Build Thread 1978 Mercury Cyclone. The pig is in the pen.
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Either a 11.4 second 1/4 mile, or a 1320 feet quarter pile.
George's old "Isle of Cortina verses Caligula" had one of those old wild cam 291 degree hydaulic, 550 gross lift cam specs I gave way back when
When it was just 15-17 pounds, he limited it to 5300 rpm to eliminate high rpm boost creep, and he never really got the top end detonation sorted till much later. His advance was pulled right back to 26 total if IIRC.
He used the stock XF Falcon EFi 161 hp 1985 leaded fuel TFi ignition, the use if it becasue it had only mechanical advance. It was a std Bosch version of Fords TFi, with the EECIV runing the advance curve, which was jumpered by the Wolf 3D do produce 1 degree of boost retard per pound of extra boost.
"https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7266&p=59458#p59458 "
George said:
George said:
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Well the new pump isnt moving any water either....Tells me that something is wrong with the inlet. There is two paths that water can find its way into the engine, just like any pump, this one has two outlets. One feeds one inlet, and the other feeds two inlets in the bottom of the block. Neither of those are filling the engine. Again the head is bone dry. I tried to remove a fitting that I've put in the heads that would relieve a trapped air pocket if there was one, but nothing pushes out when you run the pump. the pump isn't passing the water.
So,...drain out the anti freeze again,..remove the lower hose..make sure that it aint plugged or something ( We all know that that aint gonna be the case) Some how I gotta come up with a test to see if the pump will move water that I removed...I'm thinkin that there aint jack wrong with the old one now...
What the hell has plugged up?
So again this will be the second time that I've ran the engine up to 200+ degrees with no water in the head... I'm doing my level best to warp something it seems.
So,...drain out the anti freeze again,..remove the lower hose..make sure that it aint plugged or something ( We all know that that aint gonna be the case) Some how I gotta come up with a test to see if the pump will move water that I removed...I'm thinkin that there aint jack wrong with the old one now...
What the hell has plugged up?
So again this will be the second time that I've ran the engine up to 200+ degrees with no water in the head... I'm doing my level best to warp something it seems.
Pumps fixed....Turns out,..You have to HAVE water in the pump before it will draw any water into it. Air must've been trapped inside the cooling system and it wouldn't let the system fill. After almost swallowing more antifreeze than what is considered deadly, by blowing into this, and sucking into that, I managed to get it in my mouth more than once trying to force air out of the system.
It leaves a really disgusting after taste.
This time I was able to run the thing up to temp, and it ran for a full 5-10 minutes to get there. Timing is erractic, and is jumping around between cells, and that is what is going on here I think.
The good is that the water pump appears to work. The new oil filter adapter isn't leaking.There isn't a WHIFF of oil vapor coming out of those breathers...Last year at 200 degrees, those things would be smoking like a teenager behind the gymnasium....This time around they're absolutely vapor free....
(Maybe there is something to tying the crankcase to the valve cover to equalize the internal vapors) We will see about that. The Cyclone stripe is almost complete on the passenger side now as well,...only having to wait till its dry enough to peel off the transfer paper, and add a little detail to the rear quarter.
The bad (if you can call it that) is the too fast idle now...What ever changed between last year and now is still alive and well even after a session with Steve. The thing starts,....goes into close loop, and progressively runs faster to about 1950 RPM. Once it hits 140, the Fidle valve closes, and it drops down to like 1500.
You can watch the timing jump as it moves between cells and the timing needle and the AFR gauge get to have a little duel. For the most part, the AFR hovers around Stoic after it gets to 140,..but it will flash to 16:1 then goes back.
The other "bad" is the freakin' enviro-disaster now living under the car..between engine oil leaks, transmission fluid puddles, and now this ant-freeze fiasco,..the EPA would have a heyday under my car..
But,..we're down to nitty gritty engine sht now, and a trunk make-over. Now that that goofy vent thing is out of there I'm gonna build wals and a floor and cover that stuff in some fabric. I'll move the battery behind one of those partitions at that time too.
It leaves a really disgusting after taste.
This time I was able to run the thing up to temp, and it ran for a full 5-10 minutes to get there. Timing is erractic, and is jumping around between cells, and that is what is going on here I think.
The good is that the water pump appears to work. The new oil filter adapter isn't leaking.There isn't a WHIFF of oil vapor coming out of those breathers...Last year at 200 degrees, those things would be smoking like a teenager behind the gymnasium....This time around they're absolutely vapor free....
(Maybe there is something to tying the crankcase to the valve cover to equalize the internal vapors) We will see about that. The Cyclone stripe is almost complete on the passenger side now as well,...only having to wait till its dry enough to peel off the transfer paper, and add a little detail to the rear quarter.
The bad (if you can call it that) is the too fast idle now...What ever changed between last year and now is still alive and well even after a session with Steve. The thing starts,....goes into close loop, and progressively runs faster to about 1950 RPM. Once it hits 140, the Fidle valve closes, and it drops down to like 1500.
