You got nothing from me....Trust me on this...,the silent treatment is the better of the two possible replies sometimes.
(unless you just prefer having bite marks on your ass)
View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xCChxBSRo1Y
Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xCChxBSRo1Y
My eye's and ears hurt now...Thanks for that Dave...
What a suck ass band those guys were....Them and Motley Crue....In a contest for who sucks ass worse....Hard to choose.
Yes,..I've ordered the stuff. The pump will be here tomorrow, and the fittings,....probably here by Friday. Sunday will be playday.
I really need to get going on my car. Maybe I should pretend I am old and decrepit and have a surgery coming up. 
What are you on about?I really need to get going on my car. Maybe I should pretend I am old and decrepit and have a surgery coming up.
I'm not pretending that I am old and decrepit, and have a surgery coming up....
I do have a surgery coming up...One week from today.
According to the UPS tracker, My junk is s'posed to be at my house when I get home tonight.
That'll mean that the wife will see it...
Try as I may, I diligently watched the UPS-O-Meter to see if that damn stuff was delivered so that I could go skink it away before she got home tonight. But even at 4 PM it ain't there yet.
I can hear it now...
" Aren't you gonna be making less than HALF of your normal wage for the next two months?...And when do you think in those next two months do you think that you're gonna be able to even drive that thing....???!!!
Uhhhhhhhh
Now in actuality, If I can get that fuel pump swapped tomorrow morning, then the answer to one of those questions is.............Saturday night...
Come hell or high water, I built this btch to drive it, to show it off, and to have fun while doing both. And this year, due mostly to an exceptionally wet summer, and the knowledge that "sumpin' aint right back there" has kept the Monster caged.
I'm changing that This Saturday night.
Well,....Provided I'm not dead at her hands..........Yeah.............If I'm not dead.......,
Then I'll definitely drive it.
That'll mean that the wife will see it...
Try as I may, I diligently watched the UPS-O-Meter to see if that damn stuff was delivered so that I could go skink it away before she got home tonight. But even at 4 PM it ain't there yet.
I can hear it now...
" Aren't you gonna be making less than HALF of your normal wage for the next two months?...And when do you think in those next two months do you think that you're gonna be able to even drive that thing....???!!!
Uhhhhhhhh
Now in actuality, If I can get that fuel pump swapped tomorrow morning, then the answer to one of those questions is.............Saturday night...
Come hell or high water, I built this btch to drive it, to show it off, and to have fun while doing both. And this year, due mostly to an exceptionally wet summer, and the knowledge that "sumpin' aint right back there" has kept the Monster caged.
I'm changing that This Saturday night.
Well,....Provided I'm not dead at her hands..........Yeah.............If I'm not dead.......,
Then I'll definitely drive it.
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I got home tonight and the stuff was there. So was "she".
Made no mention of the stuff sitting on the front porch...(I quickly moved the stuff out of sight)
I opened the trunk, and unscrewed the access plate that I cut into the trunk floor the last time I had to dick with this tank.
Then had my hopes of getting it converted over dashed to the ground.
(See,..I also cut a hole in top of the tank last time too,.....it's directly under the above cover plate.)
But,......I thought that I had screwed the tank cover plate on as well...
Nope.
I riveted it. And I did this while the tank was out. And the access hole in the trunk is significantly covering the access panel on the tank.
In other words,...I cannot get to all of the rivets on the tank panel from the access panel through the trunk floor.
The gas tank is freakin' full to the brim....I'd have to cut even more of the trunk floor to get to all of the rivets,.. then I'd have to drill them out into a full tank of gas...
I won't have a prayer of getting that done in a couple of hours tomorrow,.....and I'm adding to the hack that's already going on in that tank.
I'm pssed.
If I leave that cover plate in place on the tank, and cut the 3.25" hole into a tank full of gas, I risk filling the tank w/ metal shavings, and starting a major fire if there was a spark or some weird sht happening related to drilling such a big hole.
I think I'm dead in the water.
If I leave everything "as is" the car will probably make the cruise in due to the fact that it's all interstate,...Probably.
It could also strand me along the interstate somewhere.
