Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

Mustang5L5 · Oct 28, 2020

I weighed all my components for my swap, and the difference wasn't much. Maybe a 40lb difference? I didn't do it so much for the weight reduction though. The ride with coil-overs though was fantastic.

I didn't relocate the battery though. I have a hatch and I didn't want to put the battery back there where it would be visible and where I stow my sunroof, or any cargo I may take with me if i'm taking the car to work on a few errands. If I had a coupe with an enclosed trunk, I would do it.

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

Before and after front seat upholstery photos. The pleats match and everything.

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
I weighed all my components for my swap, and the difference wasn't much. Maybe a 40lb difference? I didn't do it so much for the weight reduction though. The ride with coil-overs though was fantastic.

I didn't relocate the battery though. I have a hatch and I didn't want to put the battery back there where it would be visible and where I stow my sunroof, or any cargo I may take with me if i'm taking the car to work on a few errands. If I had a coupe with an enclosed trunk, I would do it.

I found the matching trunk material at the same place I purchased the new seat material. I plan to wrap the metal battery box in the trunk material so it will look right at home and maybe even blend in a little. Seems like a very straightforward mod with maybe the worst part being dropping the tank to access the tie down bolts.

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

One more of the before and after to celebrate a long 20 months (on multiple levels).

Boostedpimp · Oct 28, 2020

Quality is top notch with mm stuff. I personally have upr on my two cars and the mm stuff is a good bit heavier. My little brother has a low mile coupe which he has put everything mm makes on it front to back and has no regrets so you can't go wrong with them. I'd say if the car was strip oriented I'd go for a brand that was more weight savings otherwise if you can float the bill go with mm.

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

Boostedpimp said:
Quality is top notch with mm stuff. I personally have upr on my two cars and the mm stuff is a good bit heavier. My little brother has a low mile coupe which he has put everything mm makes on it front to back and has no regrets so you can't go wrong with them. I'd say if the car was strip oriented I'd go for a brand that was more weight savings otherwise if you can float the bill go with mm.

With no engine and trans that's a walk in the park.

Potomus Pete · Oct 28, 2020

Like the airbox with the nice sticker.

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

Potomus Pete said:
Like the airbox with the nice sticker.

Made 12 hp over the open conical filter. I'll undoubtedly get flamed on that, but I have before and after dyno sheets for proof.

I only realized after that I put it on the wrong spot. Err.

Potomus Pete · Oct 28, 2020

I like it wish I had mine still. When they are restored they look better than a PowerPipe. The first thing I did was threw the thing in the trash not knowing that its the stocker look that will sell some day.

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

Potomus Pete said:
I like it wish I had mine still. When they are restored they look better than a PowerPipe. The first thing I did was threw the thing in the trash not knowing that its the stocker look that will sell some day.

That's not OEM. LMR sells them now.

Boostedpimp · Oct 28, 2020

Habu135 said:
With no engine and trans that's a walk in the park.

lol yeah he had a slight leak from the oil pan gasket which was bothering him so he pulled it to make the install easier for both the pan and k member.

Potomus Pete · Oct 28, 2020

I spent a lot on an Anderson Pwer Pipe, Pro M mass air , Accufab throttle body, . First thing I got not knowing any better. I think I have some gains, but my car is very jumpy

Boostedpimp · Oct 28, 2020

Potomus Pete said:
I spent a lot on an Anderson Pwer Pipe, Pro M mass air , Accufab throttle body, . First thing I got not knowing any better. I think I have some gains, but my car is very jumpy

You bought good parts

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
I weighed all my components for my swap, and the difference wasn't much. Maybe a 40lb difference? I didn't do it so much for the weight reduction though. The ride with coil-overs though was fantastic.

I didn't relocate the battery though. I have a hatch and I didn't want to put the battery back there where it would be visible and where I stow my sunroof, or any cargo I may take with me if i'm taking the car to work on a few errands. If I had a coupe with an enclosed trunk, I would do it.

In the end was it about a $3000 bill?

Mustang5L5 · Oct 28, 2020

Habu135 said:
In the end was it about a $3000 bill?

I didn't buy it all at once, but i'd say you are in the ballpark.

I bought all the pieces over time however, and since LMR sells MM parts, I took advantage of their 6-10% off codes which did apply to MM parts. I bought my K-member and A-arms this way which knocked $100 off the retail price. Also, MM themselves would do weekend sales in the holiday seasons where they would knock some $$ off.

So it was definitely over $2K, but not sure if I hit $3K. I also have the rear suspension parts too, subframes, Strut tower brace, panhard bar. Add in those costs and i'm over $3K for what i'd spent on MM parts on this car. Not cheap stuff, but high quality.

I also did install the Coil-overs without the K-member. I'm only installing the K-member now, but I noticed a definitely improvement with just the coil-overs alone. If I didn't just pull my engine out and found my stock k-member bent, I prob would have just left it all alone and still have the stock K-member.

I will say that the MM parts, when properly matched, do not make the car ride poorly at all. My setup is geared to street driving, so someone putting a road-course setup on their car won't say the same thing obviously.

EDIT: I have basically this package, pieced together, but with the K-member and A-arms as well (Another $1K) and a few additional MM parts. I also have their better rear LCA's. So probably $3.5K-4K retain in MM stuff on my car.

Road & Track Box for 1987-1993 Mustang

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
I didn't buy it all at once, but i'd say you are in the ballpark.

I bought all the pieces over time however, and since LMR sells MM parts, I took advantage of their 6-10% off codes which did apply to MM parts. I bought my K-member and A-arms this way which knocked $100 off the retail price. Also, MM themselves would do weekend sales in the holiday seasons where they would knock some $$ off.

So it was definitely over $2K, but not sure if I hit $3K. I also have the rear suspension parts too, subframes, Strut tower brace, panhard bar. Add in those costs and i'm over $3K for what i'd spent on MM parts on this car. Not cheap stuff, but high quality.

I also did install the Coil-overs without the K-member. I'm only installing the K-member now, but I noticed a definitely improvement with just the coil-overs alone. If I didn't just pull my engine out and found my stock k-member bent, I prob would have just left it all alone and still have the stock K-member.

I will say that the MM parts, when properly matched, do not make the car ride poorly at all. My setup is geared to street driving, so someone putting a road-course setup on their car won't say the same thing obviously.

EDIT: I have basically this package, pieced together, but with the K-member and A-arms as well (Another $1K) and a few additional MM parts. I also have their better rear LCA's. So probably $3.5K-4K retain in MM stuff on my car.

Road & Track Box for 1987-1993 Mustang

Panhard bar?

Mustang5L5 · Oct 28, 2020

Yup, not installed yet though

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

Mustang5L5 said:
Yup, not installed yet though

Other than doing the mod motor swap, maintaining the live axle is a true sign of a Fox Body fan.

Habu135 · Oct 28, 2020

Just saw this on one of Facebook's many Mustang pages. Hilarious and likely true.

Habu135 · Nov 21, 2020

I'm happy to say that I've worked ALL the bugs out of my car and am now prepping for a MM k member install (planning for February). However, I've noticed occasionally at a constant speed on the freeway my car will exhibit slight hesitation with consistent throttle input. I've swapped out everything over the past 2 years (fuel filter, IAC, plugs, cap and rotor, etc. etc.). Is it possible for the fuel sock to not pull a consistent volume of fuel if the tank is 1/8 or less?

Progress Thread 12th Owner: My '93 Notchback Restoration & Performance Build

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That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

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