2000 GT front brakes

So I have a 2000 GT with front brake issues. There have been a couple of times the front brakes build pressure to actually slow down the car without foot on brake. I started with the basics because it needed it anyways and worked my way up to more complicated. Now I only have a few options left and I would just like to know what the real problem is.
New parts: both front calipers, front pads, master cylinder, hydroboost unit, front flex lines on both sides, 100% new fluid-with new MC bench bled it then flushed each wheel till it ran clear then again just to be double sure because brake fluids cheap lol

Yes the pads are installed the correct way because I know they are directional(only found out after I burnt a pair of calipers lol). I have unplugged the abs module itself and this stopped the brake lock but not complete solution. the front brakes are still maintaining very slight but constant contact with rotors as pads will stop wheel from spinning if I jack car up and spin them. Not sure if I should be looking at the ABS module, HCU, proportioning valve? If its the ABS module is sending it out for repair advisable or just flat replacing it
 
  • Sponsors (?)


the front brakes are still maintaining very slight but constant contact with rotors as pads will stop wheel from spinning if I jack car up and spin them.
An automotive brake system maintains a bit of drag noticeable when on jacks. So, unless you can't turn the wheels, or they have a lot of drag requiring a Herculean effect to turn, you sound to me to be in the ballpark--especially with the parts list and fluid bleeding you've described. By example, if the expectation when spinning a wheel while on jacks is for it to spin like a bicycle wheel, that won't happen.
 
I have unplugged the abs module itself and this stopped the brake lock but not complete solution. the front brakes are still maintaining very slight but constant contact with rotors as pads will stop wheel from spinning if I jack car up and spin them. Not sure if I should be looking at the ABS module, HCU, proportioning valve? If its the ABS module is sending it out for repair advisable or just flat replacing it
Just wondering. Did you perform the ABS bleed procedure with an ODB2 scan tool? If this were my car this is what I would do before replacing the ABS unit.

Plus if this were my car I would also use an ODB2 scanner to compare the wheel speed sensors from all wheels. In addition looking at the ABS operating mode.

I am also aware from personal experience that IF air gets into an ABS module that they can be a total PIA to bleed. I would pay a professional to use a pressure bleeder before replacing an $$ ABS module.

Here's some information on an affordable Windows based ODB2 unit that is capable of talking to an ABS unit.

ForScan ODB2 scanner w ELM327 USB

It's also possible that you have more than one problem. For example IF there is a a blockage in ANY of the brake lines this will cause a condition where the brakes apply but won't RELEASE. Sooooooooooo what are the physical condition of all the brake lines? Do this first before doing any more bleeding.
 
Last edited:
Sorry I went MIA for a little bit work got busy again. Im a store manager and its the holiday season so you can imagine lol. Im going to try with the forscan soon but it might be the start of next week as I have a vacation coming. if this doesnt work im considering throwing my hands up and handing over to a mechanic I know.
 
Alright happy to report I love forscan. I bought the extended license. With that I was able to preform a service bleed on the abs pump from my driveway also found a fuse that was partially burnt so maybe the two will have solved any issues I have too soon to tell yet
 
Alright happy to report I love forscan. I bought the extended license. With that I was able to preform a service bleed on the abs pump from my driveway
I love to hear this. I think it's a good to hear whenever someone converts to the "dark side" and gives ODB2 a try.

However I didn't know that an extended license is needed for ABS bleeding. I thought an extended license made the PATS functions work.

But wasn't it satisfying to find out something without having to replace a part only to find out the part wasn't broke in the first place? Welcome to the big leagues! Your trouble shooting will never be the same again!
 
I love to hear this. I think it's a good to hear whenever someone converts to the "dark side" and gives ODB2 a try.

However I didn't know that an extended license is needed for ABS bleeding. I thought an extended license made the PATS functions work.

But wasn't it satisfying to find out something without having to replace a part only to find out the part wasn't broke in the first place? Welcome to the big leagues! Your trouble shooting will never be the same again!

Your 100% right about that on top of the abs I always thought I had a miss but everyone thought I was crazy because she runs great. Well I have never felt so vindicated. Although I'm not sure why it says cylinder 9 and 10...
 

Attachments

  • 20191107_103422.jpg
    20191107_103422.jpg
    284.8 KB · Views: 197
Although I'm not sure why it says cylinder 9 and 10...
The reason it shows cylinder 9 and 10 is because Ford uses the same operating system across many of it's lines. The PCM and the ODB2 scan tool are not smart enough to know that the motor only has 8 cylinders.

Please IGNORE any reports about cylinders above the number that your motor actually has. It's OK.

But the ODB2 mode 6 data is a GREAT way to track low level misfires before they start flashing a check engine light.
 
The reason it shows cylinder 9 and 10 is because Ford uses the same operating system across many of it's lines. The PCM and the ODB2 scan tool are not smart enough to know that the motor only has 8 cylinders.

Please IGNORE any reports about cylinders above the number that your motor actually has. It's OK.

But the ODB2 mode 6 data is a GREAT way to track low level misfires before they start flashing a check engine light.


Alright so I'm an idiot for trying to hurry through the process. I went to do the service bleed on my brakes. Apparently I either didn't close or didn't fully close one of the bleeder screws. Left front to be exact. So I get halfway to work and loose brake pedal pressure. So I used engine braking and ebrake to make it to work. Once I got off I was planning to tow it home. I walk out and see a puddle of fluid under the tire that turned out to be brake fluid. So at home I refilled the mc, bleed the system twice and had good pedal feel. Until I turned the car on and i pushed it to floor with zero resistance but it does return up every time. So grab laptop thinking to abs bleed again but as soon as I command abs pump on it starts making noise.

I have a video but it wont let me upload... I think the pump is burnt out though kinda sounds like grinding and squealing
 
If you let the master cylinder run dry it is often necessary to re-bleed the master cylinder itself. In many cases it's difficult/impossible to bleed a master cylinder on the car. Why? Because many have to be bleed while being held level but are installed on the car at an angle. My advice is to attempt to bleed the master cylinder on the car but not to be surprised if it does not work.

If the master cylinder has separate bleeder screws give them a try. These might save you from having to bench bleed.

Here's another case where the professional pressure bleeding is superior to the shade tree DIY method.
 
If you let the master cylinder run dry it is often necessary to re-bleed the master cylinder itself. In many cases it's difficult/impossible to bleed a master cylinder on the car. Why? Because many have to be bleed while being held level but are installed on the car at an angle. My advice is to attempt to bleed the master cylinder on the car but not to be surprised if it does not work.

If the master cylinder has separate bleeder screws give them a try. These might save you from having to bench bleed.

Here's another case where the professional pressure bleeding is superior to the shade tree DIY method.

Bleeding the MC does make sense and it's not super hard because mine is easy access. However I dont want to spend the time to do it if I'm not going to have brakes anyways due to a bad abs pump. I know the abs module itself is good because I can control the function. The only place I can find sells the abs pump and hcu as one unit at a pretty penny. Which may park the car a minute