Progress Thread Komo's 1990 GT - Parts Gathering Purgatory & Home Remodel

[gkomo]

I'm no Engine Master, but with the above findings isn't it pretty solid evidence i'm getting excessive blow-by in that cylinder due to 'most likely' a stuck piston ring(s)? Original plug was gunked with oil, swapped it, new plug is gunked with oil, runs fine with a fresh plug until it gets gunked up with oil again.

I'm going to try to drive the car more to put some miles on the oil with SeaFoam in it and see if that helps. After that i've already bought some Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30.

 

[gkomo]

At least she's running and driving. Drove great to work today:



Funny enough, I didn't see any more waxy drops from that cable here at work. After idling in my driveway two days ago, another large waxy pool of gunk was on my driveway (so now two big spots). So either its dropped everything it can or actually driving it provides enough cooling where it doesn't melt. I'm almost starting to think the cable jacket was jacked up and then whatever grease was inside the cable is what is falling out of the hole in the cable and messing up my driveway.

 

[nickyb]

I'm no Engine Master, but with the above findings isn't it pretty solid evidence i'm getting excessive blow-by in that cylinder due to 'most likely' a stuck piston ring(s)? Original plug was gunked with oil, swapped it, new plug is gunked with oil, runs fine with a fresh plug until it gets gunked up with oil again.

I'm going to try to drive the car more to put some miles on the oil with SeaFoam in it and see if that helps. After that i've already bought some Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30.

If you haven't done a compression test yet do one, let us know what #7 cylinder is compare that to the rest.

 

[Noobz347]

I will just add that #4 plug looks just as bad as #7 did and that I think your oil is coming in through the intake.

They [all] looked pretty oily.

 

[gkomo]

I will just add that #4 plug looks just as bad as #7 did and that I think your oil is coming in through the intake.

They [all] looked pretty oily.

Ok sorry for the follow up question as i know you've already talked about adding a second PCV line. But remind me, how is oil getting up into my intake? Would that mean my 'new' PCV screen is not capturing enough oil droplets and its flowing from the PCV, through my UPR check valve (which it should), to the intake (underside of intake above drivers side valve cover)?

I mean i 'technically' do have a second crankcase vent from the Paxton kit, from the oil fill neck to the airbox, right?

 

[gkomo]

If you haven't done a compression test yet do one, let us know what #7 cylinder is compare that to the rest.

I need to buy a compression tool/gauge, i don't currently have one. I used to be scared of doing a compression test as it sounded more voodoo to me, but watching some videos it seems fairly easy, especially since the gauges hold the pressure until you release it so it can be done by myself.

 

[gkomo]

I thought i took more pictures of when i took my upper intake off to clean/paint it, but i didn't. However, here's the condition of the lower intake runners, the upper looked similar:



As you can see there is a lot of sludgy oil residue. It was everywhere throughout the upper intake and EGR which i'm unclear how it can get so bad way up by the EGR if the PCV connects to like the middle of the intake and air should be being sucked into the engine from that point.

 

[Noobz347]

I mean i 'technically' do have a second crankcase vent from the Paxton kit, from the oil fill neck to the airbox, right?

I am not familiar with the Paxton kit so, I don't know what looks like.

But remind me, how is oil getting up into my intake?

Because the air velocity in you [UNDERSIZED] PCV system is moving [so fast] that it's picking up the oil-laden crank-case air and sending it through the intake.

Creating [another] path for that crank-case air to escape will [slow] all of the air being pulled by vacuum. This allows the air to be more lazy and move slower. This slower moving air allows more time for the oil droplets to separate from the crank case air. The oil is heavier than the air and will separate if given the time.

If you're moving the air at 100 MPH through the PCV, it's going to take with it, whatever is mixed into the air. Your crankshaft does an [amazing] job of atomizing the oil and putting those droplets into crankcase air.

This is essentially what the airflow looks like at idle.

When at WOT all of the airflow arrows indicated above will be pushing [out]. This includes the port at the oil filler. The [reason] it is suggested to route the oil filler or any other similar port between the MAF and the TB is because that air has already been measured by the MAF [before] it gets to the crankcase.

