5.0 swap into 66 stang and mass air conversion

nizife

New Member
Mar 18, 2007
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:shrug:I am upgrading my 66 stang to a 5.0 with 5spd. I am also converting the speed density to mass air while doing the swap. I will be using an 86 GT 5.0 and harness for the swap. I was wondering if anyone can answer the fallowing questions.

*Do I need the TAB, TAD solenoids hooked up if I am not running the smog pump? Can I cut these out of the harness all together?

*Will a P3M computer P/N F3SF 12A650 BA out of a 93 Thunderbird work for my mass air conversion. I have been told it is comparable to the auto computer for a mustang. Which raises another concern as I will have a 5spd.

* Do I need to hook up the VSS?

*And last, Can I put the O2 sensors into my TRY Y headers towards the end of the collector or should I mount them after the collector?

I realize the 86 5.0 may not be the best of the 5.0s for the swap but the motor only has a confirmed 39k miles on it and not to mention its the only motor I have to work with. I would really appreciate any advice you guys may have!!!!!
 
:shrug:I am upgrading my 66 stang to a 5.0 with 5spd. I am also converting the speed density to mass air while doing the swap. I will be using an 86 GT 5.0 and harness for the swap. I was wondering if anyone can answer the fallowing questions.

*Do I need the TAB, TAD solenoids hooked up if I am not running the smog pump? Can I cut these out of the harness all together?

*Will a P3M computer P/N F3SF 12A650 BA out of a 93 Thunderbird work for my mass air conversion. I have been told it is comparable to the auto computer for a mustang. Which raises another concern as I will have a 5spd.

* Do I need to hook up the VSS?

*And last, Can I put the O2 sensors into my TRY Y headers towards the end of the collector or should I mount them after the collector?

I realize the 86 5.0 may not be the best of the 5.0s for the swap but the motor only has a confirmed 39k miles on it and not to mention its the only motor I have to work with. I would really appreciate any advice you guys may have!!!!!

Welcome to :SNSign:

The TAD/TAB wiring can be removed if the hardware is not to be used.

The P3M should work well for you, the auto vs manual difference will be minimal.

I would hook up the VSS, as leaving it out can cause problems with decel / coast down idle speeds.

In the headers should be good for the O2's, as long as they are long tubes.


This sounds like a fun project
A friend of mine has been talking about doing this for years...
Keep us posted on your progress.

jason