Hey Mike, I looked at your picture of the hood. It looks like something was set on it or some fluid was on it.
Do you know what caused the mark?
Do you know what caused the mark?
Build Thread 1978 Fairmont. I bet somebody back home’s thinkin’…I wonder why he don’t write..?
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Nah, admittedly he took me to the airport within 45 minutes after I shot it.....soooo......ok, you may be right......
- Mar 7, 2002
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Running true to form...
Clearly, there is a big difference between the Hot Rod black that summit sells, and the PPG brand that is pictured above..
Painting the hood was literally "point and shoot". This pic taken immediately after putting the gun down, long before the paint started to flatten.
As to be expected, painting anything black will exaggerate flaws, and defects, and I have them, but I was just happy that the paint laid down w/o any of the striping, orange peel, and dry spray issues I had the last time I was trying to paint something.
After a couple of hours, I thought it was dry enough to start reassembly, but as usual, what I think, and what is reality are usually far apart.
Taken right before I fcked it up. Everything drying and laying out nicely.
In order to force myself to leave it alone, I decided to wash the car..that took another hour.
Then I started putting it together.
Put the rear vents on....
No problem.
Put the aerocatch hood pins on.
No problem.
I leaned the hood against the wall so that I could put the heat shield insulation underneath..thinking that I had sufficiently padded the orange part ( which was never repainted, and dry since Dave painted it)
And put that sht on the underside.
Then checked the hood to find that the padding had slipped,..and was making contact with the freshly painted black part....
And left a significant impression.
The tires get here today..As much as I want to leave ride height alone, and just let the taller tire make up the rake angle I’m wanting, the fact of the matter is they are too close to making contact with the quarter. If I have to raise the rear for any reason, I’m gonna have to probably alter the front a little too.
The car is actually too low in reality,..I can’t even get the thing out of the driveway w/o coming and going nose first. The oil pan is scary low...and if I don’t raise the front after putting that taller tire on back, it’ll get even worse. We’ll see what it looks like soon enough.
Seems that going to bed at 9 puts me in a “ auto-wake” mode riiight around 4:30-4:45 AM...that’s almost 8 hours, and now that fckin daylight savings time has been changed back, the sun peeks in at 5. Once that happens...i’m doomed. I never go back to sleep. So....here I am..wide the hell awake at 6. I could go to bed later, and get up at later, but what difference would that make anyway?
The 3AMD has changed with the clock too, coincidentally.....Let there be something that bugs me, and now he‘s there at 4AM...freakin dick.
Today, of course we talked about the hood...He wanted to know whether or not I’m gonna repaint it.
I cant “ rub it out” that’s for sure..I don’t know if I can spot it in,..If I was Dave, I’m sure it could be done..But I’m not Dave.
@Davedacarpainter ?
The car is now a pain in the dick to cold start,...requiring several restarts after it catches and sputters..I’ll also tap Steve this morning. @a91what.
The screech that I thought was gone is still alive and well...As I drill down trying to determine where it’s coming from, I think it only starts happening in 3rd gear..That’ll be a Sunday test to confirm that for sure, but I’m about 90% sure that’s the deal. And why it’s only happening in 3rd is beyond me.( maybe in 4th too, but to confirm that at that speed needs some serious deserted road). In hindsight, the old BOV, damaged as it was wasnt to blame. You’d think if I had a boost leak, the noise would be there regardless of the gear. But once it starts, it stays the same pitch/ level and will stop immediately if I lift. So it’s not speed related either. I only know that I want the damn thing gone.
Sorry Mike, I’ve been a little busy as of late and haven’t been around enough.
Want me to call? Or am I too late to help?
Want me to call? Or am I too late to help?
Call Dave...but you’re too late to do anything other than tell me that I’m gonna have to take the remaining paint, and repaint that bitch.
Nonetheless...call me please, I have a question about the bleed through.
So where are the pictures of the repainted/repainted hood? Or is it repainted/repainted/repainted? I lose track.
I know you can't sit there knowing that fcked up paint is sitting in the basement just waiting for a redo.