The current tank has been extensively modified. The original fuel level sender hole has been welded shut. There is a sump on one side that I abandoned because it put the pump directly behind the right rear tire. There is an additional sump on the opposite side of the tank that I'm currently using that'll have to be capped. There is a fuel level sender cut into the top of the tank, and an access plate covering the honkin hole that I had to cut so that I could completely remove the red placenta that occurred as a result of trying to coat the tank the last time..
I'm almost at the point of saying ....throw the existing tank away, and starting all this over w/ a new tank.....maybe even a fuel cell.
Made no mention of the stuff sitting on the front porch...(I quickly moved the stuff out of sight)
I opened the trunk, and unscrewed the access plate that I cut into the trunk floor the last time I had to dick with this tank.
Then had my hopes of getting it converted over dashed to the ground.
(See,..I also cut a hole in top of the tank last time too,.....it's directly under the above cover plate.)
But,......I thought that I had screwed the tank cover plate on as well...
Nope.
I riveted it. And I did this while the tank was out. And the access hole in the trunk is significantly covering the access panel on the tank.
In other words,...I cannot get to all of the rivets on the tank panel from the access panel through the trunk floor.
The gas tank is freakin' full to the brim....I'd have to cut even more of the trunk floor to get to all of the rivets,.. then I'd have to drill them out into a full tank of gas...
I won't have a prayer of getting that done in a couple of hours tomorrow,.....and I'm adding to the hack that's already going on in that tank.
I'm pssed.
If I leave that cover plate in place on the tank, and cut the 3.25" hole into a tank full of gas, I risk filling the tank w/ metal shavings, and starting a major fire if there was a spark or some weird sht happening related to drilling such a big hole.
I think I'm dead in the water.
If I leave everything "as is" the car will probably make the cruise in due to the fact that it's all interstate,...Probably.
It could also strand me along the interstate somewhere.
The current tank has been extensively modified. The original fuel level sender hole has been welded shut. There is a sump on one side that I abandoned because it put the pump directly behind the right rear tire. There is an additional sump on the opposite side of the tank that I'm currently using that'll have to be capped. There is a fuel level sender cut into the top of the tank, and an access plate covering the honkin hole that I had to cut so that I could completely remove the red placenta that occurred as a result of trying to coat the tank the last time..
I'm almost at the point of saying ....throw the existing tank away, and starting all this over w/ a new tank.....maybe even a fuel cell.
Two things real quick.
The old man is a Rugby Union player from way back, real jock. He had knee trouble, a lot of it. Left Moo Zealand and went to South Africa, had knee surgery at 25. When he was 35 and 37 ran two Ultra Marothons.
So do both knees, and good fortune.
I joined up here because I love Mustangs, and anything Stang related.
Got pi%%ed off with the bad advice the AreoMotive dude gave you.
Get emptying .......
I've never heard more Horse Sh!+ over heat creating cavitation in my life. Cavitation happens when entrained air has a flow variance environment to let already entrained air to break into the vapour pressure zone. Flow rate and pressure and a poor shape of the pipe it travels in. Heat is a minor issue. You stop it at the entry when gasoline is pumped. Old diaphram pumps don't cavitate much, but a return line electric pump is a perfect environ to get air in if it has no stillage/swirl pot
Watch this.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ium8jf4Jm04
A stillage pot fixes crap like this....Ford engineered around the situation. In your case, Imho, you need only a freekin stillage pot to break down supercritical speeds which create a standing wave. NZCE Physics 101. Lab Technician. BTDT.
Early stuff, really needs a stillage pot to be 100% safe over the life of a vehicle. Ford used a combination of new pickup and tank shape to do the same job as a full stillage pot. As age degrades parts, it stops working. Before Ethonal gas, it might have had a 10 year design life. Past 10 years, any EFI pump is a total risk with modern gas and degradation.
On the later U series 1986-2011 Ranger and 1990-2003 Explorer/Sport trac/FX4, its a pump qaulity issue and rubber inetnal fuel line issue, and a grounding issue. That's why all three need to be cehacked by a mandatory tank drop STAT!
The LCD (Lowest Common Denominator) lowest price, lowest quality fuel pump isn't just the the issue. My X and WC34 Stagea had the stock factory pumps.
