2002 V6 3.8L Help Me

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

Hello, I recently bought a 2002 V6 3.8L, when I first bought the car there were major Electrical issues. my instrument cluster mileage would not show and sometimes it does. My daylight headlights are not working and high beam only the passenger side is operating. My internal room lamp driver side does not work as well. Engine and Transmission running like a charm.
Until recently the car took me to point A and B and it started having the theft light flashing issue. I have no spare key I was blessed with one key upon purchase. If I left my key in the ignition on ON for 10 minutes it would usually fix my problem sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t. I checked all my fuses and everything had power, my battery was good and I have new terminals as well. My CHTS was not reading the sensor so I also had to create a second harness specifically for a bypass switch on my radiator fan. Ccrm is working. My only Fault Code is PCM high circuit. I’m not a master electrician and I don’t have many years of experience doing this. I do have a very good grasp on general understanding. Could a bypass made of house wire mess with the transceiver reading?

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

Hello, I recently bought a 2002 V6 3.8L, when I first bought the car there were major Electrical issues. my instrument cluster mileage would not show and sometimes it does. My daylight headlights are not working and high beam only the passenger side is operating. My internal room lamp driver side does not work as well. Engine and Transmission running like a charm.
Until recently the car took me to point A and B and it started having the theft light flashing issue. I have no spare key I was blessed with one key upon purchase. If I left my key in the ignition on ON for 10 minutes it would usually fix my problem sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t. I checked all my fuses and everything had power, my battery was good and I have new terminals as well. My CHTS was not reading the sensor so I also had to create a second harness specifically for a bypass switch on my radiator fan. Ccrm is working. My only Fault Code is PCM high circuit. I’m not a master electrician and I don’t have many years of experience doing this. I do have a very good grasp on general understanding. Could a bypass made of house wire mess with the transceiver reading?

I checked for corrosion in the junction box cleaned it out with some electrical cleaner from the parts store and slapped some dielectric grease on the worst looking spots cleaned out most of my can bus connections and did the same. I’m as old as my car so I don’t have allot of experience with these models. I’m ordering a new scanner (Autel) to help me work piece by piece. I initially thought it was the transceiver and got a used on from the junkyard but it didn’t work. So I plugged in the old one again and still the same problem. Theft light is flashing. From my basic knowledge it’s telling me T16 (six flashes before the pause)

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

I checked for corrosion in the junction box cleaned it out with some electrical cleaner from the parts store and slapped some dielectric grease on the worst looking spots cleaned out most of my can bus connections and did the same. I’m as old as my car so I don’t have allot of experience with these models. I’m ordering a new scanner (Autel) to help me work piece by piece. I initially thought it was the transceiver and got a used on from the junkyard but it didn’t work. So I plugged in the old one again and still the same problem. Theft light is flashing. From my basic knowledge it’s telling me T16 (six flashes before the pause)

I really want to get this baby going as I want to buy these cars and fix them up for my sons when they’re older. I’m humble enough to say I just don’t know enough. Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Noobz347]

The very first thing I would do is locate and clean the grounds:

Battery to chassis
Engine block to chassis
Ground behind driver kick panel
Ground near radiator support

If one of these is loose/corroded, it explains HALF your symptoms instantly.

The very next thing would be to replace the ignition switch.

Once those are done, report back with what you have.

Disconnect the battery when you pull, clean, and reinstall these grounds. Look on Amazon for some contact/corrosion cleaners. I use a brand called, "DeoxIT" for contact cleaner and lube.

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

The very first thing I would do is locate and clean the grounds:

Battery to chassis
Engine block to chassis
Ground behind driver kick panel
Ground near radiator support

If one of these is loose/corroded, it explains HALF your symptoms instantly.

The very next thing would be to replace the ignition switch.

Once those are done, report back with what you have.

Disconnect the battery when you pull, clean, and reinstall these grounds. Look on Amazon for some contact/corrosion cleaners. I use a brand called, "DeoxIT" for contact cleaner and lube.

Thank you I’m going to check those out this week, when I have time to work more on my car. I’m going to share some of the trouble codes my scanner is showing me now.

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

Btw love, hate this car I have to go to my job to pick up some of my tools to work on it today and it works for the time being. Going to go there and do as instructed I have 3/4 grounds cleaned out and greased as directed.

