Your confusing me..If the key is off,..what difference does it make to anything downstream in the system?
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Your confusing me..If the key is off,..what difference does it make to anything downstream in the system?
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I don’t want to post any pictures,..Nothing visual has changed since last time anyway.
Today was “ hook it up, and see what you got” testing day.
Its a mixed bag.
Every single accessory worked. Every single solenoid driven device worked save one. The IAC valve.
Cranking the engine revealed that I had no cam signal. Checking continuity on the cam position sensor socket revealed that I had none. Doing the same for the IAC valve confirmed that I had swapped over two wires. The cam position sensor, and the idle air valve. Both had black wires for ground, I must’ve got them mixed,..... but here is the rub.
Even though I had a black wire coming from the IAC valve,... that wire was intended to have 12v routed to it ( Which I did, I just used red shrink wrap at the end to designate it as hot. The problem is that I was sending 12v to a sensor.
Ill know tomorrow if it’s phcked or not. I’m done for the day.
I listened to you @a91what . I added a switched 12v run to the three relays in the trunk. Before testing. I also found the purpose of the mysterious wire...its in the B&G version of the mega manual. Right there, big as sht, instructing you to add that wire as a Flyback circuit to provide a safety catch when an pwm Idle air valve is intended for use.
( When I added the thing, I got no clue,..)
I also read that another guy using an MS3x w/ a 1jzVVT removed the r7 clt resistor for proper cam sensing, so I did that too.
(Why I did that, I got no clue)
Don’t much matter, it’s done now.
The fuel pump works on the FP circuit, The EBC circuit works on boost, the VVT circuit works on VVT. The rear water pump is Inj G, the rear cooling fan Nitrous 1. The water meth is inj H, and the front mounted cooling fan is Nitrous 2 ( turns out it wanted to be grounded after all)
Tomorrow I’ll run the tooth logger ,and see if I have a cam signal. If I do, I’ll continue on, and check each injector, then put a spare coil wire on each coil ( one at a time) and see if I have spark. ( I have to go buy a freakin plug, I’m not taking that damn coil bracket off the top of the engine)
If all of that sht checks out,...I’ll put water in the engine, Water in the A2W reservoir, gas in the cell, and WW fluid in the water meth reservoir.
Cause,. If everything checks out, ( And after the master tuner in Florida build me a base tune) it should start.
Today was “ hook it up, and see what you got” testing day.
Its a mixed bag.
Every single accessory worked. Every single solenoid driven device worked save one. The IAC valve.
Cranking the engine revealed that I had no cam signal. Checking continuity on the cam position sensor socket revealed that I had none. Doing the same for the IAC valve confirmed that I had swapped over two wires. The cam position sensor, and the idle air valve. Both had black wires for ground, I must’ve got them mixed,..... but here is the rub.
Even though I had a black wire coming from the IAC valve,... that wire was intended to have 12v routed to it ( Which I did, I just used red shrink wrap at the end to designate it as hot. The problem is that I was sending 12v to a sensor.
Ill know tomorrow if it’s phcked or not. I’m done for the day.
I listened to you @a91what . I added a switched 12v run to the three relays in the trunk. Before testing. I also found the purpose of the mysterious wire...its in the B&G version of the mega manual. Right there, big as sht, instructing you to add that wire as a Flyback circuit to provide a safety catch when an pwm Idle air valve is intended for use.
( When I added the thing, I got no clue,..)
I also read that another guy using an MS3x w/ a 1jzVVT removed the r7 clt resistor for proper cam sensing, so I did that too.
(Why I did that, I got no clue)
Don’t much matter, it’s done now.
The fuel pump works on the FP circuit, The EBC circuit works on boost, the VVT circuit works on VVT. The rear water pump is Inj G, the rear cooling fan Nitrous 1. The water meth is inj H, and the front mounted cooling fan is Nitrous 2 ( turns out it wanted to be grounded after all)
Tomorrow I’ll run the tooth logger ,and see if I have a cam signal. If I do, I’ll continue on, and check each injector, then put a spare coil wire on each coil ( one at a time) and see if I have spark. ( I have to go buy a freakin plug, I’m not taking that damn coil bracket off the top of the engine)
If all of that sht checks out,...I’ll put water in the engine, Water in the A2W reservoir, gas in the cell, and WW fluid in the water meth reservoir.
Cause,. If everything checks out, ( And after the master tuner in Florida build me a base tune) it should start.