I know you can't sit there knowing that fcked up paint is sitting in the basement just waiting for a redo.
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It’s getting repainted today after it gets a little later this morning. I spoke with Dave last night, and the fix is a total repaint. Fortunately, it seems much easier than it was the last time i tried it, and excepting the bleed through and where i managed to fck it up,..it would’ve been a keeper. When it warms up in about 2 hours, i’ll be sanding again.
Then i’m leaving that bitch alone until Wed night.
If you ever find yourself on the short bus heading to fcked-up town...That’s where you’ll find me.
Nothing I have to say today ends well..
Nothing.
Lets start with the hood..Primary objective #1. After talking with Dave, and having the requisite 600 grit paper, I sanded that thing till it was just about as flat and smooth as any DIY garage hack could expect.
Since I only had pinstripe tape to serve as fine line tape, I used it.
The paint went down the same as it did last time,...But as it started drying it looks like it’s striped.
I just went down there to check, it looks like maybe its evening out, but I ain't touching it...
I moved the Jag out and put it in the driveway, and put the Monster upstairs in the 2 car thats on the main level.
While I was working on the hood, I took time out to take the rear wheels, and the new drag radials to have them swapped.
The rat bastards charged me 86 bucks to dismount the street tires, and mount and balance the 325/45/17 drag radials. I Told them to leave the shipping labels on the tires in the event that they wouldn't fit..and I'd have to re-do it all and send them back, but after picking them up, and paying almost 100 to have two tires mounted that were carried in....I was gonna MAKE those bitches fit.
When I got them bolted up, and the car lowered onto the tires..it became evident real quick that they weren't gonna fit w/o cutting some metal..
This was the sacrifice I was willing to make to get them to fit..I figure, Ill have the winter to put the lip on, and mold it back in.
Once they were on though all that was left to do was a road test to see if they fix the tire spin problem..
I can say this about that.
It's Like I'm glued to the road..
It still has the screech.
And a new issue popped up on that road test...A clank in third gear. You can tap the gas, and it clanks, you can lift and it clanks..Couldn't make it happen in 2nd, didnt try it in 4th..I was so pissed..I drove it straight back home.
The one issue with the torque arm is how wrong the pinion angle looks. I followed the MM installation instructions, and they want the same positive angle that your engine is on. When you put a angle finder on the harmonic balancer, it reads 4degrees down angle front to back. Putting the pinion 4 degrees up angle theoretically put the pinion on that same plane.
Except the transmission is higher than the rear, and the driveshaft angles down, so...I have the driveshaft angled down, mating to a rear thats radically angled up.
All this to wonder if I've trashed my pinion bearing..and its making this drive/coast clank, or if I have something coming apart in the transmission.
And if either is the case, what happens when you drive it ( or attempt to) 550 miles?
And so here it is...the few days before another freaking car show, and yet one more fcking obstacle that prevents me from going to it.
Or I drive it, and blow something up 260 miles from home.
But the raised ride height, and those big assed rear tires put a real game face on the Monster.
( You can still see the shipping labels....they’re gone now)
Nothing I have to say today ends well..
Nothing.
Lets start with the hood..Primary objective #1. After talking with Dave, and having the requisite 600 grit paper, I sanded that thing till it was just about as flat and smooth as any DIY garage hack could expect.
Since I only had pinstripe tape to serve as fine line tape, I used it.
The paint went down the same as it did last time,...But as it started drying it looks like it’s striped.
I just went down there to check, it looks like maybe its evening out, but I ain't touching it...
I moved the Jag out and put it in the driveway, and put the Monster upstairs in the 2 car thats on the main level.
While I was working on the hood, I took time out to take the rear wheels, and the new drag radials to have them swapped.
The rat bastards charged me 86 bucks to dismount the street tires, and mount and balance the 325/45/17 drag radials. I Told them to leave the shipping labels on the tires in the event that they wouldn't fit..and I'd have to re-do it all and send them back, but after picking them up, and paying almost 100 to have two tires mounted that were carried in....I was gonna MAKE those bitches fit.
