1993 cobra MAF housing and stock 5.0 electronics ??
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I purchased a Pro-M for my '93 and swapped my old one onto my wife's 87 t-top GT and switched the top sensor portion between the two about 18 months ago and have had no issues/concerns with it. I doubt that it makes a difference in power, but what the hey, it was mine and both cars were sitting there....why not?
93tealstang
Founding Member
Don't do it regardless if somebody tells you that their car is running fine with a 93 Cobra MAF. The transfer functions are different which basically means that the meter will send false signals to the computer making the car run out of tune. To run a Cobra meter CORRECTLY, a chip with the correct transfer functions needs to be burned. If you want a larger meter for better air flow, go with a Pro-M 77 or 80. Or go with a SN95 70mm unit. It uses the exact same transfer functions and is much larger than the stock fox unit. I run one and it works great. With MAF's, accuracy is the main thing to worry about. What I've listed will assure you the most accuracy.
Pro-M offers OEM MAF housings calibrated to whatever injector size you want. Not only that, they can take your stock 70mm Cobra MAF and recalibrate it for you.
If you change injector size and have your MAF calibrated for the injectors, you still have to recalibrate the computer. The car will run OK, but under load, the fuel and timing curves will be off, so power and drivability are affected.
If you change injector size and have your MAF calibrated for the injectors, you still have to recalibrate the computer. The car will run OK, but under load, the fuel and timing curves will be off, so power and drivability are affected.
Call up Pro-M and talk to a professional. It's also my understanding that changing the bore of your MAF and leaving your electronics will affect the voltages. Someone check me on this, but from what I understand, the ratio of air moving through the housing bore to air moving across the sensor is key to accurate voltage information sent back to the ECU.
http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/InductionBlues.html Try this. It should explain things.
http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/InductionBlues.html Try this. It should explain things.
93tealstang
Founding Member
ss93cobra said:IF YOU USE YOUR TOP ELECTRONIC SENSOR AND THE COBRA MAF HOUSING YOU'LL BE FINE
BEEN THERE, DONE THAT.
You sir are clueless. Just because your car "seems" to be running ok doesn't mean it actually is. Take a look at your plugs sometime, I'm sure you'll be able to tell from them that your car is probably leaning out. So a
right back at ya.The electronics on MAF's take air samples and send signals to the computer which fluctuates the A/F ratio. The electronics are calibrated to the meter's transfer function which is basically the way that the air enters the meters' sampling inlet. By take stock electronics and placing them into a 93 Cobra MAF housing, you WILL be sending false signals to your computer becuase of the differences in transfer functions. You may think it's fine now, but in time problems will develop.
larrendeuce
Member
I have Track times to prove this doesn't work. I'd think since a cobra MAF is calibrated to 19# injectors that should be fine to use with its own electronics.
See this thread.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=506846
See this thread.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=506846
The '93 Cobra came stock with 24# injectors, a 70mm MAF (calibrated for 24# injectors), and a different computer calibration.
You can order this conversion right out of the FMS catalog.
X3Z Computer, MAF, & 24lb/Hr Injectors
Part #M-9000-C52
ss93cobra...You are correct, it will run just "fine". However, because of the load error from the ECU it will not run at full power. Other symptoms may include a lean condition at low RPM, excessively advanced timing at part throttle, excessively rich condition at WOT, and a "grumpy" cold start, and so on. Take a minute to read the MustangWorks tech article I posted above. It might explain things a bit more.
You can order this conversion right out of the FMS catalog.
X3Z Computer, MAF, & 24lb/Hr Injectors
Part #M-9000-C52
ss93cobra...You are correct, it will run just "fine". However, because of the load error from the ECU it will not run at full power. Other symptoms may include a lean condition at low RPM, excessively advanced timing at part throttle, excessively rich condition at WOT, and a "grumpy" cold start, and so on. Take a minute to read the MustangWorks tech article I posted above. It might explain things a bit more.
larrendeuce
Member
The 93 cobra maf is calibrated for 19# injectors, the computer makes the adjustment to work with 24# injectors.
After further review. I stand corrected. 19#MAF cal. Unique Cobra computer calibration. I was not aware of that... 
I wonder why Ford did that? They had to make a special computer calibration just so they can deal with a mismatched injector-MAF combo...seems a little silly. Why didn't they make things a complete matching set?
In that case, as long as you run 19# injectors and your ECU is cal'd for 19# injectors, there shouldn't be any issues running the larger Cobra MAF. Everything matches up.
I wonder why Ford did that? They had to make a special computer calibration just so they can deal with a mismatched injector-MAF combo...seems a little silly. Why didn't they make things a complete matching set?In that case, as long as you run 19# injectors and your ECU is cal'd for 19# injectors, there shouldn't be any issues running the larger Cobra MAF. Everything matches up.
93tealstang said:You sir are clueless. Just because your car "seems" to be running ok doesn't mean it actually is. Take a look at your plugs sometime, I'm sure you'll be able to tell from them that your car is probably leaning out. So a
The electronics on MAF's take air samples and send signals to the computer which fluctuates the A/F ratio. The electronics are calibrated to the meter's transfer function which is basically the way that the air enters the meters' sampling inlet. By take stock electronics and placing them into a 93 Cobra MAF housing, you WILL be sending false signals to your computer becuase of the differences in transfer functions. You may think it's fine now, but in time problems will develop.
I was going to let this go, but I've decided not to. I've owned over 1/2 dozen of these cars, worked on dozens more, and aside from all of this I've worked at the local Ford dealer for over 10 years. Don't believe everything you read and assume its fact. I've done this on my wife's GT and my brother-in-law's s-trim 306 GT with NO issues what so ever. Seeing is believing and talk is cheap.
Now I feel better.
93tealstang
Founding Member
Maybe this thread will set the facts straight.
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=478914
I was looking into getting a 93 Cobra MAF but got CORRECT imformation and decided not to. Read it and learn something......
http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=478914
I was looking into getting a 93 Cobra MAF but got CORRECT imformation and decided not to. Read it and learn something......
Nicely done information actually. I hate to continue a seemingly senseless debate of ideas/thoughts/positions here as well but to consider a real situation here vs. graphs, etc. I've done it twice with no issues and the most recent being on my wife's (trust me, if it wasn't right, I'd hear about it).
Sometimes there has to be an area where science and reality don't agree and that what was should or shouldn't be is the opposite anyway. Changing the aluminum housing over and switching back to the stock sensor worked. I don't know scientifically why it did, or why it shouldn't, but it worked none the less without an issue. I agree it looks as if it shouldn't and perhaps I was lucky, but I don't appreciate being called "clueless" by somebody that only quotes others and has no first hand experience. Enough is enough though, I do enjoy the people here and don't wish to make enemies with anyone, so, I'm glad it worked for me and if you ever decide to try it, give me a shout, maybe I can come help you....
Sometimes there has to be an area where science and reality don't agree and that what was should or shouldn't be is the opposite anyway. Changing the aluminum housing over and switching back to the stock sensor worked. I don't know scientifically why it did, or why it shouldn't, but it worked none the less without an issue. I agree it looks as if it shouldn't and perhaps I was lucky, but I don't appreciate being called "clueless" by somebody that only quotes others and has no first hand experience. Enough is enough though, I do enjoy the people here and don't wish to make enemies with anyone, so, I'm glad it worked for me and if you ever decide to try it, give me a shout, maybe I can come help you....
