I like going a bit smaller, just a tad lean at full tilt, on the power valve; Tune the accelerator cam and squirter size to cover a hole in the fuel curve, if there is one. Then tune the secondaries
I like going a bit smaller, just a tad lean at full tilt, on the power valve; Tune the accelerator cam and squirter size to cover a hole in the fuel curve, if there is one. Then tune the secondariesI confirmed the power valve size. 5.5 should be correct, but I think as insurance I may pick up another 5.5 PV when I pick up the sensor bung from the parts store.
Edit: The more I think about it I think I'll pick up a 4.5. I think I should err to the lower side with this, and since it was somewhere in the 10-11 inch range for vacuum, I'm going to go with 10 which would require a 4.5 power valve. Since they don't carry a 4.5 PV, I guess I'm at a standstill with actually going farther with the carb once I get the gauge installed. So this escapade will continue for at least a few days.....
Anything in the 224-230 @.050 range for a cam and I use a couple sizes up on the jets ( a little more on the secondary) a 2.5 power valve and the lightest vac adv. spring. Seems to work great.I like going a bit smaller, just a tad lean at full tilt, on the power valve; Tune the accelerator cam and squirter size to cover a hole in the fuel curve, if there is one. Then tune the secondaries
Sounds more like a good job for winter. If it is a fuel delivery issue, it will not solve your problem.I'm seriously contemplating pulling the whole harness from the engine bay and going through it wire by wire.
I had thought about that during my walk and will recheck them once I start working on it again. And you're right, it will most likely be a winter job. I'm too involved with other projects for me to start ripping into the car. I imagine it's going to take me some time to chase all of the wires in the harness to ensure that they are intact as well as re-loom the harness. I think that will be my number one priority when I decide to get into it. After I'm convinced that the wiring is up to snuff, I will get into my fuel system. I am thinking of doing exactly what I think you've done and install an electric pump near the tank to push fuel to the mechanical pump. I'm not sure if I believe it's vapor lock or if it's actually that the mechanical pump is starting to go bad or what the deal is, but I think I'd like to eliminate that variable. While I'm tearing into the fuel system I will most likely tear down the carburetor and give it a once over. I think it's very possible that I have a blocked passage somewhere that's not allowing fuel to pass as it should. I've also thought about eliminating the carburetor altogether and just going with a fuel injection system. I'd really like to go with multi port, but for ease of installation I'd probably go with the throttle body system. I have a lot to think about in any case.....Sounds more like a good job for winter. If it is a fuel delivery issue, it will not solve your problem.
Just because it seems it was my problem: did you re-torque the intake manifold bolts? On my 66 coupe I re-torqued them every season for 5 years, till they "hold" the torque/pre-load.
Because I'm using the explorer front dress, I can't run a mechanical pump, so I only have the electric fuel pump. If there where the possibility to run a mechanical pump I would get rid off the electric pump.After I'm convinced that the wiring is up to snuff, I will get into my fuel system. I am thinking of doing exactly what I think you've done and install an electric pump near the tank to push fuel to the mechanical pump. I'm not sure if I believe it's vapor lock or if it's actually that the mechanical pump is starting to go bad or what the deal is, but I think I'd like to eliminate that variable.
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