Where to Buy a Motor Similar to the GT-40 Crate

[93gtmustang]

Looks like blueprint finaly updated there site. But for what most shops are asking for long blocks these day I would probably pull the pin on this one if you just after the performance of the old frpp engine... There aluminum heads and new aftermarket 4 bolt block for $5k and a decent warranty. Swap you pan, front cover and every thing else over.... Keep you old engine, parts from it are worth a decent amount

BluePrint Engines 302CI Cruiser Crate Engine | Small Block Ford Style | Longblock | Aluminum Heads | Roller Cam | Rear Sump Pan

BluePrint Engines 302 c.i. small block Ford style crate engine - longblock. Includes 30 month / 50,000 warranty & BPE Dyno Promise. Part #: BP302RCT

blueprintengines.com

Yeah that engine looks decent! 4 bolt even! Would I be able to run factory computer EFI? I would have to go up to 30lb. injectors and a calibrated MAF. I was looking, Pro-M only had for fender wall CAI. I'm running stock air box, that's pretty much the same right? It is a fenderwall cold? I would like to use my Edelbrock Performer 5.0 EFI intake. Blueprint recommends carbureted. Swap the pan. Blueprint is rear sump. Will that work with my pan? Then I would have to go to a V-belt conversion. The kit on Blueprint Engines is $1,100.00 yikes!
Thanks for the help!

 

[AeroCoupe]

Use your upper and lower intakes, swap your pan and pickup tube over to the new motor, swap your timing chain cover over to the new motor (you need it for the reverse rotation water pump that you currently have for the serpentine belt set up), and then swap all the accessories over and drop it in.

If your motor has roller rockers you may want to look at swapping those over. I would also look at swapping valve covers over if yours are aluminum and not the stamped steel ones which appear to be what they supply.

Call Pro-M and get the right MAF if you are going to run a calibrated MAF.

 

[rednotch]

Yeah that engine looks decent! 4 bolt even! Would I be able to run factory computer EFI? I would have to go up to 30lb. injectors and a calibrated MAF. I was looking, Pro-M only had for fender wall CAI. I'm running stock air box, that's pretty much the same right? It is a fenderwall cold? I would like to use my Edelbrock Performer 5.0 EFI intake. Blueprint recommends carbureted. Swap the pan. Blueprint is rear sump. Will that work with my pan? Then I would have to go to a V-belt conversion. The kit on Blueprint Engines is $1,100.00 yikes!
Thanks for the help!

There rear sump pan looks like a stock replacement fox body pan but those are genetic pics... Call and ask if it will work in a foxbody or if they have a pan that will for that block they can substitute. Most aftermarket blocks won't clear a stock mustang oil pan, I don't know what your old one had... Rest you just swap over from the old engine and buy a new water pump and a timing cover gasket kit. Everything else on your old motor should bolt right up. No v belt needed. Blueprint is just used to selling drop in motors for older carb cars so it has the older generic style timing cover and balancer for the v belt set up and standard rotation water pump... You just swap to your old one's and bolt the old accessories up. They rate it within 16 hp of the old frpp engine at the flywheel, entirely up to you if you want to go to a larger injector or not, I've made over 350rwhp with 24lb injectors on a na motor without fueling issues, I doubt that combo would need more injector.

 

[93gtmustang]

There rear sump pan looks like a stock replacement fox body pan but those are genetic pics... Call and ask if it will work in a foxbody or if they have a pan that will for that block they can substitute. Most aftermarket blocks won't clear a stock mustang oil pan, I don't know what your old one had... Rest you just swap over from the old engine and buy a new water pump and a timing cover gasket kit. Everything else on your old motor should bolt right up. No v belt needed. Blueprint is just used to selling drop in motors for older carb cars so it has the older generic style timing cover and balancer for the v belt set up and standard rotation water pump... You just swap to your old one's and bolt the old accessories up. They rate it within 16 hp of the old frpp engine at the flywheel, entirely up to you if you want to go to a larger injector or not, I've made over 350rwhp with 24lb injectors on a na motor without fueling issues, I doubt that combo would need more injector.

Great! That's all good news. A friend that races with me found a shop like 10 minutes from me. https://libertyspeedllc.com/ I called. He is going to start with a leak down test etc... He rebuilds motors depending on what's going on with mine. He can start mid January approximately! Thanks for all the help! I will keep everyone updated on the progress.

 

[Noobz347]

Great! That's all good news. A friend that races with me found a shop like 10 minutes from me. https://libertyspeedllc.com/ I called. He is going to start with a leak down test etc... He rebuilds motors depending on what's going on with mine. He can start mid January approximately! Thanks for all the help! I will keep everyone updated on the progress.

I think this has the best chance of keeping you on a budget since you already possess the performance pieces you are happy with.

Hell, if it works out right, you might even be able to get some smoothing done to the upper/lower intake ports

 

[revhead347]

Thanks for the replys!
I don't have the experience or tools for a rebuild. I don't think it's worth it. So I would be looking for a Long Block similiar to mine, EFI compatible, same horse power so I could have it just dropped in with out changing injectors, MAF sensor etc.. I have SFI Ford Racing Balancer, pulleys, Intake.
This is alot more than I want to spend but, I could have it dropped in with out having to change anything and use it N/A. And add a supercharger in the future if wanted! https://accessories.ford.com/products/302-ci-340-hp-boss-crate-engine-with-e-cam

What they are trying to tell you is that the money is in the parts like the heads and cam that really don't wear out much. A low compression test means the cheap wear items like rings and bearings are starting to wear a little. The engine needs some re machine work, and cheap parts like rings, bearings, and valve guides at most. You should be able to bring that engine to some sort of engine builder locally and have it rebuilt without spending anywhere near that amount of money you would spend on a new one. If you absolutely have your heart set on a new engine, I hope you live close to me, because I'll pay decent money for the heads in the condition they are in. Hell, I'll pay decent money to have them shipped. I have an engine I'm building for a friend that could really use those heads.

Kurt

 

[Noobz347]

Ahh yes... Your used parts have value whether you keep or sell them. Unless physically damaged, they should be worth more in the hands than in the shipping box (unless you somehow get raped on labor costs).

So far tho... It sounds like the builder knows what to do. I'm interested in what his estimate will be.

 

[93gtmustang]

I brought the car to another shop. He did a leak down test.
He said "The engine is TIGHT. Input 100 psi during leak down test. All cylinders held 99-97.5 psi. 1 to 2.5% leak down. Super healthy. "
That's awesome!
The other shop must have done something incorrectly.

 

[FastDriver]

It helps if the valves are fully closed on a leak down test.