 

[Noobz347]

Most of the hate is generated by gremlins created by age and previous owners.

Once you get on top of them, they're really reliable.

I'm not a [huge] fan of the non-V8 cars but my wife had an S-197 Convertible and she loved it. Admittedly, it was a fun car to drive.

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

Btw love, hate this car I have to go to my job to pick up some of my tools to work on it today and it works for the time being. Going to go there and do as instructed I have 3/4 grounds cleaned out and greased as directed.

This is KOER PCM code

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

Most of the hate is generated by gremlins created by age and previous owners.

Once you get on top of them, they're really reliable.

I'm not a [huge] fan of the non-V8 cars but my wife had an S-197 Convertible and she loved it. Admittedly, it was a fun car to drive.

Yeah, the vehicle was a barn find, pulled it off a ranch, I can’t find many like these in my area that can even run. I have the V6 model for my kids. I have my other one all fixed up already over there, no nightmare at all, just a basic tune up and fluid/ filter flushes and runs like a charm. Just dealing with this electrical nightmare in this boy

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

So here are some values that are abnormal maybe that can help scope down where this is all stemming from.


Throttle position rate: 492 [-100…100]

Fuel Pump monitor: 275/300 [0…120]

PCM live Data^



Alarm Event 1-8: Panic

GEM^

Everything else looks normal. Within range or OK.

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

So here are some values that are abnormal maybe that can help scope down where this is all stemming from.


Throttle position rate: 492 [-100…100]

Fuel Pump monitor: 275/300 [0…120]

PCM live Data^



Alarm Event 1-8: Panic

GEM^

Everything else looks normal. Within range or OK.

Update I’m going through every sensor and pigtail cleaning and applying dielectric grease and found this. Car runs without it. But I’m sure it’s needed.

Quick update I removed every single sensor and connection in the engine bay secured all ground terminals and hand tighten using grease everywhere. All trouble codes cleared up. And vehicle looks like it’s running good with the bypass on as well. Vehicle is starting up no problems at this time. Key is stand alone no rings. I have to add new keys to program since I already ordered the spare.


Headlights are still not working and everything is secured and tight. Everything has power bulb is functioning and pig tail is reading dead. I trace it back to the fuse box but fuse has power, so maybe bad wires going to the bulb from the junction box??

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

Both high beams are working now. Turning signal DS and PS not working but rear tail both sides lights are good and working as designed at this time.

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

After cleaning out these terminals and using more grease. Everything disappeared. Also wiped down the throttle body

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

Deceptive instrument cluster

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

Deceptive instrument cluster

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

I’m thinking I need a new fuel rail pressure sensor and a new throttle position sensor?

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

Or maybe internally my pcm is faulty?

 

[Noobz347]

If the PCM were bad, you'd probably have a code for it failing self-check.

 

[TheIncompetentMechanic]

If the PCM were bad, you'd probably have a code for it failing self-check.

My cars theft light came back. Momentarily, when I was getting ready to leave work I brought it into the shop to clean it out and diagnose my oil leak ( valve covers, super small amounts oil still at F line ). I did the reset, open and close all doors and locked everything, let car rest for 4 minutes. (Still didn’t work) Left key in ignition until theft light disappeared. Then it started back up.

I ordered some keys from Amazon with the same transponder chip as my key had a guy I know cut them correctly and going to program them to see if it fixes the issue if not I’ll try the good ole antenna extension trick to get that transponder read.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Amazon keys sometimes don't program right. Hit or miss on quality of the key. If you start the PATS key programming process, you need to program at least two keys for it to complete. If one Amazon key is junk, and you program only 1 other key, the process gets stuck and you won't be able to program any keys until you get get a 2nd key.

Strattec makes the official licensed keys for Ford. Part number 597602 and roughly $20 or so per key.

The receiver module under the ignition tumbler can sometimes take a dump as well on these cars. Unfortunately harder to find that part. Try the keys and see if a different key is read better by the receiver unit.

As for the odometer not working sometimes. That issue is due to the solder joints on the ribbon that goes between the odometer board and main board. Just need to reflow the connection points and that should fix that issue.