I came across this fox body for sale on my way home from work. I called the guy and he said he wants 7k cad(5400 usd). Just wondering if you guys could let me know if its a good buy or not
Thinking about buying this car
- Thread starter Robertp1984
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Looks nice on the outside... mostly. back window is down in the rain.
No way I'd pay $7k for that car. I'd be in the $4k range.
No way I'd pay $7k for that car. I'd be in the $4k range.
Canadian…
I’ve seen worse. With that said I’ve seen better. Need more pics to really determine how rough it is. I see a rusted out pic, but I can’t see wheee it is. The engine looks like every gasket on that motor is dry rotted and leaking.
At least it’s a 5-spd, but tbh I’d rather pay another $1-2k on a better car. You’ll spend that fixing/cleaning this one up, especially if you can’t do the work yourself
On a positive note, all that oil probably preserved the car. However, check those strut towers. If there are holes or it looks soft…walk unless you can get the car dirt cheap and do all the repairs yourself
WhiteCobra95
Mod Dude
- May 2, 2006
- 570
- 145
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Some of that underbody rust looks pretty intense. You might want to give it a really good once-over if you're not into body work. It also looks like the engine needs some new gaskets and seals after a good cleaning.
Yeah, I agree 5400 USD would garner a closer look.
To clarify, Ford could not use the GT badge 'cause of copyright issues (I think it was copyright things) so they called it a 'cobra' instead.
To clarify, Ford could not use the GT badge 'cause of copyright issues (I think it was copyright things) so they called it a 'cobra' instead.
- Mar 2, 2015
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Not worth anywhere near 5kUS. Only worth about 1.5 to 2k tops around here. Car has a bunch of issues. I can also tell it wasn't well taken care of either.
If that car is worth 5k then I should have no problem getting 20k for mine.
If that car is worth 5k then I should have no problem getting 20k for mine.
pats91
15 Year Member
I agree with the others, RUN AWAY. If the outside of the engine looks like that, I can only guess how bad the inside is. I can understand a few leaks, but that is truly awful.
Canadian cars were GT's. The issue was in the US, Ford could not use the Cobra branding. ALL Canadian GT's 85-92 (not sure about 93's because of the actual Cobra model) had the Cobra branding with a decal on the hatch or trunk driver side. That was the only marking speaking to Cobra and there was no performance difference to our US cousins.
My OEM hatch (at least what was left of it).
In the OP's pics, the most important one is the one that is blurry. It looks like a rusted hole somewhere.
As a Canadian as well, I have seen many Foxbody's around here that are over priced. The problem is everyone thinks their car is a #1 car, most are #3's or #4's with some creeping into #2's, yet all want the #1 pricing.
Below are the descriptions and values (in Canadian dollars) for the 1990 GT Hatch Valuation I did on Hagerty's website for my car last year at this time.
All dollar amounts listed by condition and as an average are in Canadian dollars, and exclude any applicable provincial taxes.
#1 Concours $27,300
Condition #1 vehicles are the best in the world. The visual image is of the best vehicle, in the right colors, driving onto the lawn at
the finest concours. Perfectly clean, the vehicle has been groomed down to the tire treads. Painted and chromed surfaces are
mirror-like. Dust and dirt are banned, and materials used are correct and superbly fitted. The one word description for #1 vehicles
is "concours."
#2 Excellent $17,500
#2 vehicles could win a local or regional show. They can be former #1 vehicles that have been driven or have aged. Seasoned
observers will have to look closely for flaws, but will be able to find some not seen by the general public. The paint, chrome,
glass and finishes will all appear as excellent. No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate
from the engine. The vehicle will drive as a new vehicle of its era would. The one word description for #2 vehicles is "excellent."
#3 Good $8,500
#3 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a
fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts.
These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will
not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle.
#4 Fair $5,700
#4 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield
might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where
applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non-stock
additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4
Obviously, prices have changed year over year, but I feel the descriptions of each grade are accurate. Anyone can go on Hagerty or others websites and get valuations of what these companies believe are current and accurate prices. Each person needs to do their own homework.
My OEM hatch (at least what was left of it).
In the OP's pics, the most important one is the one that is blurry. It looks like a rusted hole somewhere.
As a Canadian as well, I have seen many Foxbody's around here that are over priced. The problem is everyone thinks their car is a #1 car, most are #3's or #4's with some creeping into #2's, yet all want the #1 pricing.
Below are the descriptions and values (in Canadian dollars) for the 1990 GT Hatch Valuation I did on Hagerty's website for my car last year at this time.
All dollar amounts listed by condition and as an average are in Canadian dollars, and exclude any applicable provincial taxes.
