Vacuum at the booster should be the exact same as the manifold vacuum so check and make sure you are getting vacuum to the booster.
Resolved 87' GT hatch project
- Thread starter Stopman33
- Start date
I’ll check that out before my first drive of the year. Hopefully just a vacuum issue.
Well I attempted to get that steering slip shaft to slide out. No luck, it won’t move at all. Not quite sure what to do now. There is zero access to any straight angle on the shaft.
This is all the father I need the shaft out to get it back onto the rack. I would really like to not remove the column again.
This is all the father I need the shaft out to get it back onto the rack. I would really like to not remove the column again.
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
When I put my MM hybrid shaft in, I accidentally pushed the column shaft too far inside. I ended up using a flat tipped crowbar against the firewall (laying on my back under the car) with the tip on the shaft and pried it out the inch or so I needed it to come. If that’s what you’re trying to do?
@AeroCoupe helped me out with suggestions when I was having issues. I remember vice grips being used on the interior side of the shaft to keep it being pulled too far out.
@AeroCoupe helped me out with suggestions when I was having issues. I remember vice grips being used on the interior side of the shaft to keep it being pulled too far out.
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Ooh great idea!!! I don’t have a crowbar but I’ve got plenty of pry bars to try that! I was attempting to use a slide hammer with a vice grip attachment on a spare bolt I slid into the hole for the steering shaft bolt/nut. I got a few solid hits but it didn’t seem to move any… gonna try again tomorrow when I’m sober and energized lol.
Would there happen to be a difference between an automatic column VS a manual one? I bought the column I installed off EBay, the column that was in the car when I bought it was not correct, and if it was it didn’t have the correct wheel! My car has cruise but the wheel didn’t
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So when you look under the dash there is an outer sleeve that is pressed into the bracket closest to the firewall. Tthe steering shaft slides in and out of the outer sleeve. When you are removing the upper part of the factory intermediate shaft (what connects the steering column to the rack) you typically want to use a set of vise grips on the inside of the car so that when pulling that upper part of the intermediate shaft out of the steering column you do not pull the steering shaft out of the column. Found this picture on eBay (it's $299 so if anyone needs a clock spring...).
In your case you are trying to pull the steering shaft further out of the steering column so the vise grips will not help. This thread may provide some help:
In your case you are trying to pull the steering shaft further out of the steering column so the vise grips will not help. This thread may provide some help:
gkomo
now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
For my case, with the help of @AeroCoupe I put the vice grips on the interior side of the shaft like an inch away from the firewall just so I didn’t pull it too far out, if I recall correctly. Because with the prybar method I used it’s like you put pressure on the exterior shaft, and it frees and releases all at once. Just going off memory here.
got the shaft on! I used that pry bar trick and was able to get the shaft pulled out the extra inch I needed. I took the car out for a test drive today the brake master push rod was definitely too long and was causing the brakes to drag a LOT. I backed it off and my power brakes work fantastic the old booster was for sure damaged by the old leaking master cylinder. I need to go through and properly set the length but for now it is better than it was before. Also that oil pressure gauge I tapped in works great! Didn’t leak a drop of oil.
Greatly appreciate the help! Couldn’t have done it alone.
Greatly appreciate the help! Couldn’t have done it alone.
Began my intake swap today! got the upper intake removed and my fuel injectors out. I noticed two of the injectors seemed to be missing the little tip cover part. I ended up pulling the rail out of the injectors and then removing the injectors from the manifold. I absolutely could not get the fuel lines to the rail disconnected.
I also ordered a set of BBK long tube headers, I've heard mixed things about them but I don't quite wanna break the bank on a set. Also ignore the spark plug in the smog lines I will be properly blocking those off ports in the heads with the intake removed
One of the injectors that's missing the little tip part. I didn't see anything in the injector holes.
I also ordered a set of BBK long tube headers, I've heard mixed things about them but I don't quite wanna break the bank on a set. Also ignore the spark plug in the smog lines
I will be properly blocking those off ports in the heads with the intake removed
One of the injectors that's missing the little tip part. I didn't see anything in the injector holes.
That and the new exhaust I plan to do I'm hoping to pick up some more HP and torques. Might put it on the dyno at street machines this year.
They are called pintle caps. You should replace all the o-rings on the injectors and all the caps. Use a little silicone grease on the o-rings when reinstalling into the intake and on the injector rail side as well.
You can find kits like this:
You can find kits like this:
DadLife0724
Active Member
View: https://youtu.be/gS9Q9TVGjUw?si=blKNlNj6TxMX_iNH
I used this method. It worked really well. Get your injector rebuild kit and test and clean them at the same time. 1 stone, 3 birds..... Or whatever.
I e seen that method work as well. For me I wanted to know what the spray pattern looked like and flow rates were as received and then what they looked like abs flowed after cleaning. You are only getting flow rates from a person that has a bench.
Stock build this isn’t 100% necessary but at least you know you have fully functioning injectors when professionally cleaned.
Stock build this isn’t 100% necessary but at least you know you have fully functioning injectors when professionally cleaned.
Almost done with this intake and header install. The bbk long tubes do NOT clear my steering shaft (factory rag joint) Did notice my engine mounts looked worn so I decided to replace them. Unfortunately I rounded one of the bolts to the block, I would rather just wait to replace them when I can get the car on a lift, so I ordered a new steering shaft which should clear no problem.
Intake has gone very well aside from having some trouble getting the vac lines set up. waiting on throttle body gaskets and then I can finally start the engine
oh and reassemble the rest of the motor
Also a friend of a friend is selling a set of 4.10's he took out of his car for a fair price might take him up on that.
Intake has gone very well aside from having some trouble getting the vac lines set up. waiting on throttle body gaskets and then I can finally start the engine
oh and reassemble the rest of the motor
Also a friend of a friend is selling a set of 4.10's he took out of his car for a fair price might take him up on that.
New steering shaft is in, go figure it also doesn’t clear the headers… it’s a better fit but still hits and now in two places! also lining up the set screw with the flat spot on the rack the wheel is now turned 90 degrees...
I don’t know if just replacing the engine mounts is gonna get me the extra height, tempted to make or buy engine mount spacers. I’d prefer not to clearance the headers any other ideas?
I don’t know if just replacing the engine mounts is gonna get me the extra height, tempted to make or buy engine mount spacers. I’d prefer not to clearance the headers any other ideas?
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