I was just reading your thread from two years ago about restoring/painting the one pony wheel before working on the cobra wheels. Very helpful!
Progress Thread Finally got my first Fox Body - 1988 GT
- Thread starter DudeStang
- Start date
I’m sure there are threads on this and I will be digging around but anyone have any suggestions on tires? I have all seasons on the stock turbine wheels so I want to get a summer/performance tire for the pony wheels. Something that I can use for spirited street driving but also take for the occasional track day, autocross, or test and tune when things start opening back up.
I’ve been leaning toward the BFG G-Force Sport Comp 2 but I’m open to other suggestions from folks with more experience with these cars. I have the all season version of the BFGs on my 2014 and they’ve served me pretty well.
I’ve been leaning toward the BFG G-Force Sport Comp 2 but I’m open to other suggestions from folks with more experience with these cars. I have the all season version of the BFGs on my 2014 and they’ve served me pretty well.
I have always liked BFG tires. I plan on going with the G force 2’s as well, but all season. If there is ever a winter I’m not working on this, I want to be able to drive it on a nice day. I hear the “summer” tires get too slippery in colder weather.
I have the G-force Sport Comp 2's on my car. Very sticky tire and I've gotten good traction with it for street driving. No idea how it does in the wet. Be careful though because when temps start getting below 40 degrees, they lose a lot of their grip. You'll want to take it easy. That's usually around the time I park the car anyway.
Thanks. Yeah, I feel you on wanting to still be able to drive the car in colder weather. That's why I keep two sets of wheels and tires for the 2014 and I'd like to do the same for the Fox.
Thanks. Totally makes sense and I have been thinking about the temperature dropping. Ideally, I'd love to have the Pony wheels with quality all seasons and then a set of 17s with summer/performance tires but I already have the turbine wheels with tires that are pretty much brand new all seasons. Also, I've seen enough turbine wheels to know they aren't the easiest wheels to sell, even with tires. My wife will kill me if I end up with five sets of wheels and tires in the garage between both cars, lol.
It probably doesn't make sense to put summer tires on the car right as we're starting winter. I also don't want to buy new tires and then just have them sit in the garage until spring. Decisions decisions...
I already shared the news on the wheels but I made a short video update on that acquisition + a couple other plans/updates for both Mustangs.
View: https://youtu.be/JaRmutlLjZk
Last night, after driving the car for a bit, I recorded a little video under the car. This is just a screenshot from that recording but I think it is safe to assume that a steady leak coming from this area (the thin line coming down is the leak, mid-drip) is a rear main seal leak.
I'm not super confident in my ability to drop the transmission by myself and I don't have a trans jack yet. Also, given the colder temperatures, I'm not too keen on spending a lot of time on the garage floor over the next few months. I have read through a few threads where some folks say oil leaks aren't the end of the world and to just keep an eye on oil levels until it's time to do a few things that can all be done at once, while dropping the transmission (rear main seal, clutch/flywheel, pinion seal), BUT considering that I would like to try and use the car for some track days in the summer when *fingers crossed * things start opening up....I'd like to get the leaks addressed sooner than later. I have tried to contact a local shop that appears to do a lot of work on Mustangs to see about a quote for that work but haven't heard anything back yet.
A friend of mine is coming to visit this weekend and we're planning to try and replace the power steering pump on Saturday since the weather is supposed to be slightly warmer than it has been.
I still haven't made a decision on tires yet.
View: https://youtu.be/JaRmutlLjZk
Last night, after driving the car for a bit, I recorded a little video under the car. This is just a screenshot from that recording but I think it is safe to assume that a steady leak coming from this area (the thin line coming down is the leak, mid-drip) is a rear main seal leak.
I'm not super confident in my ability to drop the transmission by myself and I don't have a trans jack yet. Also, given the colder temperatures, I'm not too keen on spending a lot of time on the garage floor over the next few months. I have read through a few threads where some folks say oil leaks aren't the end of the world and to just keep an eye on oil levels until it's time to do a few things that can all be done at once, while dropping the transmission (rear main seal, clutch/flywheel, pinion seal), BUT considering that I would like to try and use the car for some track days in the summer when *fingers crossed * things start opening up....I'd like to get the leaks addressed sooner than later. I have tried to contact a local shop that appears to do a lot of work on Mustangs to see about a quote for that work but haven't heard anything back yet.
A friend of mine is coming to visit this weekend and we're planning to try and replace the power steering pump on Saturday since the weather is supposed to be slightly warmer than it has been.
I still haven't made a decision on tires yet.