Damn, I've been working 12-14 hour days this week and missed this deeply philosophical discussion. First, that wiring under the dash IS a 
ing rat's nest.
But if it works, YOU know what's what, and you can hide it by putting the dash pad back in, then it's perfect. If it cranks and does burnouts on camera, I'll even change my rating froming rat's nest to minor jumble of random wiring. It's probably better than my ing rat's nest of wiring I hid in the fender.
Whether or not Mike ruffle's feathers or even jumps my
for the stupid things I do (or am not doing) to my car, I know that he at least respects the hobby. I also somewhat share his sentiment of doing something different. To me the 20 year old kid that says, Yeah I got a car build. See my 2016 Mustang. I put a cold air kit and a bunch of chrome under the hood.
That is NOT a build! LS Swaps are cool...but I think you can order LS Swapping for Dummies on Amazon now. (I might be doing that myself once I blow up 1 too many 2.3)
But taking a sawzall to a 250 or trying to hop up a 345 IH, or hand making an intake to mount a 4.6 blower on a 5.0 is real hot rodding. When you don't really have a manual to take your hand step by step, that's hot rodding.
ing rat's nest.But if it works, YOU know what's what, and you can hide it by putting the dash pad back in, then it's perfect. If it cranks and does burnouts on camera, I'll even change my rating from
ing rat's nest to minor jumble of random wiring. It's probably better than my ing rat's nest of wiring I hid in the fender.Whether or not Mike ruffle's feathers or even jumps my
for the stupid things I do (or am not doing) to my car, I know that he at least respects the hobby. I also somewhat share his sentiment of doing something different. To me the 20 year old kid that says, Yeah I got a car build. See my 2016 Mustang. I put a cold air kit and a bunch of chrome under the hood. That is NOT a build! LS Swaps are cool...but I think you can order LS Swapping for Dummies on Amazon now. (I might be doing that myself once I blow up 1 too many 2.3)
But taking a sawzall to a 250 or trying to hop up a 345 IH, or hand making an intake to mount a 4.6 blower on a 5.0 is real hot rodding. When you don't really have a manual to take your hand step by step, that's hot rodding.
It’s Saturday afternoon, time for another installment of the “ who gives a fck daily news”.
I have checked everything.
I have spark.
I have a working iac valve.
I have a log that shows a VR sensor that talks to a cam sensor, ( or viceaversa) Which means I have a cam sensor signal.
It took me awhile to figure it out, but I have a fully filled and tested water recirculating system for the A2W intercooler.
( For whatever reason, I had to wire the water pump backwards for it to start moving water).
I have 5 gallons of gas in the cell and a tested fuel system that currently reads static 50psi recirculating.
I have a partially filled cooling system, and neither it, nor the water recirculating system, the oil pan, the trans pan, or the fuel system are leaking
I also have a water temperature reading on TS that says my engine is 180 degrees.
Whether or not removing the R7 “clt” resistor has any impact on gaining a cam signal, it damn sure has affected my sensor reading. I’d just put the thing back in place, had I not snapped it in half trying to pry it off the board.(Where are the freakin radio shacks when you need them?)
I have 12v at my injectors, but they don’t ”click”. I’m thinking I’m too stupid to know where to set them in the test mode, but they don’t do what I’m expecting them to do
Im dead in the water...can’t do dick because of the water temp resistor thing...Stopped cold, in need of a .25 Doo dad.
I have checked everything.
I have spark.
I have a working iac valve.
I have a log that shows a VR sensor that talks to a cam sensor, ( or viceaversa) Which means I have a cam sensor signal.
It took me awhile to figure it out, but I have a fully filled and tested water recirculating system for the A2W intercooler.
( For whatever reason, I had to wire the water pump backwards for it to start moving water).
I have 5 gallons of gas in the cell and a tested fuel system that currently reads static 50psi recirculating.
I have a partially filled cooling system, and neither it, nor the water recirculating system, the oil pan, the trans pan, or the fuel system are leaking
I also have a water temperature reading on TS that says my engine is 180 degrees.
Whether or not removing the R7 “clt” resistor has any impact on gaining a cam signal, it damn sure has affected my sensor reading. I’d just put the thing back in place, had I not snapped it in half trying to pry it off the board.(Where are the freakin radio shacks when you need them?)I have 12v at my injectors, but they don’t ”click”. I’m thinking I’m too stupid to know where to set them in the test mode, but they don’t do what I’m expecting them to do
Im dead in the water...can’t do dick because of the water temp resistor thing...Stopped cold, in need of a .25 Doo dad.
