$45.75 Ebay Contour/mystique Electric Dual Fan Out Cools $375 Flex-a-lite Extreme Puller!

[larrym1961]

I have been using the Flex-A-Lite Extreme Puller Fan with my Be Cool Radiator for several years. And have always had my Flex-A-Lite veriable fan controller set to come on @ 60% when the temp reached 185 degrees. In 90 degree heat I have never been able to keep my temps below 200 degrees in stop and go traffic. Sometimes the temps would go as high as 210. This set up has never cooled the way I expected it to.

So I figure I will try a Dual fan set up that covers my entire radiator, unlike the single Flex-A-Lite fan that only covers the center of the radiator . I posted a thread about junkyard fans such as the Contour/Mystique, Lincoln Mark VIII and Taurus fans. Gear Banger turned me onto a new Contour/Mystique dual fan set up for sale on Ebay. Starting bid was $45.75. I bid $50 and got the fan for the $45.75 and free shipping.

I removed the Flex-A-Lite fan and installed the Contour/Mystique fan, not only did it fit like a glove and look like it was meant to be on my radiator, it also out cooled the Flex-A-Lite. With my fan controller still set to come on @ 185 and driving in 90 degree temps in stop and go traffic my temps never got above 190 degrees!

So that proves to me you don't need the expensive big name, big $$$ electric fan to keep your Stang cool. Stock Ford type electric fans from Ebay or junkyards are all you need, if you go with an electric fan set up. And guys here on Stangnet know what they are talking about on how to save $$$'s. And at the same time get performance bang for the buck.

After several years I am finally happy with my engine temps in traffic on hot Summer days!!!

 

[RangerJoe]

Nice! I bought a Mitsumisho three row radiator and fan combo at a swap meet last year. I replaced my tiny radiator and dual Contour fans with it, and it never cooled very well. Kept the radiator and swapped my Contour fans back on, never even come close to over heating. It is a pretty good setup.

Joe

 

[GroverDill]

Normally OEM is always better than aftermarket

good ole Mark 8 fan cools my turbo GT just fine.

 

[larrym1961]

Normally OEM is always better than aftermarket

good ole Mark 8 fan cools my turbo GT just fine.

I am still bummed I did not get a chance to check out your Stang before I moved from Post Falls.

 

[GroverDill]

Where did you move to?

edit

I see Idaho falls.

 

[Shakerhood]

The Cougar/Contour Fans are damn near a perfect fit for the Fox.

 

[elarm1]

What controller are you all using?

 

[larrym1961]

What controller are you all using?

I am using the Flex-A-Lite 31165 veriable controller on my set up.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I have been using the Flex-A-Lite Extreme Puller Fan with my Be Cool Radiator for several years. And have always had my Flex-A-Lite veriable fan controller set to come on @ 60% when the temp reached 185 degrees. In 90 degree heat I have never been able to keep my temps below 200 degrees in stop and go traffic. Sometimes the temps would go as high as 210. This set up has never cooled the way I expected it to.

So I figure I will try a Dual fan set up that covers my entire radiator, unlike the single Flex-A-Lite fan that only covers the center of the radiator . I posted a thread about junkyard fans such as the Contour/Mystique, Lincoln Mark VIII and Taurus fans. Gear Banger turned me onto a new Contour/Mystique dual fan set up for sale on Ebay. Starting bid was $45.75. I bid $50 and got the fan for the $45.75 and free shipping.

I removed the Flex-A-Lite fan and installed the Contour/Mystique fan, not only did it fit like a glove and look like it was meant to be on my radiator, it also out cooled the Flex-A-Lite. With my fan controller still set to come on @ 185 and driving in 90 degree temps in stop and go traffic my temps never got above 190 degrees!

So that proves to me you don't need the expensive big name, big $$$ electric fan to keep your Stang cool. Stock Ford type electric fans from Ebay or junkyards are all you need, if you go with an electric fan set up. And guys here on Stangnet know what they are talking about on how to save $$$'s. And at the same time get performance bang for the buck.

After several years I am finally happy with my engine temps in traffic on hot Summer days!!!

I know this is posted somewhere on the site, but can you complete the post and tell me what years to look for?
Also, is there an OEM controller solution I can get at the same time? That would be slick to just get the whole system from the same car.

 

[larrym1961]

I know this is posted somewhere on the site, but can you complete the post and tell me what years to look for?
Also, is there an OEM controller solution I can get at the same time? That would be slick to just get the whole system from the same car.

1995-1998 Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique or 1999-2000 Mercury Cougar.

 

[Shakerhood]

1995-1998 Ford Contour/Mercury Mystique or 1999-2000 Mercury Cougar.

99-02 Mercury Cougar

 

[jrichker]

If you don't have a high current alternator, you can forget about using an electric fan. The stock 65 amp alternator on 86-93 Mustangs isn't big enough to run the fan and the rest of the car. If you have a 94 or later Mustang, the stock 3g alternator should be fine if it is working correctly.

Switching a fan on and off manually is a bad idea. Too many guys have been distracted (hot girl kissing on their neck, too much to drink, dog tired and not thinking clearly) and cooked things because they forgot to flip the switch. An equal number have forgotten to turn the switch off for the same reasons and run down their battery.

The best fan controller available today is a DC Control unit. www.dccontrol.com. Cost is about $???. Be prepared to wait 4 weeks or more to receive your controller once you have sent in your payment. The controllers are custom made in small lots and lead times can stretch out.

Next best is a SPAL controller - $70-$120 See http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?html=pwmv3. eBay will have the controllers for a bargain price: do a Google search and see what you find.

At the bottom are the Hayden or Imperial controllers available through Advance Discount Auto Parts and AutoZone. The non adjustable one is about $30 ( Hayden 226206) and the adjustable one is about $60 (Hayden 226204). I recommend you do a Google search on Hayden and the part number for more info.

Do not use a simple on/off switch without using a relay. The current load can burn up the typical cheap automotive switch very quickly. The fan draws 30+amps and you need to use #10 wire on the fan power and ground wiring.

If you are good with electrical stuff (90% of the people here aren't), build your own controller. The numbers on the diagram (#86, #87, etc) refer to the numbers on the bottom of a typical automotive relay.

Note that the temp sensor in the diagram needs to match the thermostat in your engine. The preferred arrangement is to have it open about 5 degrees above the thermostat.

To allow the ignition switch to control the fan so that it does not run when the ignition is off, connect the relay contact #86 to the red/green wire on the ignition coil or to the red/yellow wire on the coolant level sensor.

If you are an experienced electronics tech or electrical engineer, email me and I will send you the prototype drawings of a fan controller that is similar in function to the DC Control unit. It is a build it, troubleshoot it yourself item. I will not build or troubleshoot units, so it is not suitable for anyone who isn't really good with electronics.

Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.

Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.