Progress Thread 1963 Falcor GT?

I think we can work with this thread, a title adjustment, move to the correct forum and you're all set.
Oh, one thing though, well, maybe more than one thing, but right now it weighs on my mind. That copper fuel line has gotta go, bad for business.
We have another Falcon aficionado, he has taken a more 'custom' approach, also a 5.0 push rod swapped old pickup, he had some issues with computer wiring (I think) that would be a good read too.
Some things are different like he used a non HO engine so don't get confused.
 
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Cool you did the thinkin' for me and I don't have to stick to whats relevant to the post. The Falcon GT thing is starting to work for me though my accountant likes Falcor. I will be checkin out the other guy's Falcon page for sure see whats up. Why is the copper line not so good? I trust your advice, just curious.
 
Soft metal, very susceptible to heat, think about it, ever see copper tubing used in the auto industry? Well at least not since the 1900's.
Trust my advice?? That may get you in trouble with the accountant.
I spend a fair amount of time hiding in the back yard, I'm only allowed in the house if my hands are clean and not holding car parts.
 
You'll be happy with it when the bugs are worked out. I think I'm a little ways ahead of you on pretty much the same build. Mine is down right now with a cracked brake line. I have a 4R70W in mine. I had to add traction bars to keep the drive shaft from hitting the tunnel during hard shifts. Here's a couple pics.
 

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You'll be happy with it when the bugs are worked out. I think I'm a little ways ahead of you on pretty much the same build. Mine is down right now with a cracked brake line. I have a 4R70W in mine. I had to add traction bars to keep the drive shaft from hitting the tunnel during hard shifts. Here's a couple pics.
I was checkin that out this morning. Really nice. Not so sure mine will end up as shiny but all the work I do will be towards a nice paint job in the end. Till then the standard flat black. It's funny when I first got mine it had the same hub caps on it. When I first saw the car I thought they were moon disks but just hub caps, close lookin though. Here's a pic regarding drive shafts hitting the floor!

shaft hole.jpg

Seller told me it's where the owner before him "cut it out to lower it". Seems kinda ripped up for being cut out. He also said it was a drag car in a previous life. I think I can do a better job at repairing it than the tin screwed over it to hide it and spray bombed, from the drivers side laying on the ground I'm guessin. Also there is this:

ladder.jpg

Looks like whats left of some kinda ladder/link bar I think. Probably when that hole was made the rear with the link HAD to be removed. Putting what I was told was supposed to be a 9" in it's place. hmm...

rear.jpg

Another rainy day here in Michigan only get to think about what to do. Bench racin's good too and the hands stay cleaner. Thanks for checkin out my post, time to head out make some more room in the garage. One day I'll get the car in there.
 
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Those look like front attaching point for cal-trac traction bars, a lot of drag racers used them,
The easiest way to tell a 9" from an 8" isyou can use a socket and ratchet on all the nuts to remove the 8" carrier and the 9" you cannot.
That's been my experience anyway.
 
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Slipkid you gotta post a pic of your car. I want to see how those side pipes look from other than under the car. Don't worry if it's rough it ain't done yet. I would spend the money and get braided hose and AN fittings for the fuel line. 30 psi spraying on hot exhaust gets ugly quick.
 
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Slipkid you gotta post a pic of your car. I want to see how those side pipes look from other than under the car. Don't worry if it's rough it ain't done yet. I would spend the money and get braided hose and AN fittings for the fuel line. 30 psi spraying on hot exhaust gets ugly quick.
Ask and ye shall receive! (just don't get used to that lol). I took the time to take some pics while warming her up to hook up the new code reader. More on that later..

1963 Ford Falcon.png

I just had to make a old b/w pic. It just seems right :)
 
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Gonna make yoose read through this to get to the next beauty pic...

I got a Innova code reader from "lionparts_powersports" on ebay (super fast shipping) yesterday. $33. Read through the manual which is very in depth and thick!

I could NOT find the single wire grey plug...Tried it without and alls I got was goose eggs. Soo... I searched and searched and alls I could find is this :

grey plug 002.jpg

This plug is over on the opposite side of the test port. I was assuming they were near each other, or at least should be in a non-swapped car. I don't know maybe someone could help me out there.

grey plug.jpg
I don't just want to willy nilly connect to wires I don't know what they are. I can make a jumper easy enough just need to find out what that is. The book says there are other plugs on some cars that look the same but are for other things.
 
This may or may not be difficult, find the ground wires that the computer needs, you have a wire diagram?
I have the one in my Haynes manual and one I found online. Kinda using both to verify the other. Figured I would start at the computer and trace the wires to wherever they go and make sure they go to the right place. Not real keen on that because I'll have to open the harness tape job to follow them. I don't really want to get into that now while I have the dash guts hangin out already. I'll look closer at it maybe I can figure out a different way to get by with.
 
I have a PDF of the Painless instruction booklet for EFI conversion it might not match exactly what you have but I've found it to be very consistent for wire colors when junkyarding. I'll send it to you PM . I don't think I can post it here, 28 copyrighted pages.
 
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I GOT CODES!!

I spent the morning weeding through wire's, fixing and cleaning. Checked the b/w wire, tan wire, tan/lime green. Pulled the computer out. Verified continuity to it from plugs put it back together and now I get codes. Also peeled a group of wires off the header doesn't look burnt through, are next to firewall below heads and above collector right where you can't get a good look at it.

So for those with a inquiring mind, here they are:

31 oEVP or PFE circuit below voltage67 oNeutral Pressure + Drive Switch Fail
- open circuit - MLP out of range
81 oAir Diverter Solenoid Fault
IAC Fault / Air Injecter Fault
82 oAir Diverter Solenoid Fault
85 oCanister Purge Solenoid Fail87 oFuel Pump Primary Circuit Fault
84 oEGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Fail
*Test was to verify computer is being read, not warmed up or running.

So I have to figure out. the issues. There is no canister anymore. It has a new IAC. Need to find out how Neutral switches need to be delt with. EGR maybe because of low vacuum? Air Diverter is the IAC I am guessing. Have to figure out what these are and what they do.