93 5.0 Microsquirt with Stage 3 trickflow tuning issues

Here is a data log with every logging profile on, let me know. this was just sitting at idle


Still the same. Much lower amount of logged profiles.

One thing i've learned is that Microsquirt also doesn't seem to do idle timing correction. You are locked at 18 degrees. Try backing the timing in those cells down to 16 and see if idle quality improves a little.
 
Still the same. Much lower amount of logged profiles.

One thing i've learned is that Microsquirt also doesn't seem to do idle timing correction. You are locked at 18 degrees. Try backing the timing in those cells down to 16 and see if idle quality improves a little.
I cant even get the car to start right now. Just gonna call it a night I think. No clue. Anyone know anybody that will tune over laptop? I'm sick of it
 
I think you do need some local help or remote help. The way we are going about this just isn't going to work.

Hop on Corral.net and seek out LowRanger96 He's a tuner. Not sure if he does remote tuning but I think he does. I don't think he's on this forum
 
I think you do need some local help or remote help. The way we are going about this just isn't going to work.

Hop on Corral.net and seek out LowRanger96 He's a tuner. Not sure if he does remote tuning but I think he does. I don't think he's on this forum
Well thank all of you for your help. I think im going to go the local route. Just wanna drive the car ha.
 
I'll give this a try tomorrow. Local tuner is in Florida for 2 weeks. So i gotta wait anyways.

Thanks
Alrighty, loaded that tune file, ran wue correction while it was warming up. Idle was bouncing all over from 900-1300, once warm it would still bounce around from 700-1100. Then after that the electric fans kicked on, car died and would not start back up.

I didnt mess with any of the tune settings other than changing injector dead time back to .9.

AFRs were around 11-12 the entire time with a target of 13.8 or so. its like no matter the amount of fuel i pull its still rich as hell.

Whats the pulse width gauge for? thats steadily going up, when i first started it was at 3, now its creeping into the 10s.
 
The higher the pulse width, the longer the injector stays open.

With my 47# injectors, i see about 2.5ms at idle for pulse width. I'd expect with 24's it to be about double so 4-6ms. 10 is a bit high. I see that with a light rev.

Something in the tune is commanding more fuel. What number are your idle cells at now? High 30's?

Try under general settings, changing your setting from 4 quirts to 2 squirts. I think you had 4 squirts. I run my setup on 2.

When it won;t restart when hot, does it restart with the throttle blade slightly cracked open? That could be a idle setting or too much/little cranking fuel at that specific temp region.
 
The higher the pulse width, the longer the injector stays open.

With my 47# injectors, i see about 2.5ms at idle for pulse width. I'd expect with 24's it to be about double so 4-6ms. 10 is a bit high. I see that with a light rev.

Something in the tune is commanding more fuel. What number are your idle cells at now? High 30's?

Try under general settings, changing your setting from 4 quirts to 2 squirts. I think you had 4 squirts. I run my setup on 2.

When it won;t restart when hot, does it restart with the throttle blade slightly cracked open? That could be a idle setting or too much/little cranking fuel at that specific temp region.
Ok I think that helped out BIG time for sure. Right around target afr now.

My idle cells are in the high 30s and some 40s, still wanting to idle around 1k tho. I cant get it to settle down.

It still died the second the fan kicked on which never happened before, and the start up i did have to crack the throttle just a little. I may have backed the throttle too far back to try to get the idle to settle down.

I have attached a data log, not sure if you can see it or not, but im able to view it which is weird.
In this log the fan turns on right at 190, of course the one log i try to record it shutting off when the fans kick on it doesnt.

Not sure if the screen shot of the log helps, I have no clue what im doing when i view those. Just tried to match everything together.
 

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If you unplug the IAC with it running (fully warmed up), does it stall? Or does it maintain 1000RPM? I'm wondering if the blade is just not adjusted properly.

If you have to apply throttle to get it to restart then there is a setting for that under idle called "Idle cranking steps" or something like that. For the temp it won't restart at, you can apply more throttle opening in the tune at that temp which should get you more airflow.

I'm not on my tuning laptop now so I can't open up the tune and show screenshots or make the changes myself.
 
If you unplug the IAC with it running (fully warmed up), does it stall? Or does it maintain 1000RPM? I'm wondering if the blade is just not adjusted properly.

If you have to apply throttle to get it to restart then there is a setting for that under idle called "Idle cranking steps" or something like that. For the temp it won't restart at, you can apply more throttle opening in the tune at that temp which should get you more airflow.

I'm not on my tuning laptop now so I can't open up the tune and show screenshots or make the changes myself.
It instantly stalls, so I assume that i need to open it more?

Im going to wait to make any more changes to the tune for now until i fix that, it should run with the IAC unplugged correct?
 
One thing I see. I can't open the log (due to being at work on a different PC) but looking at your screen grab, i see your oscillations are somewhat related to a rise in AFR and a rise in target AFR.

I can't see what VE cells it's bouncing between but it look like the AFR goes lean. usually a lean VE cell causes idle to climb. I think you are pulling fuel to drop the idle but I think you want to try the opposite here. Add a tiny big of fuel to the low VE cell and see if that settles the surge a bit. Then you'll want to add a bit of fuel into the cell that the idle is surging up into to fatten that up which forces the idle down.

Kinda circling example high points.

Also your AFR target is surging as well. As you smooth idle out you might want to align the cells so that your target in idle is the same.

The high idle itself might be something with the throttle blade angle, or a setting in the idle steps. I'll need to take a look later

1782401218073.webp
 
It instantly stalls, so I assume that i need to open it more?

Im going to wait to make any more changes to the tune for now until i fix that, it should run with the IAC unplugged correct?

That's how mine is setup. It should maintain a very low idle with it unplugged. The IAC is just there to trim it out. Right now your are maintianing idle 100% by the IAC valve.

You can try opening it a few turns. Start engine, unplug the IAC and then walk it down a bit to a very low idle before it wants to stall out. Tune quality may play a roll in how low you get here. But go as log as you can. Shut off car, Recall TPS and restart and see if it allows you to better turn the surge out of the idle.

I do think it's a mix of the idle valve and the VE cells needing some tweaking as well.
 
That's how mine is setup. It should maintain a very low idle with it unplugged. The IAC is just there to trim it out. Right now your are maintianing idle 100% by the IAC valve.

You can try opening it a few turns. Start engine, unplug the IAC and then walk it down a bit to a very low idle before it wants to stall out. Tune quality may play a roll in how low you get here. But go as log as you can. Shut off car, Recall TPS and restart and see if it allows you to better turn the surge out of the idle.

I do think it's a mix of the idle valve and the VE cells needing some tweaking as well.
After trying about 5 times, i cant get it to idle below 700 without stalling with the iac unplugged. So i recalibrated the tps and it still wants to idle around 1000-1100
 
That's how mine is setup. It should maintain a very low idle with it unplugged. The IAC is just there to trim it out. Right now your are maintianing idle 100% by the IAC valve.

You can try opening it a few turns. Start engine, unplug the IAC and then walk it down a bit to a very low idle before it wants to stall out. Tune quality may play a roll in how low you get here. But go as log as you can. Shut off car, Recall TPS and restart and see if it allows you to better turn the surge out of the idle.

I do think it's a mix of the idle valve and the VE cells needing some tweaking as well.
It just doesnt want to run lower than 700-800 rpm before stalling, I'm just gonna say F it and pull the intake off and adjust the rockers. No telling what those are like. Gonna let her cool down and adjust rockers and ill be back in a few hours.

Seriously tho, thank you for all of your help. If I could buy you a beer I would!
 
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