my full built aftermarket ecu blah blah build i dont even turn the fan on until the car reaches 210* off at 205* high speed comes on at 220*

 

[MrPerfect2]

Ok - i won’t be too concerned if it gets to 225 on a very hot day . After 240 , I will start to question . Since I only owned it for about 2,000 miles ( and only had temp gauge for last 200 miles ) I suspect the car has run like this for sometime with no issues..

 

[MrPerfect2]

 

[MrPerfect2]

I think it’s the thermostat sticking - ran good for a long time at 235 with AC on then went into store for 20 min and decided to drive home with no AC - temp steady at 225 - then after 15 min went to 240 , turned on heat ( out of vents ) - hot air at first , then luke warm out of vents . Went to 245 then air in vents got hot - dropped down to 230 till I got home... I am going to take our thermostat and run without one for a bit if it runs ok I can put one in before winter - very perplexing .....

 

[FastDriver]

Air pockets will have that effect.

 

[MrPerfect2]

I was thinking that - I did park on incline and burp , but maybe not got all ?

 

[General karthief]

You have to jack it up pretty high when you refill the radiator. There is a funnel thing that works but can't remember what it is called.

 

[EdMac67]

Lisle Spill-Free funnel does a great job of "burping" the coolant system. I use it on my Trooper with GM V6 because it has the same issue with entrapped air.

Amazon product ASIN B00A6AS6LYView: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00A6AS6LY&pd_rd_r=7070c554-f03d-11e8-9f0a-0f336f5f387a&pd_rd_w=x1LAN&pd_rd_wg=PgxXp&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=SD2QV2CMA69KA7ZFCJA9&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=SD2QV2CMA69KA7ZFCJA9


Here's a different brand, cheaper yet:

Amazon product ASIN B01I40ZQWEView: https://www.amazon.com/EPAuto-Radiator-Coolant-Filling-Funnel/dp/B01I40ZQWE/ref=pd_cp_263_1?pd_rd_w=VxvHG&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=PVE1H29ACGYB64185M9C&pd_rd_r=bdf720b3-8d24-465c-89ad-7ad60899e55d&pd_rd_wg=sUs5K&pd_rd_i=B01I40ZQWE&psc=1&refRID=PVE1H29ACGYB64185M9C


HTH..........ed

 

[General karthief]

^^^ thats it!^^^

 

[Rdub6]

I’m about to replace my thermostat and housing. My new one came with a nice bleeder plug. I realize it’s not the highest point, but I’ll give it a try when I refill.

 

[General karthief]

I think that is not a 'bleeder plug' , it is still too low I think. Most use it for an aftermarket gauge, on older models it had a vacuum thingymabob on it for the old thermactor emissions stuff.
i just jack up the front end as far as I can and squeeze the lower hose several times to pump the air out. Works every time.

 

[Rdub6]

I think that is not a 'bleeder plug' , it is still too low I think. Most use it for an aftermarket gauge, on older models it had a vacuum thingymabob on it for the old thermactor emissions stuff.
i just jack up the front end as far as I can and squeeze the lower hose several times to pump the air out. Works every time.

Makes sense. It seemed like it was not the ideal spot to bleed from...... with the rad cap being a few inches higher.

 

[96pushrod]

I think that is not a 'bleeder plug' , it is still too low I think. Most use it for an aftermarket gauge, on older models it had a vacuum thingymabob on it for the old thermactor emissions stuff.
i just jack up the front end as far as I can and squeeze the lower hose several times to pump the air out. Works every time.

Yeah you’d definitely not have a good day if you tried running with that plug cracked open. Technically it would bleed...coolant...everywhere

Agreed with squeezing the radiator. Jacking up the front or parking on an incline isn’t a bad idea, not a requirement though.

 

[FastDriver]

I hate those damn plugs. Fought a leaky one for a long time.

 

[Rdub6]

I’m convinced..... I’ll seal it up good and bleed it the old fashioned way.

 

[MrPerfect2]

Would a sticking thermostat cause the heater core to not circulate coolant and blow cool while water temps rise - or do air pockets sound like culprit ? What can I expect to see once I take out the thermostat and drive in this heat ? Will air pockets be easier to remove with no thermostat ?

 

[MrPerfect2]

I read the flow could be too strong and squeeze the bottom hose closed

 

[General karthief]

An uncontrolled flow could deform the lower hose if it is weak.
it's not really recommended to run without a thermostat.
i test all my thermostats in a pot of water and a meat thermometer. I have found several that don't open as advertised. The 180* I have now starts to open about 185* and is fully open by 192*