Something still isn’t right with the drivers side front brakes, outer brake pad still doesn’t seem like it’s making full contact with the rotor. So that could be it too.
Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel
- Thread starter gkomo
- Start date
Car is currently in the shop, waiting on parts, won’t be done until Wednesday. Shop found the sending unit gasket, fuel pump gasket, filler hose gasket and the rollover sensor/switch all leaking. I asked if the actual tank was good and they said, dirty on the outside but very clean inside. So at least that’s good. I have a 255lph walboro pump on the way, debating just having them put it in since they have the tank dropped anyways.
Also they quoted me a really good price (IMO) to swap the xpipe so I’m just gonna have them do it as well.
Also they quoted me a really good price (IMO) to swap the xpipe so I’m just gonna have them do it as well.
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More parts came in.
- new leather shifter boot
- new shifter bezel
- 255lph fuel pump
- the plastic piece under the center armrest, previous one was almost completely missing/broken
- fuel filter
- new prop rod retainer clip
Just need the car back to get the interior buttoned up.
- new leather shifter boot
- new shifter bezel
- 255lph fuel pump
- the plastic piece under the center armrest, previous one was almost completely missing/broken
- fuel filter
- new prop rod retainer clip
Just need the car back to get the interior buttoned up.
Can anyone confirm the Speed Bleeder P/Ns I need for cobra front brakes and (I believe) SN95 GT rear brakes are:
- Russell 125 639630 (rears) https://www.steeda.com/russell-mustang-rear-brake-speed-bleeders-125-639630.html
- Russell 125 639560 (fronts) https://www.steeda.com/russell-mustang-front-brake-speed-bleeders-125-639560.html
I’m questioning the fronts because steeda lists a different P/N for 99-04 and 79-98.
I was at a stoplight on a slight incline and my brake pedal went a little mushy so I had to pump it back up to firm the pedal feel up… I’m thinking it needs to have the brakes bled and maybe this has something to do with my drivers front pad not making full contact with the rotor.
- Russell 125 639630 (rears) https://www.steeda.com/russell-mustang-rear-brake-speed-bleeders-125-639630.html
- Russell 125 639560 (fronts) https://www.steeda.com/russell-mustang-front-brake-speed-bleeders-125-639560.html
I’m questioning the fronts because steeda lists a different P/N for 99-04 and 79-98.
I was at a stoplight on a slight incline and my brake pedal went a little mushy so I had to pump it back up to firm the pedal feel up… I’m thinking it needs to have the brakes bled and maybe this has something to do with my drivers front pad not making full contact with the rotor.
Speed bleeders can be useful but IMO save your money and buy a power bleeder.
www.motiveproducts.com
And you probably know this but make sure that when installed on the car the caliper bleeder is pointing up.
0107 Ford & Asian Import 3-Prong Power Bleeder – 1986+ Ford & Nissan
Motive 0107 3-prong power bleeder: fits 1986+ Ford, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Hyundai & Kia with 3-tab cap. 2 qt tank, one-person brake bleeding.
www.motiveproducts.com
And you probably know this but make sure that when installed on the car the caliper bleeder is pointing up.
Ordered.Speed bleeders can be useful but IMO save your money and buy a power bleeder.
0107 Ford & Asian Import 3-Prong Power Bleeder – 1986+ Ford & Nissan
Motive 0107 3-prong power bleeder: fits 1986+ Ford, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Hyundai & Kia with 3-tab cap. 2 qt tank, one-person brake bleeding.
And you probably know this but make sure that when installed on the car the caliper bleeder is pointing up.
Also the shop that fixed my fuel tank leaks said my harmonic balancer is bad and some rubber gasket or something is starting to pop out.
Lots to do, lots to do.
I'd put that balancer pretty high on the to do list.
Powerbond, Pioneer and Ford are all brands I've seen recommended here...
Agreed, DO NOT let that linger or run the engine much till you can replace it.
Woah that Ford Performane one is much better than the $430 one I had in my LMR basket. I’ll grab this one. Thanks!
So the shop said I have a ‘slight vibration’ at 1,500 rpm’s which triggered them to look. I’ll have to read the paperwork write up for the exact diagnoses, just wondering if it safe to go drive it to get smogged in this condition.
I need to do this fix myself, can’t keep paying shops to do the work. Lighter on my wallet and defeats the purpose of buying a project car anyways. Looking at YouTube videos, I’ll need to buy a pulley puller to get it off?
Man unless you are racing I would run the PowerBond and not loose a bit of sleep.
Another thread on this:
Another thread on this:
It's not too hard to do with the proper tools (puller), I'd say do it yourself.
As for getting other work done first, I personally would wait. My first foxbody back in 1997 had a balancer go bad and fail (like what you're describing) while I was 20 minutes from home. There was a pretty bad vibration but I was a dumb 17 year old who decided to limp it home. The balancer got replaced the next day but the engine failed entirely within 1k miles after that. The wrist pin on the #5 cylinder walked it's way out of the piston into the cylinder wall and ate into the block. I ended up needing an entirely new engine build even though I thought I was ok to limp it home.
