It is more factory looking when finished ,but the spot welder doesnt always reach into every spot like you can with a mig welder ,i still use a mig in a lot of places
A small voice in my head is starting to think that maybe I could pull this off. I'd better not listen to it.
We'll see how I feel once I start removing sheetmetal that will be replaced no matter what. Might be worth a shot if I get to spend some more time here.
The more I look at the pictures you've taken during all these conversions, the more I see how every part fits together. Looks very doable. The trick is just keeping it level when you're installing the new metal.
Yep ,the metal comes in a kit ,that is the only way to get the needed metal . I buy it in un welded form for 67-68 but 65 -66only comes as a welded side so you have to remove what you do not need ,what is left over in the kit i either use on another project or sell to someone needing itI do have a question about this conversion: do you buy the upper door frame as part of a larger parts kit? I ask because I was looking at the door frames that Dynacorn offers and couldn't really find anything for '65-'66 other than a full door frame that includes the rocker and a-pillar.
The more I look at the pictures you've taken during all these conversions, the more I see how every part fits together. Looks very doable. The trick is just keeping it level when you're installing the new metal.
The fast back measurements are different for a fast back ,you really need a fastback to get the measurements from ,i have both a 65 and a 67 for measurements. It does have to be level and square or you will have a twisted car when finishedThere are a lot of important things, but another I suspect is to measure your car before cutting it up and to verify you are duplicating those measurements before doing any welding. Lots of measuring!