When I got them bolted up, and the car lowered onto the tires..it became evident real quick that they weren't gonna fit w/o cutting some metal..
This was the sacrifice I was willing to make to get them to fit..I figure, Ill have the winter to put the lip on, and mold it back in.
Once they were on though all that was left to do was a road test to see if they fix the tire spin problem..
I can say this about that.
It's Like I'm glued to the road..
It still has the screech.
And a new issue popped up on that road test...A clank in third gear. You can tap the gas, and it clanks, you can lift and it clanks..Couldn't make it happen in 2nd, didnt try it in 4th..I was so pissed..I drove it straight back home.
The one issue with the torque arm is how wrong the pinion angle looks. I followed the MM installation instructions, and they want the same positive angle that your engine is on. When you put a angle finder on the harmonic balancer, it reads 4degrees down angle front to back. Putting the pinion 4 degrees up angle theoretically put the pinion on that same plane.
Except the transmission is higher than the rear, and the driveshaft angles down, so...I have the driveshaft angled down, mating to a rear thats radically angled up.
All this to wonder if I've trashed my pinion bearing..and its making this drive/coast clank, or if I have something coming apart in the transmission.
And if either is the case, what happens when you drive it ( or attempt to) 550 miles?
And so here it is...the few days before another freaking car show, and yet one more fcking obstacle that prevents me from going to it.
Or I drive it, and blow something up 260 miles from home.
But the raised ride height, and those big assed rear tires put a real game face on the Monster.
( You can still see the shipping labels....they’re gone now)
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Pinion bearing noise for sure.
Geeze mate, This'll be another freekin Pyramus and Thisbe Ninja Edit. Sorry. Trans and axle parallel while working, not static. 3.5 degrees is the std engine angle, under load at WOT, so must the pinion angle be 3.5 under normal operating conditions. If not, Re angle it up or down so it sits right under normal operation. It
'll be as soft as heck, so you might have to video it. .
Who cares where the drive shaft is. You make the space, but always, unless you use the Opel/Holden/Ford Cortina style ist German, Mien herr Cardan joint CV, the prop shaft goes wherever. Drag racing rule 101...
See https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/suspension-chassis/580153-pinion-angle.html
Geeze mate, This'll be another freekin Pyramus and Thisbe Ninja Edit. Sorry. Trans and axle parallel while working, not static. 3.5 degrees is the std engine angle, under load at WOT, so must the pinion angle be 3.5 under normal operating conditions. If not, Re angle it up or down so it sits right under normal operation. It
'll be as soft as heck, so you might have to video it. .
Who cares where the drive shaft is. You make the space, but always, unless you use the Opel/Holden/Ford Cortina style ist German, Mien herr Cardan joint CV, the prop shaft goes wherever. Drag racing rule 101...
See https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/suspension-chassis/580153-pinion-angle.html
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Down here, our Holden Commodore VB VC VH VK - VS VT Statesman WH had a Driveshaft Centre Bearing for this reason.
The top pic is what mine looks like. It’s also what MM‘s pic looks like. the pinion “ up angle” matches the engines “down angle”, ( which is 4 degrees, NOT zero) but the driveshaft output is higher than the rear end pinion is, so, there is a difference between the two.
I’m thinking that the taller tires have something to do with pushing the angle offset even more radically the wrong way. The noise i’m hearing is the pinion bearing getting hammered ( maybe? 
)..The problem is, that there isn’t any down angle adjustment in this TA..I’d have to cut it apart, and reweld it.
)..The problem is, that there isn’t any down angle adjustment in this TA..I’d have to cut it apart, and reweld it.
I was waiting till now to discuss 2" Coyote/LMR 351w K member spacers.
I'm not a break even guy.
If its wrong at the aft, you can correct it at the fore. But since I know your coil over spring platforms, universal joint and other issues with ride height that's perfect at the front, your gonna have to, well......
So I'm thinking what your thinking Pinky...Dial in the TRIG and fly the MIG or TIG...
I'm not a break even guy.