So you think the Powerbond over the Ford Performance one that’s just an OEM replacement?Man unless you are racing I would run the PowerBond and not loose a bit of sleep.
Another thread on this:
The harmonic balancer pullers are like $85 on Summit, just get one of those?
All I really want to do is get the damn thing smogged so I can transfer the title. I don’t care if the car sits for 6 months after that while I work on my list of things to do. Smog shop is like .3 miles away from me, so don’t drive it until I replace the balancer?
I believe last time I removed my balancer I rented the removal and install tools from the parts house.
I just ended up getting the Ford Performance one, and a Proform Harmonic Balancer puller kit from Summit. Thanks for the links!
Just rent the puller, I understand you just want to smog it, but if it let's go during that time (and someone other than you is behind the wheel, like the minimum wage earning kid doing the test) how mad will you be in a few months when you need a new short block? It's your car, I haven't seen it and might be overstating the problem without you posting pictures of how bad it is, but from my experience they let go in a hurry once they announce their presence.
Well I took a chance and drove it to get smogged this morning, which it passed with flying colors. Woohoo!
I also had time to take off the front drivers wheel and address the rubbing issue:
Before:
After:
Then I put the car on ramps because I wanted to change the speedo gear, which I did. That was a pain in the butt because the exhaust hangars made for little room to maneuver the sensor assembly out, but I did manage.
While the car was on ramps I decided to take some time and clean the front undercarriage as much as I could. It was pretty nasty.
As I was cleaning I did look at the harmonic balancer, here are a couple photos:
I’m guessing it’s that rubber ring protruding out that’s not supposed to, as well as some of it missing near the top of the top photo. I won’t drive it now until I get that replaced. Not supposed to be here till Friday.
I also had time to take off the front drivers wheel and address the rubbing issue:
Before:
After:
Then I put the car on ramps because I wanted to change the speedo gear, which I did. That was a pain in the butt because the exhaust hangars made for little room to maneuver the sensor assembly out, but I did manage.
While the car was on ramps I decided to take some time and clean the front undercarriage as much as I could. It was pretty nasty.
As I was cleaning I did look at the harmonic balancer, here are a couple photos:
I’m guessing it’s that rubber ring protruding out that’s not supposed to, as well as some of it missing near the top of the top photo. I won’t drive it now until I get that replaced. Not supposed to be here till Friday.
So where I’m at currently and what needs to be done to get a good ‘baseline’, drivable and enjoyable car, I still need to do:
- passenger inner tie rod (have parts)
- drivers ball joint (have parts)
- harmonic balancer (waiting on parts)
- alignment
- at least two new rear tires, preferably all 4
- bleed brakes (waiting on parts) and/or figure out why that drivers outside pad isn’t making full contact with the rotor. When I had the wheel off for the rubbing issue I did inspect the caliper and everything and didn’t notice anything odd except the pin that holds the pads didn’t seem to be greased and was hard to wiggle, stuck pad maybe?)
Things I also need to do but don’t seem to bother me at the moment:
- fix airbag light (haven’t even looked into that yet)
- figure out radio situation
- one of my mufflers MAY be hitting something when going over bumps, not 100% sure
- drivers window makes a noticeable clunk when rolled down all the way, so something with the track or bushings in there
- install my weatherstripping kit
- figure out and fix why my hatch glovebox button doesn’t do anything
- install front sway bar bushings (have parts)
- install new door hinge pins (have parts)
Parts I have but am in no hurry to install:
- walboro 255lph fuel pump
- motor craft fuel filter
- MM LCAs
- passenger inner tie rod (have parts)
- drivers ball joint (have parts)
- harmonic balancer (waiting on parts)
- alignment
- at least two new rear tires, preferably all 4
- bleed brakes (waiting on parts) and/or figure out why that drivers outside pad isn’t making full contact with the rotor. When I had the wheel off for the rubbing issue I did inspect the caliper and everything and didn’t notice anything odd except the pin that holds the pads didn’t seem to be greased and was hard to wiggle, stuck pad maybe?)
Things I also need to do but don’t seem to bother me at the moment:
- fix airbag light (haven’t even looked into that yet)
- figure out radio situation
- one of my mufflers MAY be hitting something when going over bumps, not 100% sure
- drivers window makes a noticeable clunk when rolled down all the way, so something with the track or bushings in there
- install my weatherstripping kit
- figure out and fix why my hatch glovebox button doesn’t do anything
- install front sway bar bushings (have parts)
- install new door hinge pins (have parts)
Parts I have but am in no hurry to install:
- walboro 255lph fuel pump
- motor craft fuel filter
- MM LCAs
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