Progress Thread 2.3L - crank no start issue. Has spark, fuel, good compression.

Alright, been a while! Still not starting.

I picked up a smoke machine, found and fixed a couple minor leaks from the brake booster check valve and the iac. Had a ridiculous amount of smoke come out of the dipstick, replaced the piston rings, connector bearings, and related gaskets/head bolts. Now smoke will eventually come out of the dipstick if I leave the machine running but just a small amount.

Timing is spot on, all injectors are getting signals, all plugs are firing.

Did a dry compression test (5 cranks/avg of 3 readings):
1- 174psi
2- 173psi
3- 173psi
4- 164psi
Not sure if it matters but every cylinder on the first crank jumps to about 120psi then has diminishing jumps till the final reading.

Codes pulled:
334 - Egr closed voltage higher than expected (still installed but blocked off)
519 - Power steering circuit open (missing connector, debating on switching to manual rack)
565 - Canister purge circuit fail (came without)
558 - Egr regulator fail (came without)


I'm not sure how to upload videos, if someone can walk me through it I can put up clips of the above or anything needed to help diagnose.

Anyone have any ideas? It's just cranking, seems like it's going to start occasionally but never does. Starter fluid doesn't do anything, I don't have a numerical reading for the fuel pressure but when I depress the valve it sprays out with force. Throttle screw has been set to factory.

On a possibly separate note, is it normal for the reverse light to come on if the shifter gets pushed to far into park? Or is that a sign of a faulty s/n switch?

Thank you guys for all the help you've provided, hopefully it'll be running soon!

Yeah this car is blowing my mind, it doesn't make sense.

I will have to look into my reverse light coming on. It cranks when in park but occasionally it will either get bumped by me or get vibrated forward slightly and my reverse lights kick on. They turn off if you pull back slightly on the shifter.

I'm 99.9% sure the timing is not 180° (no distributor, not sure how it could be set 180°) but I will check it again tonight after work.

I will have to check my exhaust. I don't think it's clogged, it doesn't have a cat and I've smoked tested it successfully from the exhaust pipe, but I haven't checked that yet.

I do not have access to an oscilloscope nor am I willing to purchase one just to test my ckps one time, but from testing it using a dmm and seeng if I get an on/off 10-12V signal, I do get a on/off signal but it's in the high 9V (not sure if that matters or if it's like the tps and just needs to be close)

Is there a way to test the computer and icm or it just process of elimination? I've replaced everything in the ignition system (computer included) except for the Icm.

Lol I thought I knew what I was doing but this car is making me question myself ‍.

Thanks for your advice! I will post what I find once I get home!