Progress Thread 43 years later

This must not be water tight. On my 66 I even had no cover or something, it was just open. No problems with that.
Will the sheet metal bolt nicely to the bellhousing, if you leave the rubber away?
Regarding the wear on the hydraulic lines at the hole: cut up a piece (2-3 inch length) of rubber hose in length direction and fix it with a hose clamp to both hydraulic lines.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
  • Sponsors (?)


Just edited my post and added following:
Regarding the wear on the hydraulic lines at the hole: cut up a piece (2-3 inch length) of rubber hose in length direction and fix it with a hose clamp to both hydraulic lines.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
Well I think this will work much better.
IMG_3304.JPG
Now on to the next item. But! It's beer time. Happy Memorial Day.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
I'm done fixing old nagging problems! A little more cleaning and then a new master brake cylinder, rebleed, and I'm good to go. Tried some seat belt replacements but they weren't going to fit under the hatch window. Maybe that's why they went with two retractors...no room!
Today I decided that the driver seat was always a power seat and as long as I had it out I'd thought I'd look at what it would take to make the lumbar support. Searched the internet for electrical drawings for 2003 seats and after looking at them I went to work.
IMG_3308.JPG
I'm smiling cause I've now got lumbar full adjustment on the Cobra II.
 
  • Like
  • Winner
Reactions: 2 users
Tried some seat belt replacements but they weren't going to fit under the hatch window. Maybe that's why they went with two retractors...no room!
I have fixed hatch windows, this is why I could use them. But I cut up the side panel near the window to make a new opening for the belt. I don't think it has to do with the room available.
The universal fit retractors (like in the picture below) have the "outlet" of the retractor is in the same plane as the mounting hole. What is needed is a rectractor "outlet" that is on the other side.
Car-Parts-Universal-Sensor-Retractor-3-Point-Front-Seat-Belt.jpg


Perhaps @MustangIIMatt has some more info on the retractors he was using...
 
Today I bench bled a new master cylinder. Removed the old, installed the new, and re-bled the system. Got everything to the no leak point and took it for a spin for a couple of reasons. To check hoses on a 95 degree day and to see how the brakes feel. Drove about a mile and got back to the house. The brakes felt good the whole way. Temp stayed right in the middle all the way. The idle was set too high so I dropped it down. Man does it sound good. While turning the idle down I noticed there was brake fluid under the MC? The fittings were dry. Pulled it back in the garage and it seems there is brake fluid spouting out of the top? Do any of you guys know what could be causing this?
 
But I cut up the side panel near the window to make a new opening for the belt. I don't think it has to do with the room available.


Yes. That is the problem. I'm not going to cut up my panels. I'd love to get rid of the lower retractors but not by cutting up my car. I'll get you some pictures of the seats.
 
Today I bench bled a new master cylinder. Removed the old, installed the new, and re-bled the system. Got everything to the no leak point and took it for a spin for a couple of reasons. To check hoses on a 95 degree day and to see how the brakes feel. Drove about a mile and got back to the house. The brakes felt good the whole way. Temp stayed right in the middle all the way. The idle was set too high so I dropped it down. Man does it sound good. While turning the idle down I noticed there was brake fluid under the MC? The fittings were dry. Pulled it back in the garage and it seems there is brake fluid spouting out of the top? Do any of you guys know what could be causing this?
The only thing I can think of is if your cap's seal isn't sealing and allowing fluid to flow past. As to why it would be pressurized enough to be able to do that, I really couldn't offer an explanation although it seems I remember seeing that happen before with no cap on the master cylinder. :shrug:
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I spent a little time on the internet and think it's the cap. I'll check it out tomorrow and hope that's all it is. So Thank You for confirming my suspicions.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
The only thing I can think of is if your cap's seal isn't sealing and allowing fluid to flow past. As to why it would be pressurized enough to be able to do that, I really couldn't offer an explanation although it seems I remember seeing that happen before with no cap on the master cylinder. :shrug:
I think so too. Yesterday I looked all over for a cap. No luck, but I found a new gasket. I cleaned up the cap as best as I could and installed the gasket and put it on. Drove it today and the leak is still there but only a little. I'll put some more pressure on the hold down clamp and see it that takes care of the problem.
Started installing the door panels and it just plain got too hot to work on it any more so I took my buddy out for a ride. He was grinning.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
I've been working diligently on the cobra ii since April 15 almost every day. I've still got a little brake fluid coming out of the master cylinder which I'm determined to overcome. Took it out for a spin over to Wisconsin and back yesterday and then started washing it for the first time.

IMG_3314.JPG

Then I spent the entire late afternoon and evening waxing the first coat. Caught the sunset on the hood.
IMG_E3315.JPG
 
  • Like
  • Love
Reactions: 1 users
Took the Cobra II out for a little spin towards Iowa and got on it a little bit. Then after I slowed down I noticed my speedometer was stuck at 110. I'm not sure if it's the cable or the speedo itself. The car is sitting in the garage right now and it say it's doing 45. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user