GM in Germany dealt with this issue in 1973 when the T car was devised with an electric gas tank pump.
The bigger V cars by Vauxhall, Opel, Holden and Volvo with the 245, 265, 740/760...Saab99/900. W123/126 Benzes. BMW 3.0's and 5's and 3's.
A stillage pot became the mandatory method of ensuring a worn lower pumping head pump would keep pumping gas to a Bosch K, J or D Jetronic engine.
On the Fox Mustang and Capri, the tank is the stillage pot, Ford shaped it to clear and avoid return line aeration.
Some aftermarket race tanks do just the same, like Glenns Performance 22 US GAL (83 liter) drop tank
If you mess with it, you get this.
When the post Fox era fuel pumps get worn out, that's what happens with some (not all) white box goods, because the pumps aren't all the same. Ford and Nissan outsource to what should be from production the same quality pump.
Its clearly not, and thats a supplier issue, and you can bet its a problem if there are five part numbers for a 1998 XLT 4.0 Explorer world wide. The suppliers have done the dirty on FoMoCo.
Its only the European, and Australian and early US CFi/EFi Fords that had the right kind of cotoured stillage pot to ensure gas always hit the low point, then got lifted by a low head, high flow pump.
Inside a German V car fuel tank with a Bosch fuel pump...scavanges to almost zero thou of stage, just like a gasoline engine fuel pump.
Anything else is tempting the fate of all electric pumps that are worn...an inablity to foot the breakover angles and minium head requirments to be safe in modern SUV/Truck or Motorway conditions in a panic situations.
The replacment 5/16 lines are from Gates US, but outsourced to Turkey....luv to see how that would cope with a diet of US ethanol based gas.
This is how heroic service and maintenance is on some gas tanks....an 18 US gallon 68 liter 1978 to 1987 Holden Commodore fuel tank converted to the German Opel Commodore/Senator/Monaza/Omega stillage pot for and EFi conversions.
The old man is a Rugby Union player from way back, real jock. He had knee trouble, a lot of it. Left Moo Zealand and went to South Africa, had knee surgery at 25. When he was 35 and 37 ran two Ultra Marothons.
So do both knees, and good fortune.
I joined up here because I love Mustangs, and anything Stang related.
Got pi%%ed off with the bad advice the AreoMotive dude gave you.
Get emptying .......
I've never heard more Horse Sh!+ over heat creating cavitation in my life. Cavitation happens when entrained air has a flow variance environment to let already entrained air to break into the vapour pressure zone. Flow rate and pressure and a poor shape of the pipe it travels in. Heat is a minor issue. You stop it at the entry when gasoline is pumped. Old diaphram pumps don't cavitate much, but a return line electric pump is a perfect environ to get air in if it has no stillage/swirl pot
Watch this.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ium8jf4Jm04
A stillage pot fixes crap like this....Ford engineered around the situation. In your case, Imho, you need only a freekin stillage pot to break down supercritical speeds which create a standing wave. NZCE Physics 101. Lab Technician. BTDT.
Early stuff, really needs a stillage pot to be 100% safe over the life of a vehicle. Ford used a combination of new pickup and tank shape to do the same job as a full stillage pot. As age degrades parts, it stops working. Before Ethonal gas, it might have had a 10 year design life. Past 10 years, any EFI pump is a total risk with modern gas and degradation.
On the later U series 1986-2011 Ranger and 1990-2003 Explorer/Sport trac/FX4, its a pump qaulity issue and rubber inetnal fuel line issue, and a grounding issue. That's why all three need to be cehacked by a mandatory tank drop STAT!
The LCD (Lowest Common Denominator) lowest price, lowest quality fuel pump isn't just the the issue. My X and WC34 Stagea had the stock factory pumps.
GM in Germany dealt with this issue in 1973 when the T car was devised with an electric gas tank pump.
The bigger V cars by Vauxhall, Opel, Holden and Volvo with the 245, 265, 740/760...Saab99/900. W123/126 Benzes. BMW 3.0's and 5's and 3's.
A stillage pot became the mandatory method of ensuring a worn lower pumping head pump would keep pumping gas to a Bosch K, J or D Jetronic engine.
