that all depends on how much work you want to do.. The ford valve is the easy work around to your damaged board.
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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My whole previous reply is a testimonial to the " id rather work, than pay". What "work" do I have to do? Build an adapter?
The GM valve will require you fix the burnt up hard parts on the motherboard... using a ford valve will allow you to use a different output and you could then build an adapter.. I would remote mount the thing.. The ford idle valve [or a simple 2 wire bosch valve used on many cars] is reliable and repeatable.
- Mar 2, 2015
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Can you tap the holes in a ford IAC and install fittings ? Seems doable...use the bolt holes to bolt it to a bracket, maybe ? It's just a controlled vacuum leak...nothing like making an oil pan....or a custom engine.
Post pictures of your pan on ebay....might find someone to pay you some money to build one. ( not that you need it ) would have to sell for 800 to make the hassle worth it.
Ok....ok..... I've been drinkin' again.
Post pictures of your pan on ebay....might find someone to pay you some money to build one. ( not that you need it ) would have to sell for 800 to make the hassle worth it.
Ok....ok..... I've been drinkin' again.
Good evening my brothers from different mothers.
The monster took one large step towards becoming a Japanese powered domestic, with no back up. Today I boxed up, and shipped away both intake systems, pretty much dooming the existing 6 cylinder to scrap status. All of the stuff that you could categorize as " intakes" got jammed into one big box, weighed ( 55 lbs) and sent to some dude in West Virginia.
It cost 300 dollars to buy those BMW M3 throttle bodies, 100 to buy the 70mm Summit TB. There was who knows how much in materials cost between the two intake systems, and a billet fuel rail, and what?.......weeks of labor to build it?
It all left the building for 250.
To probably the only other guy in this country interested in buying one-off stuff to fit a long since out of production 6 cylinder...from Australia.
I count myself fortunate that I didn't have to throw it away.
The monster took one large step towards becoming a Japanese powered domestic, with no back up. Today I boxed up, and shipped away both intake systems, pretty much dooming the existing 6 cylinder to scrap status. All of the stuff that you could categorize as " intakes" got jammed into one big box, weighed ( 55 lbs) and sent to some dude in West Virginia.
It cost 300 dollars to buy those BMW M3 throttle bodies, 100 to buy the 70mm Summit TB. There was who knows how much in materials cost between the two intake systems, and a billet fuel rail, and what?.......weeks of labor to build it?
It all left the building for 250.
To probably the only other guy in this country interested in buying one-off stuff to fit a long since out of production 6 cylinder...from Australia.
I count myself fortunate that I didn't have to throw it away.
They always say you never get back out what you put in to aftermarket parts. Sounds like you did decent considering the audience of buyers.
Now that the pan is done, I have to start considering the trans swap. The engine came with a 4 speed auto, but it isn't really up to any big power capacity. It's also fully computer controlled.
And I like my manual shift auto. With converter L/U, it's almost like I have a 5 speed.
Adapting the 4r70 is gonna be true Monster-typical stuff though.....as I've thought this out for the last two weeks there are two possible paths to take...one is better than the other, but it has a fairly big "con" that can't be reversed,mane once I start down that path and it don't work.....
I'm phcked.
So, let's talk about the other way where I'm not.
Plan A: I build an adapter plate that sandwiches between the back of the 2j block, and the SBF bell pattern of the 4r70. Right now, the plan for how thick that plate will have to be is still up in the air. The problem with keeping it thin is that the 4r70 converter pilot is bigger than the pilot hole in the 2jz crank. And, according to the place I got the converter from, the converter cannot be turned down to fit inside that hole without cutting through. So,.....I have to have a stepped up adapter built that will center on the pilot hole of the crank, and step up to the diameter of the converter snout, so that the converter will have something to center in.
The thickness of that will depend on how far the converter's hub sticks past the flex plate when it's bolted up.
And that will determine how thick the sandwiched adapter plate will have to be.
And that could end up being really thick. ( like 1" or more)
If there is a 1" thick adapter between the two mating surfaces, the converter feet would also have to be commensurately thick.
The one thing you learn when contemplating this is that the stock starter mounting surface is part of the block. You want to try and keep the stock starter in place,..you want to use the stock Flexplate, hence all of the rearward spacing off of the block.
It’s a bunch of custom made stuff...completely in line with the Monster theme.
The other version uses the stock A340 removable bell. I’d have to cut the existing bell housing off of the 4r70, and use the front pump as a mounting surface for a plate that I’d use to bolt the stock bellhousing to. While this is more desirable to me, the problems arise when you have to consider the difference in the crank pilot versus the converter hub. With this scenario, I don’t have the spacing to accommodate the difference between two. The converter would have to bolt up to the Flexplate as is, as I can’t imagine that I’m gonna have enough room for a pilot adapter in the back of the crank.
So,....no worky. It also destroys any chance of bailing out, or going back once I cut that bellhousing off.
