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Progress Thread 1963 Falcor GT?

  • Thread starter Thread starter slipkid269
  • Start date Start date Jun 26, 2021
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
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polk county florida
Jun 30, 2021
#21
  • Jun 30, 2021
  • #21
I think we can work with this thread, a title adjustment, move to the correct forum and you're all set.
Oh, one thing though, well, maybe more than one thing, but right now it weighs on my mind. That copper fuel line has gotta go, bad for business.
We have another Falcon aficionado, he has taken a more 'custom' approach, also a 5.0 push rod swapped old pickup, he had some issues with computer wiring (I think) that would be a good read too.

1989 302 swap in 49 Ford F1 starts one day not the next

Hello all, I have a 1949 Ford F1 with a lopo 302 from a 1989 crown vic with shorty headers and an Explorer intake manifold. I am having a heck of a time getting this to run. I could not get it to start to set base idle this past month from what I thought was just being too cold. Then I...
stangnet.com
Some things are different like he used a non HO engine so don't get confused.
 
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slipkid269

Active Member
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Jun 30, 2021
#22
  • Jun 30, 2021
  • #22
Cool you did the thinkin' for me and I don't have to stick to whats relevant to the post. The Falcon GT thing is starting to work for me though my accountant likes Falcor. I will be checkin out the other guy's Falcon page for sure see whats up. Why is the copper line not so good? I trust your advice, just curious.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,872
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polk county florida
Jun 30, 2021
#23
  • Jun 30, 2021
  • #23
Soft metal, very susceptible to heat, think about it, ever see copper tubing used in the auto industry? Well at least not since the 1900's.
Trust my advice?? That may get you in trouble with the accountant.
I spend a fair amount of time hiding in the back yard, I'm only allowed in the house if my hands are clean and not holding car parts.
 

slipkid269

Active Member
Jun 24, 2021
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Michigan
Jun 30, 2021
#24
  • Jun 30, 2021
  • #24
General karthief said:
Soft metal, very susceptible to heat, think about it, ever see copper tubing used in the auto industry? Well at least not since the 1900's.
Trust my advice?? That may get you in trouble with the accountant.
I spend a fair amount of time hiding in the back yard, I'm only allowed in the house if my hands are clean and not holding car parts.
Click to expand...
lol noted.
 

Mr.Kelley

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Aug 9, 2019
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San Diego Ca
Jun 30, 2021
#25
  • Jun 30, 2021
  • #25
You'll be happy with it when the bugs are worked out. I think I'm a little ways ahead of you on pretty much the same build. Mine is down right now with a cracked brake line. I have a 4R70W in mine. I had to add traction bars to keep the drive shaft from hitting the tunnel during hard shifts. Here's a couple pics.
 

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slipkid269

Active Member
Jun 24, 2021
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Jun 30, 2021
#26
  • Jun 30, 2021
  • #26
Mr.Kelley said:
You'll be happy with it when the bugs are worked out. I think I'm a little ways ahead of you on pretty much the same build. Mine is down right now with a cracked brake line. I have a 4R70W in mine. I had to add traction bars to keep the drive shaft from hitting the tunnel during hard shifts. Here's a couple pics.
Click to expand...
I was checkin that out this morning. Really nice. Not so sure mine will end up as shiny but all the work I do will be towards a nice paint job in the end. Till then the standard flat black. It's funny when I first got mine it had the same hub caps on it. When I first saw the car I thought they were moon disks but just hub caps, close lookin though. Here's a pic regarding drive shafts hitting the floor!


​
Seller told me it's where the owner before him "cut it out to lower it". Seems kinda ripped up for being cut out. He also said it was a drag car in a previous life. I think I can do a better job at repairing it than the tin screwed over it to hide it and spray bombed, from the drivers side laying on the ground I'm guessin. Also there is this:


​
Looks like whats left of some kinda ladder/link bar I think. Probably when that hole was made the rear with the link HAD to be removed. Putting what I was told was supposed to be a 9" in it's place. hmm...

​

Another rainy day here in Michigan only get to think about what to do. Bench racin's good too and the hands stay cleaner. Thanks for checkin out my post, time to head out make some more room in the garage. One day I'll get the car in there.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Jul 1, 2021
#27
  • Jul 1, 2021
  • #27
Those look like front attaching point for cal-trac traction bars, a lot of drag racers used them,
The easiest way to tell a 9" from an 8" isyou can use a socket and ratchet on all the nuts to remove the 8" carrier and the 9" you cannot.
That's been my experience anyway.
 
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Mr.Kelley

Active Member
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194
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San Diego Ca
Jul 1, 2021
#28
  • Jul 1, 2021
  • #28
Slipkid you gotta post a pic of your car. I want to see how those side pipes look from other than under the car. Don't worry if it's rough it ain't done yet. I would spend the money and get braided hose and AN fittings for the fuel line. 30 psi spraying on hot exhaust gets ugly quick.
 

slipkid269

Active Member
Jun 24, 2021
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Michigan
Jul 2, 2021
#29
  • Jul 2, 2021
  • #29
Mr.Kelley said:
Slipkid you gotta post a pic of your car. I want to see how those side pipes look from other than under the car. Don't worry if it's rough it ain't done yet. I would spend the money and get braided hose and AN fittings for the fuel line. 30 psi spraying on hot exhaust gets ugly quick.
Click to expand...
Ask and ye shall receive! (just don't get used to that lol). I took the time to take some pics while warming her up to hook up the new code reader. More on that later..


