5.0 Pandemic build

welltal89 · Nov 14, 2020

Hi all,

Wanted to chronicle my 5.0 build so that I've got somewhere to keep track of my progress. After looking for a new project fox, I decided to start with the engine since I wanted to start with a good drivetrain and drop it into something with minimal rust. I decided to go this route because the last 3 projects I've had came with issues I found out about once I got them running. I figured this would give me the opportunity to make sure everything on the engine is solid and the only issues would be ancillary (not to do with bad bearings, head gaskets, etc.)

Also, I wanted a project that didn't take up a lot of room.

New photo · Tuesday, Jul 28, 2020

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I ended up buying a 5.0 block out of a 93 mustang GT that got a 347 stroker. The guy said his kid found there was a knock, so he parked it and dropped in a new motor (wish I had that kind of money.) After bringing the block home and tearing into it, I did discover that on top of a bad 1-2 rod bearing, it looked like the oil hadn't been changed in a long time and it had been sitting in the pan for a long time. It had begun essentially turned to thick sludge. My diagnosis? Dude never changed the oil.

Follow along as I update with the teardown, thanks for stopping by!

General karthief · Nov 14, 2020

I'm watching this, I like to see what others are doing, I have a 93 (I think) hidden away but I don't know if I want a project at this time.
Where you out of?

welltal89 · Nov 22, 2020

Hey I'm in the Metro Detroit area, Canton, MI to be more specific.

So a couple of updates, I realized this engine did in fact have a bad bearing on the 1-2 crank journals. Unfortunately that means a polish is out of the question. I've ended up taking the block over to a local machine shop (mid 5 auto in Livonia) and they pretty much cleaned the block, put some new freeze plugs and oil galley plugs, put some cast pistons on the rods and gave the bores a 0.030 over. I dropped the crankshaft off at a shop called crankshaft craftsmen and they said they were pretty backed up, so we'll see how long it takes to get that back. I'm hoping for an 0.010 undersize, but I can only be so lucky with how scored 1-2 journals were. I've uploaded the pics of the teardown in the link below, feel free to check it out!

5.0 Build · Jul 28 – Aug 17, 2020

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I'm looking into getting a B303 cam so I can give this motor a little bit of personality (also because the stock cam this block had has some pitting of some sort.) Looks like I'm going to have to get some valvesprings and new hydro roller pushrods.

In addition, someone sold me their T5 NWC for 10 bucks. We'll see what's wrong with it, worst case scenario, I've got a nice garage talking piece.

Thanks for stopping by!

General karthief · Nov 22, 2020

Did they line bore it?
Asking for a friend.

welltal89 · Nov 23, 2020

I knew I was missing something, yes it's been line bored.

welltal89 · Dec 16, 2020

Hi all, a couple of updates, I finally got the crank back from the shop, it had to be turned down to a 0.020 undersize. I'm slightly bummed because I thought I'd be able to get away with a 0.010 undersize and retain a little bit more meat for more strength. This thing isn't going to be racing in the 24 hours of Le Mans, so I don't really think it'll hurt me that much. In addition, I ended up getting a Ford Performance B303 Camshaft! Kinda excited since I planned this to be a mostly stock rebuild, but the price was right and who doesn't like Ford Racing parts...right?

I also got a ring and bearing kit from summit racing (sealed power/federal mogul is what was suggested to me by the book I'm reading) I noticed something strange with the 2nd ring gaps though. The top ones seem to be around 0.018-0.020 (good enough without a need to file, 4.03*0.0045=~0.018" gap minimum) but the 2nd rings are under 0.015 (4.03*0.005=~0.020" gap minimum.) I'm going for a street application, is my math correct? Also, clarity on the oil control rings? I assume those are OK to use as is with a minimum gap of 0.010" from the wiseco piston site?

HotFox · Jan 13, 2021

I have used Crankshaft Craftmens before.

Something seems off here .018 gap min on top and .020 second? Now usually they are tighter on the second with less heat exposure to the second ring, ring material can also play a factor.

Please consult ring manufacturer or your machine shop, it would be odd to file fit one and not the other.

Scott

welltal89 · Feb 19, 2021

Hi all,
My garage isn't near warm enough for me to work on this engine without my fingers going numb, so I did the next best thing (in my opinion)

I ended up getting a 2013 Mustang GT California Special. I'm not stopping the build, but at the moment I just moved into our new house and heating up the garage is one of the last projects I get to work on.

mikestang63 · Feb 19, 2021

Gs1987GT · Feb 20, 2021

mikestang63 said:

Lol. I understand there are better choices out there these days, but I always liked the sound of the B.

If your goal isn't all out performance or building a race car, I don't think it's a bad option. Just my thoughts.

5.0 Pandemic build

welltal89

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New photo · Tuesday, Jul 28, 2020

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

welltal89

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5.0 Build · Jul 28 – Aug 17, 2020

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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