- Mar 7, 2002
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I needed them last year when I wanted to build my own variable-resistance box for testing airbag circuits in cars... Finding the pieces I needed online was harder than just walking into the 'Shack and going to the cabinet I needed and getting it. I miss Radio Shack, still have one of their soldering irons in the toolbox at work, and one of their CB radios waiting on me to install it in the 4Runner for use when on trails. Their
just works (worked?).I give a fck, Mike, but then again, who the fck am I?
I’m always better after a conversation with Steve....
My injectors click. It was all about going to the right place to test them.
Now,...it’s all down to one,......lousy,....25 cent resistor.
ill still have to put the interior back together, bleed the brakes, and put the front tires back on, and attempt to get them both pointing the same direction ( remember, there is a new manual rack there).
Which brings about the tally of the tape. What got changed since October, when I discovered the OG monster engine had died.
The 2jz.The engine got:
New redneck valve job.
Mad mike fabrications custom oil pan and pick up, new Toyota oil pump.Block was decked, and machine honed; New bearings, new rings, new head studs, rod bolts, and main bolts. The VVTI gear was opened, and resealed. The recip assy was balanced. New timing belt, New harmonic balancer. The redneck valve job forced me to re-shim every single valve, which are now all at factory minimum spec. The engine was converted to COP, and has new D585 ( truck) coils.New 95lb/hr injectors.
New intake, New 90mm throttle body, intake converted over to accept ford IAC valve. New exhaust header, new hotside.
The engine required new custom mounts to make it fit.
The turbo:
The same 68mm turbo I had last time remains. This time the car got converted back to the same style A2W intercooler I had in the previous build. ( but had to repurchase) All new cold side. New water reservoir, new heat exchanger using two horizontally fixed radiators, repurposed electric water pump for moving the water front to back. New 60mm waste gate w/ 15# spring. The water meth injection remains.
The trans:
Whew. I spun my wheels for a month before I had a workable solution for adapting the 4r70 to fit the engine. The final solution involved having my old converter modified to fit a 2jz flexplate ( it was also one of the compelling reasons for the engine rebalance).The a340 Toyota trans has a removable bellhousing that I mated to the 4 r70 after cutting the case back to the front pump face so that I could do that, and fabricating a bolted together “coupler“ to mate the two together. I put a new front pump bushing, and seal, and a tail shaft bushing and seal. I had to make a new trans mount.
The trunk:
The trunk got a new 15 fuel cell. That required a the trunk floor be cut away, and a new frame be built to hold the cell, and the reservoir/ pump and radiators that make up the water recirculating system. The fuel cell was modified to allow me to install a drop in 340 lph pump, my tube style fuel level sender, and to stuff it full of cell foam.
The Steering:
I adapted a 2009 Prius EPS steering system to fit the car. That also required I convert the power steering over to manual. I purchased a standard ratio manual rack, and tied the two pieces together with a custom made steering shaft.
And finally,..The rewire.
Everything in the new engine required that I bring the engine into the 21st century. I needed Sequential fuel injection, Variable valve timing, COP ignition, and a PWM idle valve to control it. None of that was there. And that required that I add those circuits.
All of that brings me up to tonight. This revision was a several hundred hour modification. This last month alone since being furloughed, I’ve spent close to 200 hours trying to get it done...200 hours.....Based on my pre-furloughed schedule of 8-10 hours a week relegated to working on this thing, it would’ve been the end of August to get to where I am this evening.
Woot! Woot!
My injectors click. It was all about going to the right place to test them.
Now,...it’s all down to one,......lousy,....25 cent resistor.
ill still have to put the interior back together, bleed the brakes, and put the front tires back on, and attempt to get them both pointing the same direction ( remember, there is a new manual rack there).
Which brings about the tally of the tape. What got changed since October, when I discovered the OG monster engine had died.
The 2jz.The engine got:
New redneck valve job.
Mad mike fabrications custom oil pan and pick up, new Toyota oil pump.Block was decked, and machine honed; New bearings, new rings, new head studs, rod bolts, and main bolts. The VVTI gear was opened, and resealed. The recip assy was balanced. New timing belt, New harmonic balancer. The redneck valve job forced me to re-shim every single valve, which are now all at factory minimum spec. The engine was converted to COP, and has new D585 ( truck) coils.New 95lb/hr injectors.
