The alternator is an upgraded 3G setup. I'll disconnect the alternator wiring and see if it has a measurable effect on the milliamp draw. Although I'm not sure if the 3G has the same potential to create these problems as the stock alternator.
50 to 85 milliamps is one spec for draw on a car like yours 200 is more like a new lincoln with 5 modules and a radio
Okay thanks. So, if I have the battery connected, and I begin with full battery 12.6v, after 14 days, what voltage reading would still be considered acceptable?John,
Then your battery should hold for 10 to 14 days without a tender
And if it does not then the battery gets replaced even if it is a week old
That the battery has not lost a lot of volts sitting there is not the same as a load test that helps see if it has any CCA or reserve power. At that low level of drain, I suspect you have two problems: 1. A weak battery 2. A small drain.So after a day of sitting it was down to 12.61V. About 8-10 hours later it was down to 12.55V. About a day after that it is at 12.5V. I will check one more time tomorrow morning, but it looks like it has more or less settled in around 12.5V if it only lost 0.05V in a day of sitting. So while it may not be perfect, I think the battery is at least decent, certainly good enough for starting a car in warm weather at least.
So I will keep looking around, mainly at the immobilizer and keyless entry/alarm system to see what I can figure out. Those areas seem to be the most likely to be causing this drain I think.
Classic failure example +1 for InterstateThat the battery has not lost a lot of volts sitting there is not the same as a load test that helps see if it has any CCA or reserve power. At that low level of drain, I suspect you have two problems: 1. A weak battery 2. A small drain.
Please do the following:
Charge it up, hook it up, and get it to the FLAPS or Interstate battery dealer where the battery can be load tested and the charging system verified good.
The last battery I replaced in a car was charging up fine, but after sitting for 4 days would read good voltage, AND did not have enough amps to do more than make a horrible, repetitive clicking noise under the hood. It would charge up and run again. But it would do the same dying thing if parked. When “cranked” on a full charge with the tester, the load would pull the voltage down to 8.?v and it rebounded only partially. They warranted it and it’s great now.
Yeah, Interstate batteries are just horrible. That's why I have one in everything I own, well cept the toyota, that cheap ass battery is still working.Classic failure example +1 for Interstate
I hope punctuation was missing and 007 was agreeing with me.Yeah, Interstate batteries are just horrible. That's why I have one in everything I own, well cept the toyota, that cheap ass battery is still working.
Dealerships, I get mine from the GMC dealership down the street.I found the privately owned FLAPS that sells Interstate batteries. I asked about a good battery for my Merc. For an Interstate battery, 850 CCA, three year flat warranty, $165. No more prorated extended warranties.
The local Napa store’s batteries are also flat rate warranties.
@Noobz347 and @General karthief etc. where are you getting the 7 year (84 month) warranty batteries now???