 

[gkomo]

Here is the best photo i can find of the Paxton crankcase 'vent':



So the line with the fuel filter on top of the inlet tube is just connected from the Oil Filler neck, to where you see it on the airbox (before filter). As mentioned and discussed previously throughout this thread, not sure why Paxton does it this way, but it is correctly routed per their instructions.

I totally like your idea of adding a second PCV to the engine, was just hoping there would be a super simple place to do it. Removing a valve cover and drilling a hole in it and doing all that... just don't know if i'll have the time for at least the next 10 months while our house project is being done. I won't have a garage or driveway during this time.

 

[Noobz347]

In your image: Crankcase air that has already been metered by the MAF is going through the meter [again].

Now, I don't know what that cannister is in that line but I imagine that it is a filter of some sort?\
If so, and if it is part of the kit, I would imagine that it exists to keep oil off of the MAF.


How I would have plumed that line:

I cannot see where the other end of that hose disappears to. I am assuming it's getting crankcase air from somewhere.

I would plumb that in just before the TB but after the MAF.


"Well godammit Noobz, why do they tell me to hook it up this way???"

Because of that El-Cheapazz flexible duct that come with the kit and because the amount of air that is getting [remeasured] is largely insignificant by itself.

 

[Noobz347]

Oh.... On the topic of valve covers:

Buy another set on the cheap, cheap, cheap ( I like the OEM covers and because of the KB, I kinda [have] to like them).
Get it all planned out, how you want it to go it. Make the covers as perdy as you like, drill your grommet hole, and put it on the shelf until you come across another reason to pull that cover.

This gives you lots of time to think, plan, and rethink.

 

[gkomo]

In your image: Crankcase air that has already been metered by the MAF is going through the meter [again].

True

Now, I don't know what that cannister is in that line but I imagine that it is a filter of some sort?\
If so, and if it is part of the kit, I would imagine that it exists to keep oil off of the MAF.

Its a WIX fuel filter by looking up the P/N

How I would have plumed that line:

I cannot see where the other end of that hose disappears to. I am assuming it's getting crankcase air from somewhere.

I would plumb that in just before the TB but after the MAF.

That line connects to the oil fill neck where the original line would come from the TB

"Well godammit Noobz, why do they tell me to hook it up this way???"

Because of that El-Cheapazz flexible duct that come with the kit and because the amount of air that is getting [remeasured] is largely insignificant by itself.

I don't know if id want crankcase vented air being introduced before the s/c head unit anyways just since its oily. Should/could probably move that line to the hard plastic discharge pipe between the head unit and TB.

Oh.... On the topic of valve covers:

Buy another set on the cheap, cheap, cheap ( I like the OEM covers and because of the KB, I kinda [have] to like them).
Get it all planned out, how you want it to go it. Make the covers as perdy as you like, drill your grommet hole, and put it on the shelf until you come across another reason to pull that cover.

This gives you lots of time to think, plan, and rethink.

This is actually a good idea. Something i could do whilst the car is remaining driveable.

 

[nickyb]

And while your doing all that thinking and planning and rethinking, go to your local parts store and they will loan you a compression tester.

 

[Noobz347]

I don't know if id want crankcase vented air being introduced before the s/c head unit anyways just since its oily. Should/could probably move that line to the hard plastic discharge pipe between the head unit and TB.

You kinda threw me with this statement.

You can't put it in the blower discharge pipe because that pipe is pressurized.

Also... In your image, that fuel filter is removing any oil. It is not a good system IMO. Eventually that filter will be saturated. You should have a spare on-hand. You could also ditch that filter and put something like this inline:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Standard-Poly-Bowl-Filter-HDA70603AV/100040942

This also provides the added benefit of being able to monitor how much oil is getting picked up in that line.

 

[gkomo]

And while your doing all that thinking and planning and rethinking, go to your local parts store and they will loan you a compression tester.

