Progress Thread “Rising from Ashes 10” 04 Terminator build thread

For the rubber moulding around the front windshield, did you just put tape under it to pull it up and out of the way?
On this phase I slid paint sticks behind the molding then taped it up to make sure there is no way to hit it with the DA. When you paint your paint supplier can give you a special
Tape that goes behind the molding and lifts it up off the roof to paint under. Altho I usually just pull my glass because its still a cleaner job
 
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Metal work time. Previous painter just filled all this with body filler and never did any metal work. Which is why the filler showed tbeu the paint and had the rings where it shrunk in. Typical. But I know how to fix that.
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I remember when I first got into cars ( early 80s ) people wanted as little filler in their cars as possible.

Fast forward to the custom car reality TV age and it seemed that every show car was completely skimmed
in filler prior to paint.

I imagine advances in the chemical make-up of body filler has made it more forgiving but what's the current
pros opinion ?

I know thickness is a major consideration when applying filler.
 
There is a reason I like to see a restored car a couple years after it was done, stuff like that body filler in the roof sometimes don't show up for a while, it took about a year for the blems to start showing up on my convertible.
 
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I remember when I first got into cars ( early 80s ) people wanted as little filler in their cars as possible.

Fast forward to the custom car reality TV age and it seemed that every show car was completely skimmed
in filler prior to paint.

I imagine advances in the chemical make-up of body filler has made it more forgiving but what's the current
pros opinion ?

I know thickness is a major consideration when applying filler.
Thats a great question. Now days most high end Restro cars get each panel skim coated and blocked panel to panel. Or a lot of shops use this super thick primer that goes outta a 2.5 tip. But the standard is the same now as 1980. Filler no thicker than 1/16 inch. Period. I could skim coat the whole roof in filler and block it down and still have less than they did in that giant dent.
 
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On this phase I slid paint sticks behind the molding then taped it up to make sure there is no way to hit it with the DA. When you paint your paint supplier can give you a special
Tape that goes behind the molding and lifts it up off the roof to paint under. Altho I usually just pull my glass because its still a cleaner job
Found this tape on Amazon - looks like what you're talking about.

Amazon product ASIN B000P18N6WView: https://www.amazon.com/3M-06349-50-8-Trim-Masking/dp/B000P18N6W?th=1
 
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Here is the roof with only metal work. No filler.. no chance it’ll skrink and look like crap in 2 yrs….and no heavy primer. Just 3 thin coats of epoxy which is not used to fill but rather as a direct to metal seal. Next. Blocking, body and 2k primer
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Here is the roof with only metal work. No filler.. no chance it’ll skrink and look like crap in 2 yrs….and no heavy primer. Just 3 thin coats of epoxy which is not used to fill but rather as a direct to metal seal. Next. Blocking, body and 2k primer
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Kind of looks cool with the black top. Imagine the hood, top, and deck lid all black. Might be a cool paint design:shrug:
 
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Time to work the hood.
It blocked out pretty good except the area where they had done filler work. I ground that junk out and did it correctly and 2k primer down. Also smoothing the underside of course
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Tackling the doors and front bumper next. I’ll pull each piece off the car and work individually until I’m satisfied….I know. Then I’ll bolt everything back together and block panel to panel.
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