On the Fox Mustang and Capri, the tank is the stillage pot, Ford shaped it to clear and avoid return line aeration.
Some aftermarket race tanks do just the same, like Glenns Performance 22 US GAL (83 liter) drop tank
If you mess with it, you get this.
When the post Fox era fuel pumps get worn out, that's what happens with some (not all) white box goods, because the pumps aren't all the same. Ford and Nissan outsource to what should be from production the same quality pump.
Its clearly not, and thats a supplier issue, and you can bet its a problem if there are five part numbers for a 1998 XLT 4.0 Explorer world wide. The suppliers have done the dirty on FoMoCo.
Its only the European, and Australian and early US CFi/EFi Fords that had the right kind of cotoured stillage pot to ensure gas always hit the low point, then got lifted by a low head, high flow pump.
Inside a German V car fuel tank with a Bosch fuel pump...scavanges to almost zero thou of stage, just like a gasoline engine fuel pump.
Anything else is tempting the fate of all electric pumps that are worn...an inablity to foot the breakover angles and minium head requirments to be safe in modern SUV/Truck or Motorway conditions in a panic situations.
The replacment 5/16 lines are from Gates US, but outsourced to Turkey....luv to see how that would cope with a diet of US ethanol based gas.
This is how heroic service and maintenance is on some gas tanks....an 18 US gallon 68 liter 1978 to 1987 Holden Commodore fuel tank converted to the German Opel Commodore/Senator/Monaza/Omega stillage pot for and EFi conversions.
Yep, new tank. Unless you'll need to hack that one up too.
I'm trying to remember what you had in your trunk, is there room for a fuel cell?
I'm trying to remember what you had in your trunk, is there room for a fuel cell?
Well Hello Dean....You seem to turn up everywhere I go...or am.
The swirl pot recommendation is NA in my instance...My pump pick up, and my return discharge are on opposite sides of the tank.
It comes out here.
The return, and vent line are on the the other side on top...The only thing that isn't Kosher here is that my return line dumps gas on top of tank w/o the benefit of an extension tube that immerses the returning fuel to stop all of that aeration that your linked video depicts.
So,..In the grand scheme, I gotta lot of bubbly gas on the inlet side,...but waaay on the other side,.....buried under 16 gallons of gas is my outlet,...I can't see how I'm picking up aerated fuel.
I have to believe Aeromotive dude is correct.....more so about my fuel temps being the problem as opposed to aeration...which I'm sure I got some of that going on too.
When the car stranded me, the pump was howlin' like a cat....when I put my hand on the pump, it was warm to the touch...( Just how hot "warm" actually is I couldn't tell ya,) but it was evidently hot enough to cause the engine to choke.
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I'd have to hack and weld the new tank up as well.... Fairmont tanks have a fuel level sender hole in front of the tank instead of on top like a Mustang. I'd have to cut out a round block off plate and weld it up to close that.
I'd also have to cut another hole in the tank to accommodate my existing "tube style" fuel level sender, in addition to the new hole that the new pump requires to mount it with.
This is the new tank....I had to cut that big assed hole in the top to get my hand inside it so I could peel all of that afterbirth out of it when it started to peel off on its own. The green tank in the previous reply was the original rusty tank that I sumped...(It had that red sht in it too)
The trunk has the goofy ass vent (Gila Hole) that lets hot air escape from the radiators that are fed by the Gila Gills. All of that crap takes up the space directly over the spare tire well....I could put a standard drag race style aluminum 16 gal fuel cell in there though, and drop it down through a cut out in the floor, but it'd hang down and be visible from behind all buck tooth lookin' and sht, and I'd have to open the trunk to fill that tank....( Not that big of a deal, but still,....one more "less than" that takes away from street car)
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Ok....I'm gonna risk getting stranded Saturday night. (I'm not too worried, the car runs fine unless it sits in traffic)
I just want to drive the thing one more time before I go down for the count. So,...given the fact that the current tank is such a mess, I'm gonna leave it alone, and fall back to a "plan B" for sometime later in the year.
I'm bailing on the OEM tank. Ebay has a Chinee 15 gal polished aluminum cell w/ a 0-90 ohm built in sender, two vents, and two -8 outlets (with caps) for 109.00.
