6G alternator install

[influence]

Car: 1991 5.0 GT



I just installed my New 6G Alt Today. I have tried to read up on what littel tech articles there are on this and have found that some say not to use the origianl Black and orange striped wire that you would connect to the post on the back of the Alt(instead run a seperate 4GAuge to the positive side of the Battery. Now others say run both wires and others say to run the 4 gauge to the starter solenoid. Which is correct???



I have the female D Plug for the Alt and eliminated the White looped wire. So I have 2 wires off the harness plugged into the D Plug and then the black and orange wire (this wire goes to the starter solenoid)on the post (back of ALT) then ran a seperate 4 Gauge to the Battery.



Thanks in Advance

 

[TRWXXA]

Do not use the old wiring. Run a 4ga. wire from the alternator to the hot side (the one towards the firewall) of the starter relay, or the positive battery post. Electrically, they are the same point.

If you want to know why, type "3G alternator" in the search function, and you'll find hundreds of threads on the subject.

 

[influence]

Does that go the same for the 6G

 

[HISSIN50]

Yes it is the same. The issue is one of wiring principles, not which alternator is being used.

If your new alternator cable (4 AWG, or whatever you used) has an issue (like a bad crimp, blowing a fuse, etc) then all of the 6G;s current will try to go through the stock 10 AWG charge wires (whose fusible links are not known for opening immediately when overloaded). You can see where this would be tantamount to doing an alternator upgrade and not doing a wiring upgrade. The risk of fire could be great.

And otherwise, the 4 AWG cable is more than sufficient alone - it doesnt need the stock charge cables to 'help out' with carrying the load.

Good luck.

 

[TheUser]

Are you planning to fuse the 4ga wire? I definitely would. I actually put a 140 amp(i think) circuit breaker on mine so that I wouldn't have to mess around w/ fuses. You can get fuses or circuit breakers at your local audio shop or check out http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=263-630

here is a pic of my circuit breaker:

Also, you might consider an extra ground wire. I just bought a 4ga starter wire the appropriate length and ran it from the timing cover bolt (where the battery ground is) to the fenderwell.

 

[tbovee]

Dont forget to upgrade the ground .

 

[influence]

Done

I figured it all out, I actually went in and cut back the black and orange wire in the loom (alt side)about 15" then went to the solenoid side and cut back about 10" this way there is just adead floating wire in the loom. Then I found the yellow wire at the solenoid side and cut it off as well(same spot as the Black orange wire, and soldered a new yellow wire on to the solenoid and put a connector ring on it to the solenoid. Then I went and bought a 150 amp circuit breaker only 38.00 at this electronics shop by my house. Put that on my 4 Gauge fairly close to the alternator(only avail open spot) now here is the clicncher....still got 0 volts with the ignition on on the regulator wire, well I got a schematic and realized if the cluster isnt plugged in you get zero volts, plugged in the cluster and whala...it all works great.

Thanks for everybodys help. Now I am just waiting for my electric fan to get here so I can hook that up. Just bought a PWR Aluminum radiator as well will be doing the whole install as soon as the fan arrives.

Thanks again, and Ill keep ya posted on the install.

 

[HISSIN50]

Glad to hear you got it. The I terminal on the regulator (tells the alt to turn on) would be dead without the cluster installed.

Good luck with the fan.

 

[stangster50]

Glad to hear you got it. The I terminal on the regulator (tells the alt to turn on) would be dead without the cluster installed.

Good luck with the fan.

what cluster would this be?

 

[Saleen0679]

The instrument cluster with all the gauges and more importantly in this case the charge warning indicator circuit.

 

[stangster50]

crap... so what would i have to do to get my alt to work when i put it in the car.. its an sn-95 engine so it has a 3g... however, my cluster is gone and i filled it with aftermarket guages..

 

[HISSIN50]

crap... so what would i have to do to get my alt to work when i put it in the car.. its an sn-95 engine so it has a 3g... however, my cluster is gone and i filled it with aftermarket guages..

It seems to me:

The I terminal for the regulator needs to receive a 12 volt key-on signal. However, The current goes through the battery/amp bulb, and there's a 500 Ohm resistor in parallel with the bulb (in the event that the bulb fails).

When the key is on but the car is off, the regulator grounds the I terminal, which makes the amp light come on. When the alternator spins and excites, the regulator senses this and removes the ground leg from the circuit, which makes the light go out.

For stock fox wiring, see this diagram.

Good luck.

 

[stangster50]

may i ask in idiot terms, if you can tell me how to wire the alt to work... im not worried about an amp light...

thanks

 

[HISSIN50]

may i ask in idiot terms, if you can tell me how to wire the alt to work... im not worried about an amp light...

thanks

Here are a couple of digrams that will help.

The alt circuit on a 94-95

and the circuit on a fox III.

Simply stated, the A terminal needs to see battery voltage. This is usually the charge cable.

The I terminal needs to go through the idiot light (with resistor in parallel, in the case of bulb failure). If you hit the I terminal at the regulator with direct 12 volts, bad things would happen. If you don't desire having an idiot light, I'd relocated it somewhere out of sight but keep it around (why not, though you could just use a resistor instead of a filament).

Then the S terminal is for the stator.

Good luck.

 

[taunusrainer]

Here are a couple of digrams that will help.

The alt circuit on a 94-95

and the circuit on a fox III.

Simply stated, the A terminal needs to see battery voltage. This is usually the charge cable.

The I terminal needs to go through the idiot light (with resistor in parallel, in the case of bulb failure). If you hit the I terminal at the regulator with direct 12 volts, bad things would happen. If you don't desire having an idiot light, I'd relocated it somewhere out of sight but keep it around (why not, though you could just use a resistor instead of a filament).

Then the S terminal is for the stator.

Good luck.

Desperated: Which one is the I terminal, Sir????
right, middle or left pin?

 

[taunusrainer]

Found: from left to right: yellow-white-green (yellow is A, green is I, white is not used in 1990 Mustang 5.0)

 

[HISSIN50]

Glad you got it.
White is not used because the field-winding circuit is internal on a 6G.