Great idea. I don't mind buying the tools though. I typically have little to zero time to work on this car so its more like if i randomly get 30 minutes here or 20 minutes there i try to tackle things. Driving to/from a parts store would burn up the actual time i have to do anything and i don't want to hold onto a rented tool for who knows how long until i get the time.

 

[gkomo]

You kinda threw me with this statement.

You can't put it in the blower discharge pipe because that pipe is pressurized.

Also... In your image, that fuel filter is removing any oil. It is not a good system IMO. Eventually that filter will be saturated. You should have a spare on-hand. You could also ditch that filter and put something like this inline:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-8-in-Standard-Poly-Bowl-Filter-HDA70603AV/100040942

This also provides the added benefit of being able to monitor how much oil is getting picked up in that line.

Ok i see what you mean by the discharge pipe being pressurized. I'm still learning!

So yes now it makes sense, can't screw in a fitting to a dryer vent tube.

And yes, because i can't see that filter (covered by a metal case) i have no idea when it becomes saturated. Without changing the Paxton setup, i wonder if i could at least get a clear cased filter?

 

[Noobz347]

Without changing the Paxton setup, i wonder if i could at least get a clear cased filter?

That is essentially what that separator is that I posted.

It doesn't have to be those one either. Just about any hardware store that has air compressor [stuff] will have a 3/8" air/oil separator. You can find them in 1/2" as well (depending on your line size).

I remove the internal filter element on the separator. It's not needed as the oil gets slammed to the bottom of the container.

 

[gkomo]

From another thread re PCV



@gkomo Here's how you do it with the dryer vent. I found this in my build thread when I had the entry kit. I'd guess you have the same elbow. If you do it's already threaded. All you gotta to do is drill the center out and tread in a 90° hose barb. Then your filter and PCV inlet goes there. Real simple.

Was going back through my thread trying to find the Paxton vent fuel filter P/N as i know it was discussed. Couldn't find it, however i came across this post which i think i will now finally follow through on, especially since we've all been talking about it again. So i purchased this hose barb:

And will plumb it just like the quoted picture, then cap the barb coming off the airbox assembly. This is a 3/8" x 3/8" 90 degree hose barb that has the nut to hold it in place. I assume i'll put some silicone or something on the washers to prevent any air getting in when i install it.

 

[Noobz347]

I like where you're going with this.

My thought after having only seen the barb is that you might look for some rubber washers to help seal and that you'll probably need to cut that barb short, where it goes into the valve cover.

It might also need to be shrouded on the inside.

I will leave this here just for reference:

DELUXE Barbed Valve Cover & Air Cleaner Breather Vents, Pair

Do you need to vent your stock or aftermarket valve covers? Do you need to add a breather to your air cleaner? Simply drill a hole and install this vent. The deluxe version comes with longer barbed fittings so the hose does not come off as easily.

www.shopkaddieshack.com

This one has a built-in baffle:

Moroso -8An Female Non Weld-On Valve Cover Fitting w/Baffle

Moroso -8An Female Non Weld-On Valve Cover Fitting w/Baffle

drifthq.com

 

[gkomo]

I like where you're going with this.

My thought after having only seen the barb is that you might look for some rubber washers to help seal and that you'll probably need to cut that barb short, where it goes into the valve cover.

It might also need to be shrouded on the inside.

I will leave this here just for reference:

DELUXE Barbed Valve Cover & Air Cleaner Breather Vents, Pair

Do you need to vent your stock or aftermarket valve covers? Do you need to add a breather to your air cleaner? Simply drill a hole and install this vent. The deluxe version comes with longer barbed fittings so the hose does not come off as easily.

www.shopkaddieshack.com

This one has a built-in baffle:

Moroso -8An Female Non Weld-On Valve Cover Fitting w/Baffle

Moroso -8An Female Non Weld-On Valve Cover Fitting w/Baffle

drifthq.com

The one i posted will go on the plastic inlet elbow to the supercharger head unit. The 'origin' of this line is still coming off the OEM valve cover oil filler neck. This barb just solves the metered air being remetered from how Paxton has the vent line ran.