351 Cleveland headers
- Thread starter mcode
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
ddonaca351
Active Member
I did, but I built my own (cuz I couldn't find any that fit well).
But I have a 4spd car... with an auto you should have lotts of choices available.
I know that's not exactly the info you're looking for... but it may help somebody out there so I'll digress for a min...
If you can weld: get a generic header kit from summitt, if you cant find any flanges premade for a C, then a local machine shop can make you a set from a header gasket for probably 50-60 bucks... anyhow, get a generic header kit and spend a couple weeks of nights and weekends and make your own. Its not that hard, take your time... measure 3-4 times, cut once.
Then after their done, you can take em to a local coating outfit and get em ceramic coated. (or you can do that yourself too, if you like)
Forget about all that equal length bs, and they dont need to be huge... about 1.75 - 1.875 on the headtubes and run em bown to a 3" collector.
Also when ya do the collectors: double up on the 3 bolt flange at the bottom of the header collector (weld 2 of em together before ya put em on) it will help stop them from warping when tightened.
Then weld em on to the collector so that the whole 2nd flange hangs off past the end of the collector (so you have about .250 of the hevy 3 bolt flange protuding past the end of the collector).
Now when you mount the corresponding flange on the H pipe, let the H pipe protrude up through the 3 bolt flange about .125 (so youve basically slid the H pipe side of the 3 bolt flange onto the H pipe and then welded it in place) Now when you put the gasket in place the .125 of H pipe sticks up inside the gasket and keeps it from being "blown out".
** note ** : weld the flange on the collector on the "up-hill" side of the flange and the flange on the H pipe on the "down-hill" side of the flange, so the beads of weld dont get in the way of a nice tight fit.
Hope this helps some of my fellow 4spd guys...
Dave
But I have a 4spd car... with an auto you should have lotts of choices available.
I know that's not exactly the info you're looking for... but it may help somebody out there so I'll digress for a min...
If you can weld: get a generic header kit from summitt, if you cant find any flanges premade for a C, then a local machine shop can make you a set from a header gasket for probably 50-60 bucks... anyhow, get a generic header kit and spend a couple weeks of nights and weekends and make your own. Its not that hard, take your time... measure 3-4 times, cut once.
Then after their done, you can take em to a local coating outfit and get em ceramic coated. (or you can do that yourself too, if you like)Forget about all that equal length bs, and they dont need to be huge... about 1.75 - 1.875 on the headtubes and run em bown to a 3" collector.
Also when ya do the collectors: double up on the 3 bolt flange at the bottom of the header collector (weld 2 of em together before ya put em on) it will help stop them from warping when tightened.
Then weld em on to the collector so that the whole 2nd flange hangs off past the end of the collector (so you have about .250 of the hevy 3 bolt flange protuding past the end of the collector).
Now when you mount the corresponding flange on the H pipe, let the H pipe protrude up through the 3 bolt flange about .125 (so youve basically slid the H pipe side of the 3 bolt flange onto the H pipe and then welded it in place) Now when you put the gasket in place the .125 of H pipe sticks up inside the gasket and keeps it from being "blown out".
** note ** : weld the flange on the collector on the "up-hill" side of the flange and the flange on the H pipe on the "down-hill" side of the flange, so the beads of weld dont get in the way of a nice tight fit.
Hope this helps some of my fellow 4spd guys...
Dave
dodgestang
Active Member
I can't speak to the rack...but I can tell you the ford power train 4v headers will clear the AOD
Similar threads