If its wrong at the aft, you can correct it at the fore. But since I know your coil over spring platforms, universal joint and other issues with ride height that's perfect at the front, your gonna have to, well......
So I'm thinking what your thinking Pinky...Dial in the TRIG and fly the MIG or TIG...
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Well...its not something in the trans, and hopefully the pinion bearing has survived...
But Mike's "better mousetrap" Just as good as MM's torque arm failed, and allowed the rear pinion angle to rotate up to 20 degrees...
Bent like a bitch.
All I can do now is to cut it at the bend. Bend it back straight, and weld another piece of rectangular thick wall tubing under it along its length.
On the bright side, its fixable, just not tonight.
Equally on the bright side...
I have no steel, all I can do tonight is cut that bitch. Tomorrow I'll go down, and get me a piece of steel, and Tomorrow night, hopefully have this problem solved.
But Mike's "better mousetrap" Just as good as MM's torque arm failed, and allowed the rear pinion angle to rotate up to 20 degrees...
Bent like a bitch.
All I can do now is to cut it at the bend. Bend it back straight, and weld another piece of rectangular thick wall tubing under it along its length.
On the bright side, its fixable, just not tonight.
Equally on the bright side...
I have no steel, all I can do tonight is cut that bitch. Tomorrow I'll go down, and get me a piece of steel, and Tomorrow night, hopefully have this problem solved.
I always thought you put the pinion down about 2-4 degrees less than the driveline, so under acceleration was the pinion rotates up, it come in line and doesn't go above the driveshaft angle. I have no idea what dean drew....if your pinion is 30 degrees you need about 7 cv joints in that beach. I guess that's NZ for 3.0 or 3.5. I need a universal translator!
I suspected that torque arm wasn't ok with the TooJZ hit full song with some sticky tars on it.
But what do I know..I have a car with leaf springs.
I suspected that torque arm wasn't ok with the TooJZ hit full song with some sticky tars on it.
But what do I know..I have a car with leaf springs.
- May 8, 2006
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Mike, brilliant idea! Adjusting the pinion angle via the gas pedal. I like the concept, but maybe you should utilize a knob or something in future iterations.
Woz Not My Diagram. It should have had decimals in it. It can be decimated by traditional Roman "stoning, clubbing, or stabbing". But in this case, I've added a Peaceful Latin~ Indo European Decimal Point.I always thought you put the pinion down about 2-4 degrees less than the driveline, so under acceleration was the pinion rotates up, it come in line and doesn't go above the driveshaft angle. I have no idea what dean drew....if your pinion is 30 degrees you need about 7 cv joints in that beach. I guess that's NZ for 3.0 or 3.5. I need a universal translator!
I suspected that torque arm wasn't ok with the TooJZ hit full song with some sticky tars on it.
But what do I know..I have a car with leaf springs.
I'd like a dog biscuit and a pat on the head. Or I'll Sulk...
I always thought you put the pinion down about 2-4 degrees less than the driveline, so under acceleration was the pinion rotates up, it come in line and doesn't go above the driveshaft angle. I have no idea what dean drew....if your pinion is 30 degrees you need about 7 cv joints in that beach. I guess that's NZ for 3.0 or 3.5. I need a universal translator!
I suspected that torque arm wasn't ok with the TooJZ hit full song with some sticky tars on it.
But what do I know..I have a car with leaf springs.
Down pinion angle only applies to 4 link, or leaf spring cars. it’s done to offset the amount of axle wind up that happens under acceleration. A torque arm applies the potential axle rotation to the body of the car by lifting the cars weight.. While there is still a small amount of twist, it’s tempered by the weight of the car. The more it tries to twist, the more weight gets transferred directly back to the tires, the harder the bite. ( If there is sufficient grip in the tires)
I bent that thing the very first time i hammered the throttle with the new tires..It bent it so bad, it was noticeable...I thought I had a loose wheel, and I turned around and limped it back home.
After checking that the tires were tight, I went back out, and it was then that i heard the clank that was happening in a coast/drive scenario..
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