Progress Thread 2.3L - crank no start issue. Has spark, fuel, good compression.

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Ok here's the results from tonight.

Disabled the fuel injectors, cranked the engine till I was sure any excess gas had been cleared. Sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body reconnected everything and cranked it. No start but did get a very loud bang. Injectors were still disabled.

Removed intake and fuel rail to check if any of the injectors were leaking when I hit a snag. I couldn't get the fuel pressure above 20psi (fp regulator issue?). I included pics of the setup and the reading on the gauge. It's still set up so I can take additional pics if the one I included is :poo:lol.

Tested the spray of all the injectors @ 20psi for about 2 seconds, none of them registered a drop in pressure on the gauge even without re-pressurizing the line in between sprays (is that weird, I think it is...). Not sure what the spray pattern is supposed to look like but they looked uniform from what I could see. No leaks from any of the injectors after closing @ 20psi.

Going to pick up a vacuum hand pump to try putting vacuum on the regulator to see if that has an effect on the pressure and some spray fuel injector cleaner to see if I can clean up the fuel injector spray patterns. I will let you guys know what happens! If anyone has any other thoughts on what could be causing the issue I'm all ears!
 

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Can you check and see what the pressure is the pump is putting out i.e. before the fuel rail? Just want to make sure the pump is putting up more than 40 psig of pressure as the stock FPR should be cutting it to 39ish psig with no vacuum attached. The pump will need to put up more than that so the EEC can control the fueling correctly.
 
Alright, hooked up the pressure tester to before the rail.

pressure jumps to 50psi when priming.
Dropped to 42psi then kept falling to about 32psi.
Re-pressurized the line had the same results but pressure dropped to 20psi before stopping.
No visible leaks from lines or injectors
No fuel coming out of fp regulator vacuum port

About to head to AutoZone to grab a replacement fp reg. Will post the results when I have them!
 
Yeah so I put it back together with the new regulator and it's still having the same pressure issues. Lol going to get a replacement pump sent from Amazon, not sure what else could be the issue. I think my p/n switch is possibly bad as well, the reverse light flashes now when I crank it in park. Getting a replacement for that as well.
 
Finally heard back from the company, the new fuel pump should be here by Saturday. Going to switch the last off the butt connectors to solder since I have time to kill. Will let you guys know what happens after I get the new pump installed
 
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Finally got around to getting the new fuel pump in. Still not starting.

Fuel readings after the pump are as follows:
Priming: about 38psi
Key on engine off: 24psi
Crank: about 35psi
Post crank: 24psi
5 min post crank: 21psi

Fuel reading from the rail are as follows:
Priming: 10psi
Key on engine off: 10psi
Crank: 10psi
Post crank: 10psi
5 min post crank: 10psi

There's a silver diaphragm looking part on the inbound fuel line, could that be interfering with fuel pressure? Gotta look up what it is lol no idea what it is. I attached pics of the part in question. Fuel rail and lines are clear.

Still having issues with my reverse light coming on in park, turns off in any other position. I also get code 522 if I try and start the car in neutral.
 

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Looked up the part it seems to be a dampener for excess noise while the fuel pump is running? Does that sound correct?
I'm not sure that would cause an issue but I'm going to go and see if I can clean it out or try bypassing it and see if the pressure readings match without it.
 
Alright so some progress, kind of. Getting matching readings from post pump and at the Schrader valve now, turns out the Schrader valve wasn't functioning properly. Discovered this when I removed it and the readings matched. Replaced it with one from one of the accessory lines that came with the fuel pressure gauge.

Also found why my reverse lights have been coming on. When the connector for the p/n switch is moved the reverse light will turn on/off. Moving individual wires does not cause the light to come on, only when the actual connector is moved. Going to get a replacement connector and see if that fixes the issue, if not I will probably end up getting a new p/n switch.

Car still not starting, not sure what to do now...
 
Fixed the reverse light issue, faulty p/n switch. Getting the starter tested in the morning then going to go through the crank no start checklist again. Will post what I find!
 
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Got the starter and battery tested, battery was good starter failed. Got a replacement starter along with an O2 sensor. After installing them it still doesn't start but it sounds better. Getting wispy white/gray smoke from the exhaust. Started the checklist, getting spark at the plugs, injectors are all getting pulses. Will continue tonight after I get home.
 
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