Considering tires do have a finite lifespan, I would wait to put them on until you are ready to drive. Besides, don't you need time to refinish them?
As for too many sets of wheels and tires?? I have three sets of wheels for my car, plus I just ordered another set. In my defense, one set is a crappy set with old tires that I throw on for winter storage.
I think at this point, many fox bodies have some sort of rear main seal leak to some degree unless the motor's been freshly rebuilt.
When you do change it, grab a seal and the Felpro sleeve and install tool. You might not need the seal, but when you get the old one, inspect the crank for signs of a wear groove forming. If you see one, install a sleeve otherwise a seal without one will probably leak right away.
With everything you’ve done...... you can easily do the transmission removal/install.
Trans jack not needed. I balanced it on a regular floor jack, had my daughter operate the handle to raise it up and I got it in place to bolt back on. If the car was higher in the air, I could have lifted it in, but it was tough to maneuver. Don’t pay for labor on work you can do yourself!!
Trans jack not needed. I balanced it on a regular floor jack, had my daughter operate the handle to raise it up and I got it in place to bolt back on. If the car was higher in the air, I could have lifted it in, but it was tough to maneuver. Don’t pay for labor on work you can do yourself!!
Dropping a trans by yourself with a floor jack the first time is a tough job, and putting it back in ain't no picnic. It can be done but it's tough don't kid yourself. I've done several times.
Get a driveshaft yoke or a plug for the trans to keep the mess to a minimum.
Get a driveshaft yoke or a plug for the trans to keep the mess to a minimum.
First time I did it myself, I used the floor jack method. The trans slipped, I went to catch it, and it fell to the ground and crushed my hand into the pavement. Ended up with an ER trip and 5 stitches. Still have the scar on my hand to remember that by.
Latest time, I went to harbor freight and bough the trans Jack. Did it alone and it was much easier and trouble free.
If oyu go with the first method, have someone help. Those trans weight 75lbs or so but it's awkward.
Also, make sure you rent the PS tool and have it handy before you attempt the PS pump swap.
You're right. I won't be buying the tires until I'm ready to start using them. No need to rush.
I'm going to give this a try.
I appreciate the vote of confidence, haha. I am tempted to try it but I'd definitely prefer to have at least one other person around to help and to have a transmission jack.
Thanks. Yeah, I would be less intimidated if I had a lift and a transmission jack/pole jack.
Geeeeez...that sounds rough. Yeah, I saw some videos of people carrying them and I'm sure I could do it but I would prefer to play it safe and not crush any part of myself in the process.
I called a couple of shops yesterday. One shop that was more of a performance/tuning place - the guy seemed pretty familiar with Fox Mustangs and they quoted me minimum of $625 to drop trans and replace rear main seal. A clutch and flywheel would be another $400ish. The second shop, more of a general repair shop with a lot of good reviews - they told me just under $1,100 to replace the clutch and rear main seal, including the cost of an OEM clutch (they said they won't install an aftermarket clutch that I brought to them).
I spent a lot less on wheels than I was planning to so I could use that money to have the rear main seal and clutch replaced but it is tempting to try and do it in my garage and get the learning experience of removing the transmission. I'll have to think about it.
- Jul 12, 2017
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It's not terribly hard to do. You figure you are probably saying $750-1K on labor if you do it yourself. A RMS is $25, a sleeve another $20, the install tool $10. Spring for some ARP flywheel bolts for $25ish and a clutch kit for whatever you want to spend.
Maybe add a few bucks for new driveshaft bolts, and the flywheel will need to be a decision you make when you inspect. Resurface, or replace. I believe a new cast flywheel from Ford is $170. Resurfacing might run you $75ish.
Plus, you can clean and degrease the underside and get an overall inspection of the car.
Maybe add a few bucks for new driveshaft bolts, and the flywheel will need to be a decision you make when you inspect. Resurface, or replace. I believe a new cast flywheel from Ford is $170. Resurfacing might run you $75ish.
Plus, you can clean and degrease the underside and get an overall inspection of the car.
Steel1
Mustang Master
- Mar 2, 2015
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You could bring it to my house and I could help you with the transmission and rear main seal. No need to pay someone...you're Stangnet family now. We are in the same geographical area. I just put my tko back in. No jack...just slid it on my chest and benched it up...hit the clutch with my left foot...and shook the the transmission with both hands. Went right in no problem.
Boostedpimp
20+ Year Stangneter 
Hardest part honestly for me is getting the bolts loosened up on the driveshaft.. and if you have a factory mid pipe you'll enjoy dealing with the rusty exhaust bolts otherwise just take your time and drink beer.
