Forgot to put I have the stock inertia switch installed as well.
Honestly I do plan on swapping the tank for a bigger one down the road but right now I just need it running. I'm alright with getting 20k miles out of a external one just to give me a working vehicle and some time to save up for a new tank/internal pump and get it installed. Right now I'm having to use public transportation/my bicycle ($4 and about 8 hours round trip) or an Uber/Lyft ($70+/ about 3 hours round trip, including wait time) to get to and from work. It's slowly killing me and my wallet lol.
That being said, I understand what you guys are saying about the internal pumps and I agree and will be switching to that down the road, but for now if any of you knows a decent external that will just get me going for the time being I would greatly appreciate it!
Thanks once again for all your guys help, I can't express my appreciation and gratitude enough!
Honestly I do plan on swapping the tank for a bigger one down the road but right now I just need it running. I'm alright with getting 20k miles out of a external one just to give me a working vehicle and some time to save up for a new tank/internal pump and get it installed. Right now I'm having to use public transportation/my bicycle ($4 and about 8 hours round trip) or an Uber/Lyft ($70+/ about 3 hours round trip, including wait time) to get to and from work. It's slowly killing me and my wallet lol.
That being said, I understand what you guys are saying about the internal pumps and I agree and will be switching to that down the road, but for now if any of you knows a decent external that will just get me going for the time being I would greatly appreciate it!
Thanks once again for all your guys help, I can't express my appreciation and gratitude enough!
To run an external you really need to have a fitting on the bottom of the tank and preferably on one end. The tank will need to tilt so that the fitting on the bottom is at the lowest point. This is to help with slosh as there will not be a sump and I am assuming that there is not any baffling in the tank. You will need a fuel filter between the tank and the pump of which both will need to be mounted lower than the tank.
Amazon product ASIN B0C88HR66Z
Amazon product ASIN B000C9WJ8U
Amazon product ASIN B0C88HR66Z
Amazon product ASIN B000C9WJ8U
So, what is this Sasquatch we are working on? A dune buggy of some sort?
I sure hope this is a case of:
Random Person that none of us have ever met: "I bet that unloved/unwanted 2.3L would work great in a dune buggy!"
and not:
Random Person that none of us have ever met: "Hmmm... What awesome engine could I put into this dune buggy? Aha! A Ford 2.3!"
I sure hope this is a case of:
Random Person that none of us have ever met: "I bet that unloved/unwanted 2.3L would work great in a dune buggy!"
and not:
Random Person that none of us have ever met: "Hmmm... What awesome engine could I put into this dune buggy? Aha! A Ford 2.3!"
I do have a fitting on the bottom of the tank but it's in the middle, it drains well despite not being tipped. No sump or baffling from what I can see. I have the stock mustang filter about 1ft after the tank and it as well as the pump are lower than the tank.
It started off as a buggy project but ended up becoming a daily driver buggy project due to necessity.
I bought it with the 2.3 already installed (it had the absolute bare minimum to have it run installed), figured the power to weight ratio would be better and it would be fairly fuel efficient.
I'm waiting for it to start so I can have my mad scientist moment and scare the crap out of my neighbors with evil laughter and shouting "It's ALIVE!"
Alright, got that pump you recommended AeroCoupe (thanks!). It should be here Monday, going to pick up the spark plugs either tomorrow if I can get off early or Sunday. Starting to get that kid right before Christmas feeling... Hope this is all it needs! I will let you guys know what happens Monday!
I remember some very cold nights spent under my Super Bee in my parents car port Circa 72/73 so it would get me to High School the next day...
Funny thing is my Mom could have taken me or even rode the bus, that went right by my front door..... NAAAAH............ LOL
Nothing like driving yourself wherever you want in a vehicle you built/rebuilt yourself
Yeah... Getting dropped off by Mom ment being at school before the sun was up and since my first class didn't start till well after the sun was up, I always chose to sleep in and just walk my ass to school. My high school/city I lived in at the time didn't have busses lol
Installed the new pump and plugs, still doesn't want to start. Closed my garage with the remote in it again when I left to use the bathroom. Will have to wait for maintenance to retrieve my remote before I can get pressure reading and continue diagnostics.
While we are waiting...
These and all connectors like them are concerning to me:
These kinds of connectors are fine hooking a set of temp tail-lights on a towed car or trailer but that's about it.
I would suggest solder and shrink-tube for each of these connections.
I have used this before and it is just damned amazing for something as involved as what you got going on:
It's called "Spliseal" if you're interested.
These and all connectors like them are concerning to me:
These kinds of connectors are fine hooking a set of temp tail-lights on a towed car or trailer but that's about it.
I would suggest solder and shrink-tube for each of these connections.
I have used this before and it is just damned amazing for something as involved as what you got going on:
It's called "Spliseal" if you're interested.
That's awesome I'll have to look into it!
Lol so that blue one on the tps was just used as a hands free test port for my dmm, it's one continuous wire and it was removed.
As for the rest of them, when I pulled that wiring harness and re-did it I soldered/heat-shrink'd the system critical connections but the non critical ones are still connected with crimp weatherproof connectors
Lol so that blue one on the tps was just used as a hands free test port for my dmm, it's one continuous wire and it was removed.
As for the rest of them, when I pulled that wiring harness and re-did it I soldered/heat-shrink'd the system critical connections but the non critical ones are still connected with crimp weatherproof connectors
Almost 2 weeks later and still no remote. The emergency cable installed on the door broke when they tried to pull it, they were supposed to open/fix it 2 days ago but the guy that showed up said his back hurt too much to do the job. It was supposed to be fixed today but of course it's not and no one knows anything.
Hopefully Monday.
Hopefully Monday.
Finally got in! Got an extra remote too, to avoid this happening again lol
So I hooked up the pressure tester and here are the results:
Key on engine off: 45psi while priming, 38psi when off
Cranking: jumps around between 40-45psi occasionally going up to 50psi. Pump runs for about 3 seconds after key release @ 45psi then rests at 38psi
Sitting: pressure drops to 35 psi after 2 mins, 30psi after 4.5 mins, 25psi after 6.5 mins, 22psi after 10 mins, and 18psi after 15 mins.
I still have the new stock mustang fuel filter installed
No visible leaks
So I hooked up the pressure tester and here are the results:
Key on engine off: 45psi while priming, 38psi when off
Cranking: jumps around between 40-45psi occasionally going up to 50psi. Pump runs for about 3 seconds after key release @ 45psi then rests at 38psi
Sitting: pressure drops to 35 psi after 2 mins, 30psi after 4.5 mins, 25psi after 6.5 mins, 22psi after 10 mins, and 18psi after 15 mins.
I still have the new stock mustang fuel filter installed
No visible leaks
Drained the tank and put a fresh 5 gallons in, still didn't start but I had quite a bit of black smoke coming out of the tailpipe and there were a few points it sounded like it was just a slight push from starting. Going to pull the plugs tomorrow, clean them and check the fuel pressure regulator.
Last edited: