got a quick one. want to install 2nd temp gauge while retaining function of the original. someone said there is a location on the back of the intake. can someone tell me where exactly to look and what is involved to get to it. are there any other places to tap a gauge into?
2nd temp sender location
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YELLOWLXCOUPE
Founding Member
im not sure if all the brands of lower intakes are like this or not ... but on the driver side front is where the stock one is ... but exactly to the rear there was another hole where i put mine ....
I install them on top of the thermostat housing. There is a small hole there that will need to be enlarged and completely drilled out, then tapped. Take the housing to a machine shop along w/ your temp sending fittings and have them work it for you (probably cost $15-$20 but cheaper than buying a large drill bit and tap).
5.0GT said:
that would be the easiest, but i thought for a cooling sender, you needed to have the probe be in the coolant flow. with a T fitting, there would be an alcove of coolant that is not in the flow, and neither gauge would read properly. is this right? please let me know, cuz it would be easy to do this, if my concerns above are not valid.
thank you for the input
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
I don't believe you'd have enough contact if you T'd the sensor, there isn't that much pressure in the system (not like oil).
Keep the one you want to be the most accurate up front in the stock location.
There are two holes in the rear you can use on the stock intake. 1 is used on the passenger side for the EGR coolant hose return. On the other side, there is a simple plug in the hole. If you have the stock intake, you can't miss it.
Here's a shot of the intake and you can see the two threaded holes at the rear (left) side. The one you want it the hole in the picture on the top left of the intakes on the raised portion. The stock fitting is at the top right of the picture and it the most accurate place for a sender.
I have my autometer sender in the stock location and put the stock sender at the rear
There are two holes in the rear you can use on the stock intake. 1 is used on the passenger side for the EGR coolant hose return. On the other side, there is a simple plug in the hole. If you have the stock intake, you can't miss it.
Here's a shot of the intake and you can see the two threaded holes at the rear (left) side. The one you want it the hole in the picture on the top left of the intakes on the raised portion. The stock fitting is at the top right of the picture and it the most accurate place for a sender.
I have my autometer sender in the stock location and put the stock sender at the rear
Legendary
Founding Member
Legendary said:
Yup, i did mine with the upper intake on. Was a bit tricky but i got it pretty easily
MUSTANG5L5. awesome pics and description. even stupid me understoood that. i really appreciate it. (mike, i think you may have answered the same question for me b4, but i wasnt sure where the plug was, hence this post.)
honestly, i havent looked yet (waiting for daylight tomorrow). what is involved in taking the plug out? what does the plug look like? with my luck, i'd remove the wrong thing
i really appreciate everyone's responses. i have been trying to get this for awhile, but w/o pics and detailed description, i'm too dumb to figure it out. i will hook it up the same way you did.
last question. last time i did a temp gauge (years ago), it was a mechanical gauge (i know you get what you pay for, but i cant afford expensive gauges. this is a reason why i want 2 gauges for peace of mind on one fritzing). would electrical or mechanical be better? im gonna find the plug and then go buy gauges.
thanks again everyone. proving once again, this forum rocks
honestly, i havent looked yet (waiting for daylight tomorrow). what is involved in taking the plug out? what does the plug look like? with my luck, i'd remove the wrong thing
i really appreciate everyone's responses. i have been trying to get this for awhile, but w/o pics and detailed description, i'm too dumb to figure it out. i will hook it up the same way you did.
last question. last time i did a temp gauge (years ago), it was a mechanical gauge (i know you get what you pay for, but i cant afford expensive gauges. this is a reason why i want 2 gauges for peace of mind on one fritzing). would electrical or mechanical be better? im gonna find the plug and then go buy gauges.
thanks again everyone. proving once again, this forum rocks
hey guys. as i sometimes do, i am wirting a follow up for future searchers. this is what worked for me.
there is a brass or copper four sided plug a little towards the drivers side of the PCV valve, on the back (firewall side) of the lower intake. i couldnt find any wrench to remove it. i took the upper off and still could not budge the plug with an open end wrench (seized in there). i took a relatively small (~24mm) 1/2 inch socket. put a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on and then some extensions (most of my extensions are 3/8). the thing is, put the adapter and sockets on backwards, so that the extension inserts into the part of the socket where the bolt head usually goes. this way, when you put the 1/2 inch socket on the plug, the square part of the socket where the rachet usually attaches will fit over the plug perfectly. you will either want to jam the socket onto the plug or else leave the adapter off a little bit (if it goes all the way thru the square part, there is no where for the plug to go into). rachet it off.
you may all know this, but i had no idea and couldnt see it well enough with the upper on to figure it out. doing it this way, i believe the upper could have been left on, ask Mustang5L5 said.
