Electrical 1995 Mustang GT slight hiccups/hesitation at around 2k rpm looking for a fix for the dreaded code 212

shadow13

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May 29, 2020
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Been working on this issue for months maybe even years now, it’s the same thing every test drive, it runs perfectly except for size varying hiccups and/or hesitations up at around 2k rpm, the code we’ve been receiving all this time has been code 212: loss of IDM (ignition diagnostic monitor) signal short to ground in SPOUT circuit, we’ve been down in the ECU and the ICM checking pin to pin to ground to component to everything (not in that order of course) looking for issues with continuity but we haven’t found anything we’ve replaced our distributor and ICM both at least twice

On a second thought we are aware the difference between an ICM or TFI that needs a 22k ohm resistor And a more advanced one that does not, we have currently installed one that does not require a 22k ohm resistor we are wondering if perhaps we may have replaced one that did need the resistor and the new one burned it out, is that a possibility? Has the 95 ever had the 22k ohm resistor between the ECM and the ICM and ignition coil?

any help is greatly appreciated
 
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Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
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Aug 26, 2004
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Had to go back and search for code 212, as the number jiggled one of the two brain cells I have left. You can get that code if the PIP sensor in the distributor is failing. I believe pulling the SPOUT interrupts the signal from the PIP sensor, so the computer can't advance the timing. If you recently replaced the distributor with a remanufactured one, they rarely replace the PIP - it's "tested" and reported as "good" but rarely is. You can replace the PIP yourself, but you have to disassemble the distributor to do so.
 
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shadow13

New Member
May 29, 2020
3
0
1
49
California
Had to go back and search for code 212, as the number jiggled one of the two brain cells I have left. You can get that code if the PIP sensor in the distributor is failing. I believe pulling the SPOUT interrupts the signal from the PIP sensor, so the computer can't advance the timing. If you recently replaced the distributor with a remanufactured one, they rarely replace the PIP - it's "tested" and reported as "good" but rarely is. You can replace the PIP yourself, but you have to disassemble the distributor to do so.
We’ve lightly considered the PIP but figured it would be fine because our replaced distributor is brand new