#1 Concours $27,300
Condition #1 vehicles are the best in the world. The visual image is of the best vehicle, in the right colors, driving onto the lawn at
the finest concours. Perfectly clean, the vehicle has been groomed down to the tire treads. Painted and chromed surfaces are
mirror-like. Dust and dirt are banned, and materials used are correct and superbly fitted. The one word description for #1 vehicles
is "concours."
#2 Excellent $17,500
#2 vehicles could win a local or regional show. They can be former #1 vehicles that have been driven or have aged. Seasoned
observers will have to look closely for flaws, but will be able to find some not seen by the general public. The paint, chrome,
glass and finishes will all appear as excellent. No excessive smoke will be seen on startup, no unusual noises will emanate
from the engine. The vehicle will drive as a new vehicle of its era would. The one word description for #2 vehicles is "excellent."
#3 Good $8,500
#3 vehicles could possess some, but not all of the issues of a #4 vehicle, but they will be balanced by other factors such as a
fresh paint job or a new, correct interior where applicable. #3 vehicles drive and run well, but might have some incorrect parts.
These vehicles are not used for daily transportation but are ready for a long tour without excuses, and the casual passerby will
not find any visual flaws. "Good" is the one word description of a #3 vehicle.
#4 Fair $5,700
#4 vehicles are daily drivers, with flaws visible to the naked eye. The chrome might have pitting or scratches, the windshield
might be chipped. Paintwork is imperfect, and perhaps the body has a minor dent. Split seams or a cracked dash, where
applicable, might be present. No major parts are missing, but the wheels could differ from the originals, or other non-stock
additions might be present. A #4 vehicle can also be a deteriorated restoration. "Fair" is the one word that describes a #4
Obviously, prices have changed year over year, but I feel the descriptions of each grade are accurate. Anyone can go on Hagerty or others websites and get valuations of what these companies believe are current and accurate prices. Each person needs to do their own homework.
Thanks guys, im definetly staying away from this car, not even sure why i thought about it tbh. I guess because prices here in canada are so ridiculous and because its the first one under 8k that caught my eye. The worst thing in canada is that if you find one with no rust issues, its selling for around 15-20k.
It might be diff
That goes the same for guys in the US.
It cost 550 and a two week wait to have the Monster shipped 1100 miles to me from southern AZ. The only thing rusted on that car was a small area in the drivers footwell where moisture got between welds. After living in the Midwest for 10 years, and having to settle for the rusted out crap that rolled around back then, and especially now that everything is visible through the internet, there’d be no way i’d buy a rusty, hagged out project just because that’s all there was to choose from in my region.
It might be too difficult ( if not impossible) to buy a car from some southern US region, and drive it back into Canada, but at 15k just for for a decent version, It’d be worth the plane ticket, and the 3 day drive to get it back.
That goes the same for guys in the US.
It cost 550 and a two week wait to have the Monster shipped 1100 miles to me from southern AZ. The only thing rusted on that car was a small area in the drivers footwell where moisture got between welds. After living in the Midwest for 10 years, and having to settle for the rusted out crap that rolled around back then, and especially now that everything is visible through the internet, there’d be no way i’d buy a rusty, hagged out project just because that’s all there was to choose from in my region.
Boostedpimp
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
If you wanted it as a beater to cruise in then i'd use the crusty suspension parts and gasket failures to your advantage and get it cheap.. Do the maintenance and a few gasket and cruise it providing it runs and shifts well but the looks of that lower rad support would tell me she's got even more problems then it would be worth to deal with. So I would probably walk away unless it was stupid cheap
91TwighlightGT
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
I'd plan a one way flight to SoCal, buy a rust free car, and drive it back. I've dealt with plenty of rust, and it can be difficult and time consuming.
Not SoCal... Arizona, Texas, New Mexico, Arkansas, Missouri, Utah, or [Northern] California desert (if you must go there)...
If you find and buy one from a dealership, you might get it shipped even cheaper
(they generally have their own 'thing' setup) $500-ish isn't bad at all in the scheme of things.Southern California is one of those places where everyone thinks that the turd laying in their yard is a genuine diamond.
91TwighlightGT
Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
True.Not SoCal... Arizona, Texas, New Mexico, Arkansas, Missouri, Utah, or [Northern] California desert (if you must go there)...
If you find and buy one from a dealership, you might get it shipped even cheaper
Southern California is one of those places where everyone thinks that the turd laying in their yard is a genuine diamond.
As a Missouri resident, you'd have to be pretty selective here.
You probably won't find what you're looking for on Craigslist, that's for sure. You gotta find the low/non rust yard art.
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