New intake, New 90mm throttle body, intake converted over to accept ford IAC valve. New exhaust header, new hotside.
The engine required new custom mounts to make it fit.
The turbo:
The same 68mm turbo I had last time remains. This time the car got converted back to the same style A2W intercooler I had in the previous build. ( but had to repurchase) All new cold side. New water reservoir, new heat exchanger using two horizontally fixed radiators, repurposed electric water pump for moving the water front to back. New 60mm waste gate w/ 15# spring. The water meth injection remains.
The trans:
Whew. I spun my wheels for a month before I had a workable solution for adapting the 4r70 to fit the engine. The final solution involved having my old converter modified to fit a 2jz flexplate ( it was also one of the compelling reasons for the engine rebalance).The a340 Toyota trans has a removable bellhousing that I mated to the 4 r70 after cutting the case back to the front pump face so that I could do that, and fabricating a bolted together “coupler“ to mate the two together. I put a new front pump bushing, and seal, and a tail shaft bushing and seal. I had to make a new trans mount.
The trunk:
The trunk got a new 15 fuel cell. That required a the trunk floor be cut away, and a new frame be built to hold the cell, and the reservoir/ pump and radiators that make up the water recirculating system. The fuel cell was modified to allow me to install a drop in 340 lph pump, my tube style fuel level sender, and to stuff it full of cell foam.
The Steering:
I adapted a 2009 Prius EPS steering system to fit the car. That also required I convert the power steering over to manual. I purchased a standard ratio manual rack, and tied the two pieces together with a custom made steering shaft.
And finally,..The rewire.
Everything in the new engine required that I bring the engine into the 21st century. I needed Sequential fuel injection, Variable valve timing, COP ignition, and a PWM idle valve to control it. None of that was there. And that required that I add those circuits.
All of that brings me up to tonight. This revision was a several hundred hour modification. This last month alone since being furloughed, I’ve spent close to 200 hours trying to get it done...200 hours.....Based on my pre-furloughed schedule of 8-10 hours a week relegated to working on this thing, it would’ve been the end of August to get to where I am this evening.
Woot! Woot!
I’m glad to hear it man . My fingers are so crossed for you . This should be bad ass .I’m always better after a conversation with Steve....
My injectors click. It was all about going to the right place to test them.
Now,...it’s all down to one,......lousy,....25 cent resistor.
ill still have to put the interior back together, bleed the brakes, and put the front tires back on, and attempt to get them both pointing the same direction ( remember, there is a new manual rack there).
Which brings about the tally of the tape. What got changed since October, when I discovered the OG monster engine had died.
The 2jz.The engine got:
New redneck valve job.
Mad mike fabrications custom oil pan and pick up, new Toyota oil pump.Block was decked, and machine honed; New bearings, new rings, new head studs, rod bolts, and main bolts. The VVTI gear was opened, and resealed. The recip assy was balanced. New timing belt, New harmonic balancer. The redneck valve job forced me to re-shim every single valve, which are now all at factory minimum spec. The engine was converted to COP, and has new D585 ( truck) coils.New 95lb/hr injectors.
New intake, New 90mm throttle body, intake converted over to accept ford IAC valve. New exhaust header, new hotside.
The engine required new custom mounts to make it fit.
The turbo:
The same 68mm turbo I had last time remains. This time the car got converted back to the same style A2W intercooler I had in the previous build. ( but had to repurchase) All new cold side. New water reservoir, new heat exchanger using two horizontally fixed radiators, repurposed electric water pump for moving the water front to back. New 60mm waste gate w/ 15# spring. The water meth injection remains.
The trans:
Whew. I spun my wheels for a month before I had a workable solution for adapting the 4r70 to fit the engine. The final solution involved having my old converter modified to fit a 2jz flexplate ( it was also one of the compelling reasons for the engine rebalance).The a340 Toyota trans has a removable bellhousing that I mated to the 4 r70 after cutting the case back to the front pump face so that I could do that, and fabricating a bolted together “coupler“ to mate the two together. I put a new front pump bushing, and seal, and a tail shaft bushing and seal. I had to make a new trans mount.