And I like my manual shift auto. With converter L/U, it's almost like I have a 5 speed.
Adapting the 4r70 is gonna be true Monster-typical stuff though.....as I've thought this out for the last two weeks there are two possible paths to take...one is better than the other, but it has a fairly big "con" that can't be reversed,mane once I start down that path and it don't work.....
I'm phcked.
So, let's talk about the other way where I'm not.
Plan A: I build an adapter plate that sandwiches between the back of the 2j block, and the SBF bell pattern of the 4r70. Right now, the plan for how thick that plate will have to be is still up in the air. The problem with keeping it thin is that the 4r70 converter pilot is bigger than the pilot hole in the 2jz crank. And, according to the place I got the converter from, the converter cannot be turned down to fit inside that hole without cutting through. So,.....I have to have a stepped up adapter built that will center on the pilot hole of the crank, and step up to the diameter of the converter snout, so that the converter will have something to center in.
The thickness of that will depend on how far the converter's hub sticks past the flex plate when it's bolted up.
And that will determine how thick the sandwiched adapter plate will have to be.
And that could end up being really thick. ( like 1" or more)
If there is a 1" thick adapter between the two mating surfaces, the converter feet would also have to be commensurately thick.
The one thing you learn when contemplating this is that the stock starter mounting surface is part of the block. You want to try and keep the stock starter in place,..you want to use the stock Flexplate, hence all of the rearward spacing off of the block.
It’s a bunch of custom made stuff...completely in line with the Monster theme.
The other version uses the stock A340 removable bell. I’d have to cut the existing bell housing off of the 4r70, and use the front pump as a mounting surface for a plate that I’d use to bolt the stock bellhousing to. While this is more desirable to me, the problems arise when you have to consider the difference in the crank pilot versus the converter hub. With this scenario, I don’t have the spacing to accommodate the difference between two. The converter would have to bolt up to the Flexplate as is, as I can’t imagine that I’m gonna have enough room for a pilot adapter in the back of the crank.
So,....no worky. It also destroys any chance of bailing out, or going back once I cut that bellhousing off.
Thoughts....you can always just buy a jy 4r70 and phck that up all you want to do the design work. You could buy another converter more customized to fit your customized setup. You could sell the existing one and get some money back.
You could sell a bunch of Beemers and with your spiffs go to someone like Quicktime or Performance Automatic and see how much a custom sbf to 2JayZee bell would cost.
You could sell a bunch of Beemers and with your spiffs go to someone like Quicktime or Performance Automatic and see how much a custom sbf to 2JayZee bell would cost.
lets start with the converter... why cant you have someone make you a converter with the correct size hub? I would start here and then move onto the other items on the list. once this part is figured out a 3/8 steel plate could be drilled to make the adapter. of course you have the flywheel to figure out but if you have a friend with a lathe they could cut the centers out of the jz and SBF flexplates and you could then weld the JZ center into the SBF flexplate and have it balanced...
I know it sounds crazy
I know it sounds crazy
- Apr 4, 2018
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If you want some mockups cnc'd out of not-metal shoot me a message
Nope, not crazy at all. Excepting your advice to have a custom converter made ( read:1000+ dollars) the thought process of bolting the two flex plates together has already crossed my mind. the converter in the 4r70 is a 10" L/U IIRC, i paid a little over 550 for the thing already. I'm not gonna sell that off at 50% if I can make it work. This Saturday will be the start of the process. I'll pull the remnants of the Monster engine, and start trying to fab up some sort of jig so that I can start attempting the marriage between the 2j, and the 4r.
I'll know soon enough what lies in front of me after that.
@CarMichael Angelo Send me a drawling and what material. I won't charge you anything really unless its some pricey material lol
Also it wouldnt hurt to check with trans dapt I know they sell piot adapters for some applications, most likely not yours but i'd give em a call anyway.
And man, I appreciate that.
I have to get the two of them together in order to know what I need thickness wise.
But I'm thinking itll end up being a 3" diameter disc with a " outtie" that will fit into the pilot hole in the crank, and an " innie" that will allow the converter to pilot into. I'm thinking that itll just float ( I hope) and that the converter will force it to stay in the crank once its bolted onto the flex plate. If the pilot is deep enough, ( the japanese converter pilot looked to be maybe maybe in the crank at least .750", and if that fit is close enough, it shouldn't try to wobble since its spinning with the crank.)
This piece is the start point for the adaptation process. Once I get something in the tail of the 2j crank that will allow the converter to line up with and fit into, the rest can be done by me.
Just thinking about it, I'd bet that the thing will start at maybe 2" thick, and finish with the pilot in the crank .750-1.00, and the remaining hub between .500-.750.
I need to keep the spacer at the finish depth of regularly available bar stock so that I can just go out and buy that junk when I need it to build the adapter plate itself.
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Whittle a stick down, attach it with chewed bubble gum, and let’s see some burnouts already.
- Jul 7, 2005
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- Jul 7, 2005
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