Where to Buy a Motor Similar to the GT-40 Crate

93gtmustang

5 Year Member
Oct 21, 2006
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Well my mechanic did a compression test on my old Ford Racing Crate Motor and it wasn't good.
It served me well 15 years drag racing. Here's the link from the one I have.
Ford Performance Parts M-6007-XB3M (summitracing.com)
Does anyone know of any companies that make something very similar that I could just drop in my car. I'm looking for something in the $4000.00 - $6000.00 range. Long block. I am still using the stock computer efi with 24lb injectors Edelbrock Performer 5.0 Intake. Thanks for any help! I appreciate it!
 
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Well my mechanic did a compression test on my old Ford Racing Crate Motor and it wasn't good.
It served me well 15 years drag racing. Here's the link from the one I have.
Ford Performance Parts M-6007-XB3M (summitracing.com)
Does anyone know of any companies that make something very similar that I could just drop in my car. I'm looking for something in the $4000.00 - $6000.00 range. Long block. I am still using the stock computer efi with 24lb injectors Edelbrock Performer 5.0 Intake. Thanks for any help! I appreciate it!
Why not rebuild the one you've got? Sounds like you're happy with the components. You could throw a mild stroker kit into it :O_o:
 
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Thanks for the replys!
I don't have the experience or tools for a rebuild. I don't think it's worth it. So I would be looking for a Long Block similiar to mine, EFI compatible, same horse power so I could have it just dropped in with out changing injectors, MAF sensor etc.. I have SFI Ford Racing Balancer, pulleys, Intake.
This is alot more than I want to spend but, I could have it dropped in with out having to change anything and use it N/A. And add a supercharger in the future if wanted! https://accessories.ford.com/products/302-ci-340-hp-boss-crate-engine-with-e-cam
 
When I was doing an engine for my mustang project, my first direction was to do the same thing as in buying a NEW crate engine.....
Of course I have been out of this for quite a while and the last experience I had was with Chevy 350 crate motor long blocks that were BRAND NEW ( weren't they called " Powermaster" ) that started at $999 if I recall......LOL.... WOW was what I said after looking at Ford " options" which are far fewer than a 350 chevy.....
I did the Explorer/Mountaineer 302, as I wanted a roller cam engine, and the second shock was with the machine shop costs.... WOW again...
ANY way you do it ( correctly) is going to be expensive.....
 
In stock these days maybe a blueprint or atk dealer for a basic long block or drop in though it won't be set up for a fox body so old parts would need to be swapped... Pan, brackets etc..
Thanks for the reply! Are you talking NHRA stock class? I am just running ET bracket Pro class foot brake. So I think you are saying that the Blueprint and ATK are not a drop in engine like the Ford racing one I had right? thanks!
 
Minimum you are talking g a 10/10 turn on the crank, reuse the rods if they are within spec, new pistons, and machine the block. Have the machine shop rework the heads with at minimum a valve job, valve seals, and new springs. From there it’s rings, bearing, and gaskets.

Have you talked to any of the guys you race with? There have to be a couple of reputable builders in that group or that they can recommend. I would think you can control the costs and keep it under $6K this way and get a very nice 306.
 
I found these guys and they are pretty close by. https://crebengines.com/
So,I bought a Creb 331 back around 2019-20. To show you how much stuff has went up since then, I paid $2700 for my 331 stroker. I have mixed feelings about them. The engine was supposed to be able to handle boost,however,I cracked the ringlands on two pistons. Basically,the owner pretty much told me to pound sand. It happens,stuff breaks. But,when the ring gap on the top ring was .020, that just wasn't enough. So, I replaced the pistons myself and had the block re-honed. I'm not trying to steer you away from them,however. I believe you could get by with a basic rebuild on your current engine for much cheaper.
 
Thanks for the reply! Are you talking NHRA stock class? I am just running ET bracket Pro class foot brake. So I think you are saying that the Blueprint and ATK are not a drop in engine like the Ford racing one I had right? thanks!
Looks like blueprint finaly updated there site. But for what most shops are asking for long blocks these day I would probably pull the pin on this one if you just after the performance of the old frpp engine... There aluminum heads and new aftermarket 4 bolt block for $5k and a decent warranty. Swap you pan, front cover and every thing else over.... Keep you old engine, parts from it are worth a decent amount

 
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Looks like blueprint finaly updated there site. But for what most shops are asking for long blocks these day I would probably pull the pin on this one if you just after the performance of the old frpp engine... There aluminum heads and new aftermarket 4 bolt block for $5k and a decent warranty. Swap you pan, front cover and every thing else over.... Keep you old engine, parts from it are worth a decent amount

What turned me away from a build like this was the use of Cast pistons.......
 
What turned me away from a build like this was the use of Cast pistons.......
The old ford racing crate 302 he's replacing used a production block, crank, rods and cast pistons with gt40x heads.... I wouldn't be worried about it I had the same frpp engine in a gt I had a decade ago that saw its fair share of nitrous with a 150 shot. I'm just going off current prices, what's available to be shipped now and ready to swap in. The heads are on par with the old x302. There blueprints version of the afr enforcer casting. Infact there the ones who brought that dart clone to market a decade ago. the block would probably be the last one he ever needs, its on par with the dart shp and why I would go for that over the rest. Where the other ready to ship crate long blocks in the current price range us a stock block and blue print stands behind there warranty.

Personally I'd probably just refresh the old engine with new ring/ bearings and rebuild the old heads with a decent valve job if its just down a bit on compression and he's happy with the performance. Leak down would tell ya if its the heads or rings but after 15 years a refresh isn't asking much. But sounds like covid took its toll on machine shops in his area. I know a lot of shop that closed its doors in the last few years from it.
 
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