I just had to make a old b/w pic. It just seems right ​
 
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slipkid269

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Jun 24, 2021
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Jul 2, 2021
#30
  • Jul 2, 2021
  • #30
Gonna make yoose read through this to get to the next beauty pic...

I got a Innova code reader from "lionparts_powersports" on ebay (super fast shipping) yesterday. $33. Read through the manual which is very in depth and thick!

I could NOT find the single wire grey plug...Tried it without and alls I got was goose eggs. Soo... I searched and searched and alls I could find is this :

​

This plug is over on the opposite side of the test port. I was assuming they were near each other, or at least should be in a non-swapped car. I don't know maybe someone could help me out there.

​
I don't just want to willy nilly connect to wires I don't know what they are. I can make a jumper easy enough just need to find out what that is. The book says there are other plugs on some cars that look the same but are for other things.
 

slipkid269

Active Member
Jun 24, 2021
112
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Michigan
Jul 2, 2021
#31
  • Jul 2, 2021
  • #31
Beauty Pic. Like I said here's some more!




​
First nice day in a month here in the mitten state. Clear skies posted for the next week, woo hoo!
 
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slipkid269

Active Member
Jun 24, 2021
112
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Michigan
Jul 2, 2021
#32
  • Jul 2, 2021
  • #32
Well I made a jumper wire. The wiring diagram says tan/red is the grey plug, nothing. No code...
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
27,872
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polk county florida
Jul 2, 2021
#33
  • Jul 2, 2021
  • #33
This may or may not be difficult, find the ground wires that the computer needs, you have a wire diagram?
 

HemiRick

I'd be looking at jacking under the house
Jun 28, 2020
723
272
73
Memphis TN
Jul 3, 2021
#34
  • Jul 3, 2021
  • #34
Do you have a check engine light for the computer to flash?
 

slipkid269

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Jun 24, 2021
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Michigan
Jul 3, 2021
#35
  • Jul 3, 2021
  • #35
General karthief said:
This may or may not be difficult, find the ground wires that the computer needs, you have a wire diagram?
Click to expand...
I have the one in my Haynes manual and one I found online. Kinda using both to verify the other. Figured I would start at the computer and trace the wires to wherever they go and make sure they go to the right place. Not real keen on that because I'll have to open the harness tape job to follow them. I don't really want to get into that now while I have the dash guts hangin out already. I'll look closer at it maybe I can figure out a different way to get by with.
 

slipkid269

Active Member
Jun 24, 2021
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Michigan
Jul 3, 2021
#36
  • Jul 3, 2021
  • #36
HemiRick said:
Do you have a check engine light for the computer to flash?
Click to expand...
No, No working dash light. I do have a light on the dash to wire too but that's a future project.
 

Mr.Kelley

Active Member
Aug 9, 2019
194
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53
San Diego Ca
Jul 3, 2021
#37
  • Jul 3, 2021
  • #37
I have a PDF of the Painless instruction booklet for EFI conversion it might not match exactly what you have but I've found it to be very consistent for wire colors when junkyarding. I'll send it to you PM . I don't think I can post it here, 28 copyrighted pages.
 
Last edited: Jul 3, 2021

Mr.Kelley

Active Member
Aug 9, 2019
194
117
53
San Diego Ca
Jul 3, 2021
#38
  • Jul 3, 2021
  • #38
Just sent it to you as an attachment in your PM box
 
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slipkid269

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Jun 24, 2021
112
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Michigan
Jul 3, 2021
#39
  • Jul 3, 2021
  • #39
Mr.Kelley said:
Just sent it to you as an attachment in your PM box
Click to expand...
Hey that has all kinds of good stuff! Thanks
 

slipkid269

Active Member
Jun 24, 2021
112
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Michigan
Jul 3, 2021
#40
  • Jul 3, 2021
  • #40
I GOT CODES!!

I spent the morning weeding through wire's, fixing and cleaning. Checked the b/w wire, tan wire, tan/lime green. Pulled the computer out. Verified continuity to it from plugs put it back together and now I get codes. Also peeled a group of wires off the header doesn't look burnt through, are next to firewall below heads and above collector right where you can't get a good look at it.

So for those with a inquiring mind, here they are:

31 oEVP or PFE circuit below voltage67 oNeutral Pressure + Drive Switch Fail
- open circuit - MLP out of range
81 oAir Diverter Solenoid Fault
IAC Fault / Air Injecter Fault
82 oAir Diverter Solenoid Fault
85 oCanister Purge Solenoid Fail87 oFuel Pump Primary Circuit Fault
84 oEGR Vacuum Regulator Circuit Fail
*Test was to verify computer is being read, not warmed up or running.

So I have to figure out. the issues. There is no canister anymore. It has a new IAC. Need to find out how Neutral switches need to be delt with. EGR maybe because of low vacuum? Air Diverter is the IAC I am guessing. Have to figure out what these are and what they do.
 
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