109 dollars....I couldn't buy the aluminum to make this thing for 109 bucks.
I'll just cut that fuel pump into the top of the thing, and leave those caps in place, and close off the vents too. (the fuel pump has a vent integrated into it.)
As cheap as these things are, I may as well look at a 20 gal. and see if it is feasible to consider that instead...
Regardless of which way I go,..this is a "post knee" project.....I probably will not be able to even consider this until sometime in October.
* I knew I shoulda blended the fuel filler door into the quarter when I was building this thing....
I just want to drive the thing one more time before I go down for the count. So,...given the fact that the current tank is such a mess, I'm gonna leave it alone, and fall back to a "plan B" for sometime later in the year.
I'm bailing on the OEM tank. Ebay has a Chinee 15 gal polished aluminum cell w/ a 0-90 ohm built in sender, two vents, and two -8 outlets (with caps) for 109.00.
109 dollars....I couldn't buy the aluminum to make this thing for 109 bucks.
I'll just cut that fuel pump into the top of the thing, and leave those caps in place, and close off the vents too. (the fuel pump has a vent integrated into it.)
As cheap as these things are, I may as well look at a 20 gal. and see if it is feasible to consider that instead...
Regardless of which way I go,..this is a "post knee" project.....I probably will not be able to even consider this until sometime in October.
* I knew I shoulda blended the fuel filler door into the quarter when I was building this thing....
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No,..I've used those things before. They are set at a 45* angle, and are basically a big "hole" in top of the tank that would allow gas to "slosh out" during a hard left turn. The only thing stopping it from just pouring out onto the quarter would be the cap,..and my Fairmont filler neck has a cap that looks like that isn't likely.
If you are going to go through the trouble of mounting a new tank, mount it higher up so that the fuel pump sits no higher than the outlet fitting from the tank. External pumps like yours do not like to "suck" but they do push real well. Your current set up makes the pump work overtime "sucking" fuel up from the lower mounted outlet fitting. The fuel should be a gravity feed into the fuel pump.
I have a new pump system that immerses the pump, So tank height wont be a factor.
I went the "f*ck this" and switched to a fuel cell and admittedly I regret it a bit. I should have probably gone the route of a new tank with a nice sump and lived with the cramped space. I'm sure you will prioritize trunk space better than I managed to though.I got home tonight and the stuff was there. So was "she".
Made no mention of the stuff sitting on the front porch...(I quickly moved the stuff out of sight)
I opened the trunk, and unscrewed the access plate that I cut into the trunk floor the last time I had to dick with this tank.
Then had my hopes of getting it converted over dashed to the ground.
(See,..I also cut a hole in top of the tank last time too,.....it's directly under the above cover plate.)
But,......I thought that I had screwed the tank cover plate on as well...
Nope.
I riveted it. And I did this while the tank was out. And the access hole in the trunk is significantly covering the access panel on the tank.
In other words,...I cannot get to all of the rivets on the tank panel from the access panel through the trunk floor.
The gas tank is freakin' full to the brim....I'd have to cut even more of the trunk floor to get to all of the rivets,.. then I'd have to drill them out into a full tank of gas...
I won't have a prayer of getting that done in a couple of hours tomorrow,.....and I'm adding to the hack that's already going on in that tank.
I'm pssed.
If I leave that cover plate in place on the tank, and cut the 3.25" hole into a tank full of gas, I risk filling the tank w/ metal shavings, and starting a major fire if there was a spark or some weird sht happening related to drilling such a big hole.
I think I'm dead in the water.
If I leave everything "as is" the car will probably make the cruise in due to the fact that it's all interstate,...Probably.
It could also strand me along the interstate somewhere.
The current tank has been extensively modified. The original fuel level sender hole has been welded shut. There is a sump on one side that I abandoned because it put the pump directly behind the right rear tire. There is an additional sump on the opposite side of the tank that I'm currently using that'll have to be capped. There is a fuel level sender cut into the top of the tank, and an access plate covering the honkin hole that I had to cut so that I could completely remove the red placenta that occurred as a result of trying to coat the tank the last time..
I'm almost at the point of saying ....throw the existing tank away, and starting all this over w/ a new tank.....maybe even a fuel cell.
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