The trunk:
The trunk got a new 15 fuel cell. That required a the trunk floor be cut away, and a new frame be built to hold the cell, and the reservoir/ pump and radiators that make up the water recirculating system. The fuel cell was modified to allow me to install a drop in 340 lph pump, my tube style fuel level sender, and to stuff it full of cell foam.
The Steering:
I adapted a 2009 Prius EPS steering system to fit the car. That also required I convert the power steering over to manual. I purchased a standard ratio manual rack, and tied the two pieces together with a custom made steering shaft.
And finally,..The rewire.
Everything in the new engine required that I bring the engine into the 21st century. I needed Sequential fuel injection, Variable valve timing, COP ignition, and a PWM idle valve to control it. None of that was there. And that required that I add those circuits.
All of that brings me up to tonight. This revision was a several hundred hour modification. This last month alone since being furloughed, I’ve spent close to 200 hours trying to get it done...200 hours.....Based on my pre-furloughed schedule of 8-10 hours a week relegated to working on this thing, it would’ve been the end of August to get to where I am this evening.
Woot! Woot!
that’s weird it won’t just let you re scale the sensor . Holley will let you scale it and it’s done .
Why is the temp sensor keeping you from cranking the damn thing? Sure warm up fueling adjustments will be off, but the thing should start and run.
Ms let's you scale it to whatever as well. The resistor he removed is the bias resistor, basically it's the voltage pullup for the thermistor circuit.
Circuit no workie without it.
Hey Mike, put it back!
What's that? Oh nobody will miss Radio Shack? THIS is exactly when you miss it, because Amazon is so busy delivering a$$ wipe to hoarders that Prime 1 or 2 day shipping has turned into 2 week shipping. Funny thing is my car insurance is giving partial refunds, but I am sure as hell that Amazon aint gonna refund no Prime Membership monies.
I couldn’t find a stinkin 2.49ko resistor in this city.
( I may as well be living in bumfck)
That forced me to improvise. After a phone call to Steve, he confirmed that I could put two together to get to the value I needed.
The supplier I got them from had a 2.2ko, and they had a 300 ohm. Tying those two together produced 2.47ko. ( they were rated at 2% variance)
After installing them on the board, I put the ecu back together, and tested it.
First, I took the infrared thermometer I had and pointed it at the engine,........69 degrees.
Then I keyed the car, let the ECU sync to TS, and the water temp registered at........69 degrees.
This thing is ready to start.
I need a base tune.
On a separate note, I bled the brakes. It took for-freakin-ever to get fluid through to the calipers. once completely bled to where clean fluid was coming out of each caliper, the brake pedal was still kinda....meh.
Not knowing what else I could do, I bought a pressure testing kit to check line pressure at each caliper. It cost a whole whopping 50 bucks, so I’m not too worried about spending money on a gauge that’ll tell me that I need to replace something in my brake system. I want these things to work like Power brakes, it’s important that I be able to slow this bitch down.
( I may as well be living in bumfck)
That forced me to improvise. After a phone call to Steve, he confirmed that I could put two together to get to the value I needed.
The supplier I got them from had a 2.2ko, and they had a 300 ohm. Tying those two together produced 2.47ko. ( they were rated at 2% variance)
After installing them on the board, I put the ecu back together, and tested it.
First, I took the infrared thermometer I had and pointed it at the engine,........69 degrees.
Then I keyed the car, let the ECU sync to TS, and the water temp registered at........69 degrees.
This thing is ready to start.
I need a base tune.
On a separate note, I bled the brakes. It took for-freakin-ever to get fluid through to the calipers. once completely bled to where clean fluid was coming out of each caliper, the brake pedal was still kinda....meh.
Not knowing what else I could do, I bought a pressure testing kit to check line pressure at each caliper. It cost a whole whopping 50 bucks, so I’m not too worried about spending money on a gauge that’ll tell me that I need to replace something in my brake system. I want these things to work like Power brakes, it’s important that I be able to slow this bitch down.
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So, I guess it was a good idea that I added the one page summary of the past 6 months for those “ few individuals“...?
I forgot to include it,...or subliminally it must’ve seemed like a backwards move to me, and my brain blocked it from my memory.
- Mar 2, 2015
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My pedal felt crazy until I adjusted the manual prop valve. I really like the brake set up I have so far. No manual brakes for me. This little Hella brake booster pump makes a huge difference.
I haven’t been following too closely on the site since I’m doing my house and car. Hard to remember everything you’ve done!
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