You can watch the timing jump as it moves between cells and the timing needle and the AFR gauge get to have a little duel. For the most part, the AFR hovers around Stoic after it gets to 140,..but it will flash to 16:1 then goes back.
The other "bad" is the freakin' enviro-disaster now living under the car..between engine oil leaks, transmission fluid puddles, and now this ant-freeze fiasco,..the EPA would have a heyday under my car..
But,..we're down to nitty gritty engine sht now, and a trunk make-over. Now that that goofy vent thing is out of there I'm gonna build wals and a floor and cover that stuff in some fabric. I'll move the battery behind one of those partitions at that time too.
Who knows... There are so many vacuum hoses coming off of this thing, it'd be amazing if it didn't have a few...I gotta research how to make an el cheapo smoke tester machine, just to rule that out.
Flatfoot
5 Year Member
I found out that you could make the cheapest version of a smoke tester w/ a cigar, and one of those HF hand operated transfer pumps..
You Put a cigar in the inlet tube, hook your intake manifold vacuum lines to the outlet tube,...light the cigar, and then pump the thing while it smokes the cigar and puffs the smoke into the intake.....I cannot see that the thing leaks....smoke started coming out of the throttle bodies.
I do know this: sumtin aint right.
I figured deputy dawg will poke his head in here soon enough... so here Steve..watch this
.
You Put a cigar in the inlet tube, hook your intake manifold vacuum lines to the outlet tube,...light the cigar, and then pump the thing while it smokes the cigar and puffs the smoke into the intake.....I cannot see that the thing leaks....smoke started coming out of the throttle bodies.
I do know this: sumtin aint right.
I figured deputy dawg will poke his head in here soon enough... so here Steve..watch this
.
You know why they make this little emoti dude ? 
They make it for guys like me.
On a whim,...I tell myself................"Lets see what happens when I back the throttle screws all the way off."
The engine wont idle.
So,..I tell myself again....."lets turn those screws like a 1/4 turn'...........
1000 RPM..........
So,...... I could keep going......
The only thing that I changed last year with the induction side of this thing was that I turned those screws...(IIRC) The problem is that one 1/4 of a turn is equivalent to a MONSTROUS amount of additional air being let into the engine. So,....Tomorrow, when the sun come up, and the place warms up enough to open the garage door...I'm gonna tweak the settings, and mess with those throttle screws till every one of them is dead on....with a target RPM of 1000 in park.
Im so stupid........I should open another browser, and log into Stangnet and bitch myself out for wasting a week for lacking the simple deductive logic to ask...
"I wonder if?'
They make it for guys like me.On a whim,...I tell myself................"Lets see what happens when I back the throttle screws all the way off."
The engine wont idle.
So,..I tell myself again....."lets turn those screws like a 1/4 turn'...........
1000 RPM..........
So,......
I could keep going......The only thing that I changed last year with the induction side of this thing was that I turned those screws...(IIRC) The problem is that one 1/4 of a turn is equivalent to a MONSTROUS amount of additional air being let into the engine. So,....Tomorrow, when the sun come up, and the place warms up enough to open the garage door...I'm gonna tweak the settings, and mess with those throttle screws till every one of them is dead on....with a target RPM of 1000 in park.
Im so stupid........I should open another browser, and log into Stangnet and bitch myself out for wasting a week for lacking the simple deductive logic to ask...
"I wonder if?'
Ok...now that the self deprecation is behind me...
It's gonna be a good day tomorrow. I'm off,..it's gonna be like 70... I figure if the rear seal is what's leaking, I'm nosing this bitch down to dump the trans fluid forward, brake cleanin the pss outta the rear seal,..and I'm just gonna goop the right stuff to see ( as a test) if that is the source of the leak. While that is drying, I'll finish the passenger side stripe, and shoot to have the trunk upholstery done. Then,.....( wait for it)..........I'm putting the Monster on his feet,..rolling him out, cleaning him up, and deal with the environmental hazard that's on the floor.
If I get all that done,...I'm gonna be happier Ana..
It's gonna be a good day tomorrow. I'm off,..it's gonna be like 70... I figure if the rear seal is what's leaking, I'm nosing this bitch down to dump the trans fluid forward, brake cleanin the pss outta the rear seal,..and I'm just gonna goop the right stuff to see ( as a test) if that is the source of the leak. While that is drying, I'll finish the passenger side stripe, and shoot to have the trunk upholstery done. Then,.....( wait for it)..........I'm putting the Monster on his feet,..rolling him out, cleaning him up, and deal with the environmental hazard that's on the floor.
If I get all that done,...I'm gonna be happier Ana..
No,...I don't know what goes back there yet...that'll have to wait till I feel it.
- Jul 7, 2005
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Buttttttt. Mikes Mercury Cyclone Spoiler has always been affectionately known as-“The Gila Monster”... Not Crocodile Dundee
Didn't you know that you have to prime the pump before it moves water?
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KL5We5QR17A
We'll just start off with this:
Then we'll add these:
Tonight, after I get back from din din...we'll talk more.
Then we'll add these:
Tonight, after I get back from din din...we'll talk more.
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