Progress Thread 1989 GT Hatchback Restoration

@BlakeusMaximus - thanks man! Even though I'd worked in the dealerships back in the day, I never got too involved with the bodyshop (one of the shops I worked with had a body shop next door- the others always sent out their work).. My main observation of the body men was that they produced a ridiculous amount of sanding dust- that appeared to smell like bananas.. So, I really had no idea that they were specialized.

I'm realizing today that I stupidly was taking it personally, and the dude I talked to from the collision shop was really just trying to help me (he kept saying he didn't want my car to "die in their backlot" which at the time I couldn't understand what he meant).. Now I think he meant exactly what you are saying- that they don't usually do that kinda work, and therefore it would have to take a back seat to what pays their bills..

So, hope my earlier "gravy train" rant didn't offend anyone in the business! you guys honestly taught me something today about body shop specializations.

So, restoration or fab shop sounds like the right place for this indeed- because I honestly don't have the experience, and while I have surprised myself with things I've been able to pick up, this time I think I just want to pay someone to do it right the first time.

@General karthief - I'll take your suggestion, and go check out the shop and their work. What would you guys suggest as to how can I tell if they're legit? Look at their welds, and try to see if it matches my understanding of a "good penetration" weld? I know "stack of dimes" doesn't always mean everything.. I guess I will also look to see what kind of quality and attention to detail there appears to be going on.

Ok- a little update today.

So, I'd previously noticed, that none of my brake lights worked- yet the reverse lights worked, and the tail lights too. Also, the rear turn signals worked, but were white instead of yellow (this GT has LX tail lights)...

So after pouring over the brake light switch, the wires, etc. I finally check the bulbs- I mean, what are the chances that both brake lights, and both 3rd brake light bulbs were burned out? 100% in this case. Changing these all out (and one of the side tail marker lamps that was burned out) got the brake lights fully working. I got the right amber colored bulb for the turn signals- now all working.

I've been talking to the fabrication shop that's going to do my floorpans.. I was at first only going to replace the passenger floorpan which has through rust- but decided, for not much more $$$, I can replace the driver's side floorpan too- and why not if I'm going to all this trouble. AND, this lead to sub-frame connectors being purchased- because, I'm right there, and having welding done, I might as well while I'm here.

Question for you guys: all 4 tires are the wrong size. 3 of them (two rear, and the driver's side tire) are 205/65R15. The front passenger side is 205/60R15. I'm thinking I want to at least get the same series tire- if it is having the work done that I'm doing. My fear is, if it's not sitting evenly on all 4 rims, I'm possibly asking for a mis-aligned chassis when it is welded up? Or, does this matter?

ALSO: Anyone had a horn that won't press in, and therefore won't sound? I fixed this part (I think) by removing the vinyl cover and adding some sponge cushion pads I had there, then re-assembling. Looks like there are supposed to be some wires that connect the inner and outer contacts to the upper-right and lower contact, respectively? Grounding these out makes the horn slightly sound- then it stops, and I just hear the horn relay clicking... Maybe I need to replace the relay too. Man! This car had a LOT of issues!

Jason

Small update here, and some random thoughts...

The car has been at the fab shop for one week- they estimated 2-2.5 weeks, so, so far so good. Now I'm contemplating next moves once I get the car back.

There seems to be a ridiculous number of options for sound deadening material for the floor- some crazy expensive. I wonder what is close to what stock had? And, what (in you guys' experience) is the best bang-for-the-buck insulation, good performance, low price. Once I have this figured out, I'll be putting in a new carpet. God only knows what went down in that car in it's 29 year history, but looks to be various stains and things I do NOT want to know about! The AAC carpet for sale at LMR and CJPony look good, so, I'm excited about that part.

My passenger-side front seat looks pretty good. Driver's side however, has a tear in the vinyl part, and the right side of it leans back.. Is this common for the seats? Any fixing this? Call me crazy, 'cause I know it would be way cheaper probably to just by eBay "racing seats", but I want to fix the stock one- and want the fabric to be correct. The kits I've seen available to recover the seats sold at the usual suspects are nice, but don't appear authentic. Anyone had an upholstery shop re-do stock seats and it was 100%?

Finally, alternator question: I've got the stock (wimpy?) alternator. It works, and I hate to spend more $$$ if I don't have to, but I know it's not putting out big amps. However, this car has factory A/C delete, and manual windows and locks.. Anyone worked out a power budget on one of these cars? For example, clearly the alternator in the car now is enough for just driving as the car is- lights on or off, etc. BUT, if I add my phone charger (I'm guessing this is negligible amount of current draw), plus a decent, modern (no bigtime power amps) radio (with bluetooth, GPS, etc.), am I cutting things close?

And about the radio- I'd love to have a touchscreen or GPS/nav radio- this would be my only car with one, as I could add it for MUCH cheaper than the factory wanted for stock nav radios with my other cars (3k+ option! No thanks!) It's certainly not period though.. And, it would be kinda cool to find the stock radio to put in (even though according to my VIN, this car was factory radio delete too!). Anyone familiar with the stock radio unit- any chance there is an AUX-in channel on the back, so that I could integrate a phone or another music source?

I'm pretty sure this is the year/model correct factory radio:

...and not this one:


...however, I remember radios looking like the second one when I worked at a dealership in 1993-ish, and I also remember those radios having an option of a CD-disc changer.. So, I wonder if anyone here is familiar with either of these units (looks like they both mount the same way too- perhaps same harness on the back end?) enough to know if either has a CD or AUX input on the back, and support in the head unit so you can select a source other than AM/FM/cassette...

Jason

Yup- somehow I missed an update- I used a multimeter, aligator clips, and wire to test the output of the horn relay at the horn from the horn wire connectors. Pressing the horn button (which works MUCH better now that I replaced the foam in the horn button) resulted in 12v. So, BOTH horns were dead. Advanced Autoparts had a low and high pitched horn, so I bought them, and replaced the horns themselves. Now I get a loud bi-tone horn when I press the switch. My wife is convinced I've lost my nuggets, happy that I can make my horn sound, but, it was work to get there!

Also, I replaced all 4 tires before sending the car to the fab shop- just so I was evenly sitting on all four wheels. Since I want to keep the 15" turbine rims, my choices for tires are a bit limited- I chose cheap this time: Fuzion 225/60R15 H-rated. While getting the tires put on, we noticed the brake lines for the rear drums were kaput, so these were replaced as well, and the brakes bled. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! I have pedal now!!!