Progress Thread '88 GT Hell Horse - All over the place

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Got the last item in the mail... PISTONS!!!!

These things look sweet with the massive 13cc dish in them. The quality of the pistons are awesome.

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Well, I thought I got the final pieces needed before taking it all to the machine shop. I wasn't thinking on the smaller items still needed such as the Main Studs, since they are needed when they do the line hone on the block. I also needed to get the cam bearings, so they can be pre-installed in the block as well. The only thing that I am going to wait on are the rod and main bearings. I will have them mic everything to make sure that I get the right ones.
 
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I know that I am getting ahead of myself, but were thinking of the brakes on the car. Mainly, because the new stuff that LMR has been putting out including the cobra anti-moan brackets. I am currently using 98 GT rear brackets with the 10.84" rotors, but thought the same calipers could be used on the larger cobra rotors?

@Mustang5L5

I really like my combo of the 14" GT500 fronts with the rear disc, but wish the rotors where larger for heat dissipation and appearance in the 18" wheels. Im going to be replacing all the rotors and pads on this build to something more aggressive anyways.
 
You can use the same calipers, but you need to either modify the GT pad bracket, or buy the cobra brackets. The slot that the rotor passes through is wider for the thicker rotor

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you could also swap the 38mm SN95 calipers for the taurus 43mm calipers too...
 
You can use the same calipers, but you need to either modify the GT pad bracket, or buy the cobra brackets. The slot that the rotor passes through is wider for the thicker rotor

C4693F5B-C1D3-45D5-B3FA-DFFCF9F77C3F.jpeg


you could also swap the 38mm SN95 calipers for the taurus 43mm calipers too...
Thank you!

I rather keep the 38mm piston sizing due to the F/R brake bias. I talked with Jack Hidley, and the math came out that I could keep the stock master cylinder and booster. I just need to adjust the brake booster pin as its always been to far out IMO.

@Mustang5L5 do you happen to know the stock part number of the cobra brackets?
 
I got the small items ordered now:
- Clevite Cam Bearings
- ARP Main Studs
- 9333PT1 Head Gaskets

After these come in I can take everything to the machine shop.
 
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After some more thinking, I am going to wait until I get the balancer and flexplate as well. Im not sure if they are needed for an internally balanced assembly, but would like it better to have them in hand. The next piece of the puzzle is mating the 6R80 to the back of the engine.

PA sells a kit for $500+ which is nothing more than two pieces of aluminum and a handful of bolts. They don't even make the the plate in one piece leaving a gap at the top, which we all know things will get dropped into. Also the reviews of there machining and tolerances are not that great as well. Lastly, they sell another kit that is another $100+ with the necessary spacers for the convertor due to the additional spacing of the adaptor.

With all that being said I'm just going to make my own... I mean not like Mike :hide: but design a 3D model of it and print it on my big printer to ensure correct fitment. I will then send it off to be cut out of aluminum or steel for the final product.

Flexplate... Not sure what I am going to do there just yet. I could just get a good SFI plate and get spacers made for it or get a custom plate machined. I think Im going to start with a call over to TCI to see what they have to say about the combo and the best options.
 
I figured out the balancer and the flexplate wanted for this build, and they are on the way now. Of course with any build its all the small things that start to add up including my slow collection of ARP bolts. I traded off the old engine for more toys and parts, but left me with needing some of the small stuff like harmonic balancer bolt, cam bolt, thruster plate and bolts, etc. Just slowly working through the parts for this build.

I did purchase the 6R80 that only had 53K on it. From further research just like all Ford transmissions there are small differences between the years and the model these transmissions were installed in. They dont recommend the early models from 2009-2010, but do recommend the 2011-2013. In 2014 they changed the front pump and some of the internals for the stop/start feature that are not desirable. Also, you want to get one from an F150 due to them having extra clutches installed in them over the mustang version. This means the best one to get is from a 2011-2013 F150, which I got a 2013 F150 model. There are some small items again that will be needed like a new crossmember, shifter lever, transmission cooler adapter fittings, etc that all can be purchased from PBH (Power By the Hour)

Next was the adapter plate to mate the engine and transmission together. I was going to make my own, but found another supplier of the plate that's made of 3/8 thick steel. I just need to purchase the necessary hardware to mount the adapter plate and for the transmission. Went ahead and grabbed it, so it should be here this week as well.

Lastly, this item I was worried about due to the issues Mike ran into with his car. Since the adapter is adding a 3/8 gap between the engine and the transmission this is of course going to mess with the torque converter mounting and the snout that rides in the flexplate. I decided to give FTI a call to see if they have done this type of build before, which they then put me on hold asked around saying no but... If you are willing to test out the converter for us we can make one for you. They of course need some measurements of the adapter plate, torque converter snout diameter, and converter spacing for the feet. I decided to go with there triple disc as it gives the most flexibility of lock-up in every gear, and can handle 1000hp, which wont be anywhere near that on this build. For the price already paying for this might as well put the best in there.
 
I figured out the balancer and the flexplate wanted for this build, and they are on the way now. Of course with any build its all the small things that start to add up including my slow collection of ARP bolts. I traded off the old engine for more toys and parts, but left me with needing some of the small stuff like harmonic balancer bolt, cam bolt, thruster plate and bolts, etc. Just slowly working through the parts for this build.

I did purchase the 6R80 that only had 53K on it. From further research just like all Ford transmissions there are small differences between the years and the model these transmissions were installed in. They dont recommend the early models from 2009-2010, but do recommend the 2011-2013. In 2014 they changed the front pump and some of the internals for the stop/start feature that are not desirable. Also, you want to get one from an F150 due to them having extra clutches installed in them over the mustang version. This means the best one to get is from a 2011-2013 F150, which I got a 2013 F150 model. There are some small items again that will be needed like a new crossmember, shifter lever, transmission cooler adapter fittings, etc that all can be purchased from PBH (Power By the Hour)

Next was the adapter plate to mate the engine and transmission together. I was going to make my own, but found another supplier of the plate that's made of 3/8 thick steel. I just need to purchase the necessary hardware to mount the adapter plate and for the transmission. Went ahead and grabbed it, so it should be here this week as well.

Lastly, this item I was worried about due to the issues Mike ran into with his car. Since the adapter is adding a 3/8 gap between the engine and the transmission this is of course going to mess with the torque converter mounting and the snout that rides in the flexplate. I decided to give FTI a call to see if they have done this type of build before, which they then put me on hold asked around saying no but... If you are willing to test out the converter for us we can make one for you. They of course need some measurements of the adapter plate, torque converter snout diameter, and converter spacing for the feet. I decided to go with there triple disc as it gives the most flexibility of lock-up in every gear, and can handle 1000hp, which wont be anywhere near that on this build. For the price already paying for this might as well put the best in there.
Well, I’m glad I could take the “ One small step for man” so that the rest of mankind would know “just to buy the adapter”.

Ill bet that triple clutch converter set you back a pretty penny,...What,...about 12,000 of them?
 
Well, I’m glad I could take the “ One small step for man” so that the rest of mankind would know “just to buy the adapter”.

Ill bet that triple clutch converter set you back a pretty penny,...What,...about 12,000 of them?
Lots of pretty pennies of $1200 so drop a zero, but for the combo that I'm building and ability to handle anything now or in the future gives me peace of mind