Build Thread 1978 Fairmont. I bet somebody back home’s thinkin’…I wonder why he don’t write..?

As stated...the attachment is the tune file for Steve to tweak. The Bov has already had its 15 seconds of fame...it’s posted at 602. And it’s toast...Now so is my left index finger.

I was holding the BOV in my left hand, and trying to see if I could get a screwdriver under the folded piece to see maybe if it could be bent back before tossing it...I couldn’t get the screwdriver under the piece of metal, so I pushed harder....
In the end, the piece broke off, and the screwdriver went on to impale my index finger, and exit that same piece of flesh 1/2” farther back.

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Its just a flesh wound....;)

Fortunately it was a tiny assed screwdriver, so it only left a small hole... But that BOV will never see a ride on the Monster ever again.
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(get well soon, the project will continue to butt hurt Luddites like me....But I care)
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well.....it’s back together..we’ll see what happens i guess.
It came with a seriously stiff spring option..I chose to leave the weenie ass that’s in there...I don’t know if I’ll need to upgrade, but if I do,..I have it.
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Clearly...the main reason that an actual Tial BOV is 250.00 and this one was 1 fifth of that, is the savings from not using pretty packaging..:rolleyes:
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100% pure Chinee...No instructions, a v band clamp that couldn’t possible be made any cheaper, and a threaded insert on top that is screwed into the top from the underneath using LH threads..

What do ya spouse happens when to try to screw the airline fitting into the RH threads of the insert that is screwed in from the underside with LH threads?
* Hint...if you guessed that you can’t tighten up the airline fitting w/o loosening the threaded insert, go to the kitchen and get yourself a cookie.
I had to take it apart, loosen it, screw in the airline fitting, glob red loctite on the insert fitting, tighten it, and wait till it set...
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Then....I put it together...Now everything is all lovey-dovey.
 
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My room is booked for this upcoming show in P.C. Short of some more time in the drivers’ seat making sure I’m not gonna get stranded somewhere, the next thing that I’ll have to do, is scuff the OG hood, mask and paint it. The last time I had a spray gun in my hands turned into a flaming jug fck when trying to paint the hood.
I now have two hoods, and neither of them are w/o their related headache to make them presentable.

The last hood that was on it is painted, ( poorly) but it crowns because I didn’t pay attention to that when I was repairing the break in the frame on the underside. Making a cut in that frame, and trying to relieve that crown will almost assuredly cause the bodywork above, and/or the paint to crack. ( I’m betting) Add to that that I have no hood scoop that will work. ( The low rise front facing scoop that I had on that hood is ABS plastic..I cannot get studs to bond to that freakin ABS and hold for any period of time.) My only perceived option to a more permanent solution is to rivet some kind of plate there like a Dzus fastener.

I don’t know...maybe I’ll try that.

The OG hood had to be repaired because of poor bodywork adhesion, either from my improper prep work ( probably the case) or because the hot assed turbo underneath caused it to separate. For whatever reason why it happened, I had to fix that. Fixing that requires a repaint of that area, and if i’m doing that,...I gotta paint the whole hood.

The benefit to using the OG hood, is that it fits nicely. ( providing I cut the Aerocatch fastener holes in the right place).
But there is also a small dent up front that I caused when removing the thing that I was hoping our PDR guy at work might be able to coax out...and if not...is right up front.....staring back at me.
The OG hood has those Buick GS nostrils in it...I made those damn things...I like that hood.

But i gotta paint it...and even after that, it has that dent,..and then there are those Aerocatch things........
Trying to chose the lesser of two evils.
 
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We want it to idle around 14.4 our last round of changes to get the cam issue worked out changed the fuel requirements drastically.
I didn’t run it up to temp yesterday, so I don’t know yet what the hot idle AFR is zactly. I do know that I will be calling Nitto to inquire about their tires (again). Now that I have remedied the turbo lag, getting the car to hook is next.
 
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_
\rak\ noun
Inclination from the horizontal: SLOPE

I guess I’m dooming any hope of having a good handling car in favor of one that moves forward faster...I ordered a set of M&H race master drag radials today. Presently, the car has a 315/35/17 on it. While that is certainly nice and fat enough for me, it has always lacked the nose down rake that I associate with a hot rod. Adding additional ride height to the rear shocks would accomplish that, but would also add a gap between the top of the tire, and the bottom of the wheel lip.
It would also change the rear geometry of the rear panhard bar. And in the end, wouldn’t do dick for traction.

So...I fixed two of the three.


M&H Racemaster Radial Drag Race Tires ROD-20​

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Tire, Drag Radial, 325 /45R17, Radial, Blackwall, Each
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Same section width, but two inches taller over all. It’ll raise the rear an inch, fill the wheel well with more tire, give me the traction that has now pulled an Elvis, and left the building....
And.....
Add a slight forward Rake that I want.

It’s turning out to be a GREAT day...in more ways than 1.
 
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Cookie was nice.

25 degrees of timing all in at 4000 rpm, with 0.5 pound pressure retard thereafter. And the stiff Suspension spring for 25 pounds of boost. In the year 25-25...Been there with an 11:1 compression ratio turbo...my wife's.

Don't calibrate with too little advance, go right to the wire, and back off when you hear knock. That way your fuel table will be populated right. Don't do what you did with Black Mamba.

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I had Toyo R888’s on my 2011 GT, and those were awesome. They are a soft compound road racing oriented “street” tire, and boy did they hook. I would recommend them if you want to keep some handling capability. Of course I was only making maybe 450 horsepower at the crank, so I can’t say how well they work on 500+ to the wheels.
 
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G‘ Morning non-regulars..

As we all wait to see the outcome of this election, just know that I will continue to blather on here. Most of it won’t matter one tiny bit,..but that’s never stopped me before. What you look for from me when you read what I write is that
One,
Tiny,
Tidbit
of something that may or may not be of any redeeming value.

Today is a landmark day of sorts. For the first time since I decided to put the 2JZ in the car....the car “needs“ nothing. No hard/no start, no leaks, the gauges all work, ( now including the speedo) it makes big boost, and there is zero lag. It doesn’t make any high pitched screeching noises, and it goes straight ( sometimes) when you mat the pedal. That too will be remedied when those big assed tires get here today. ( For the second time)
One week from today I’ll take it to PC fla. That amounts to a 550 mile round trip. The last time the Monster saw that kind of road trip was over two years ago, and that version was a completely different version of the Monster.
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Its like the current Version of the monster is a BMW “M” car..
BMW literally guts the version of the base platform when building a M version of that car..it gets a different engine, trans, rear, brakes, suspension, seats, tires, and in a lot of cases...different body work.

Excepting the rear end itself, and the shocks/ struts...Everything in the new Monster is different from the two year old you see above..Better engine, waaay more power, better trans, better suspension, electric power steering, different brake system, different seats, different wheels, different shifter, different rear tail lights, different fuel system, different audio system, different cooling system...different cosmetics.

In two years. Its like a mega-monster.
 
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The car looks great. I hope you have antibiotics for that puncture wound and your tetanus shot is up to date . Maybe you sterilize your automotive tools, but for me, I doubt some WD-40 or LPS3 does more than slow down rust.