i bought a new sender for $4.19 at checker and put it in the rear plug location. for the sender wire, i used a jumper wire to attach to the stock sending wire (i didnt want to peel it out of the harness). i had a bullet male connector that fit. i ran this to the new location and used a female bullet connector to attach the sender wire to the sending unit.
i ran the sender (mechanical gauge) through the rubber dealie that surrounds the steering shaft on the firewall. be careful of your wiring, especially around the gas and brake pedal. use wire ties etc.
for what it is worth, basing my comments on the fact that i assume the mid point of the stock gauge to be 200* (halfway between 130 and 270), both gauges seem to read very similar when hot. today, my stock gauge was about 1/2 way to the mid point (theoretically around 165), yet my mechanical was reading around 190. then magically, the stocker caught up while the new gauge remained.
as i said, this is what worked for me. feel free to P.M. for future questions.
there is a brass or copper four sided plug a little towards the drivers side of the PCV valve, on the back (firewall side) of the lower intake. i couldnt find any wrench to remove it. i took the upper off and still could not budge the plug with an open end wrench (seized in there). i took a relatively small (~24mm) 1/2 inch socket. put a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter on and then some extensions (most of my extensions are 3/8). the thing is, put the adapter and sockets on backwards, so that the extension inserts into the part of the socket where the bolt head usually goes. this way, when you put the 1/2 inch socket on the plug, the square part of the socket where the rachet usually attaches will fit over the plug perfectly. you will either want to jam the socket onto the plug or else leave the adapter off a little bit (if it goes all the way thru the square part, there is no where for the plug to go into). rachet it off.
you may all know this, but i had no idea and couldnt see it well enough with the upper on to figure it out. doing it this way, i believe the upper could have been left on, ask Mustang5L5 said.
i bought a new sender for $4.19 at checker and put it in the rear plug location. for the sender wire, i used a jumper wire to attach to the stock sending wire (i didnt want to peel it out of the harness). i had a bullet male connector that fit. i ran this to the new location and used a female bullet connector to attach the sender wire to the sending unit.
i ran the sender (mechanical gauge) through the rubber dealie that surrounds the steering shaft on the firewall. be careful of your wiring, especially around the gas and brake pedal. use wire ties etc.
for what it is worth, basing my comments on the fact that i assume the mid point of the stock gauge to be 200* (halfway between 130 and 270), both gauges seem to read very similar when hot. today, my stock gauge was about 1/2 way to the mid point (theoretically around 165), yet my mechanical was reading around 190. then magically, the stocker caught up while the new gauge remained.
as i said, this is what worked for me. feel free to P.M. for future questions.
bock
Founding Member
The autometer water gauge,is there a adapter to fit the fiting in the intake,my autometer gauge (#3432) have a ½ fiting,the intake hole is 3/8 ?? 
bock said:The autometer water gauge,is there a adapter to fit the fiting in the intake,my autometer gauge (#3432) have a ½ fiting,the intake hole is 3/8 ??
Non of the autometers I have ever installed come with the correct adapter, you can get one at Lowes or your local parts store, I prefer the brass or Stainless steel.
HISSIN50 said:Rick, my bad. i thought i remembered Jerry telling someone that the Autometers came with the correct adapter. oops. thanks for correcting my mistake.
No problem, they don't included it but they sure can sell you the correct one..lol I remember the first time I went to install mine, man did that piss me off...the joys of being 18 and impaitent, man I have learned a lot, my car has been apart for almost 2 years!
I have to agree that the best place is in the thermostat housing where the water flows over the sensor all the time. Here is a pic of one I did. I have a few of these housings and will supply them bead blasted, drilled, tapped to anyone for $20 shipped.................
up front
I just installed a mechanical temp gauge by autometer, and I thought about the thermostat housing idea too. The problem I ran into with that was the probe was too long and didnt fit inside the t stat housing. It bottomed out.
So I put it up front where the stock unit was and moved the stocker to the back.
You do need an adapter like everyone has been telling ya, the part number for jegs is 105-2263.
Than your all set.
good luck
I just installed a mechanical temp gauge by autometer, and I thought about the thermostat housing idea too. The problem I ran into with that was the probe was too long and didnt fit inside the t stat housing. It bottomed out.
So I put it up front where the stock unit was and moved the stocker to the back.
You do need an adapter like everyone has been telling ya, the part number for jegs is 105-2263.
Than your all set.
good luck
In that case you can put the stock unit in the T-stat housing and put the Autometer one in the intake. The holes in the back don't get the same flow as at the front of the engine.
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