New issue. Went thru alternator checklist. With key on i have no power at the green with red stripe wire running to the alternator. The fuse is good but the dummy guage needle still moves with key on.....weird. so basically i have a wire break somewhere. Crap. Can I jumper the 2 wires together to get the alternator to run?
Ok. So on advice I checked the ignition switch. First of all the switch looks good, but the pigtail was a mess, literally broke in my hand. I think they had good contact to the plug but had to replace it anyhow. Found this wire struggling for life all lonely under dash, black with purple stripe. Any idea where he lives?
Lets say, hypothetically, after someone repaired the female end of his starter switch and went to plug the starter switch back onto the column, and forgot the battery was still connected and also accidently stuck the ignition pin, not in the slot for the switch but in the gap in the ignition switch that then sparked, smoked and then popped something under the hood. Clearly I will be replacing the brand new starter switch again, I mean a guy would want to.
And if when the old switch was replaced properly and the battery reconnected and the key turned nothing happened, no lights, nothing and a smell of burnt wires from the starting solenoid. Would you suspect a fried starter solenoid only or would there be other things that would now also possibly fried? Fused links?
It turned out to be a very good thing because they were a mess and I think some of them were nearly out anyway. I say that now that the job is over. I can't try to fire it up to test as all the babies are asleep. May be back where I started with car shutting off. While I was under the hood I still did not discover why my key on wire to the alternator is not getting any juice. I read something about wiring both the yellow and green wire directly to the charge wire and running as a "one wire" alternator. Is this a viable option?
Also I found a new male plug, daingling, struggling for life near where the ignition wire fuse links were, it had continuity to a few of the plugs on the ignition pigtail. It looks like a possibly a fog light? Really short if it is. Black with green and black with yellow. Ill start digging in very useful.com anybody name that plug off the top of their head?
Ok, I ran out to my 89 gt, my wiring is original and still mounted in the right places which makes it difficult, I think my colors are different too but best guess would be fog lights? Does yours have fog lights still?
Great, thank you guys! Much appreciated. I literally would be lost without this community.
I am workin my way down the idle stall checklist now. When I got the car the IAC was upside down. I "fixed" than and cleaned it replacing gaskets. I was struck by the checklist that some people flip the IAC over to fix idle issues....so I reversed it before work, testing will take place tomorrow. Mabe that was the issue the old owner had. Also the connector was near impossible to plug in "right side up" because the IAC plastic plug does not take a 90 deg turn, just straight out from the IAC and the harness plug wire is not long enough to reach. From pictures I've seen all the stang IACs have a 90 bend at the plug. I'm a little confused. It had Ford stamped right on it. Do I have a aftermarket? Mabe a non mustang but other ford product IAC? Do explorer IACs fit on a mustang?
I think you have an IAC from another vehicle. I can tell you that the air bypass holes in some are different sizes.
I pulled one in the junkyard off an escort and the holes were smaller than a mustang one. Tge reason i know is because i was working on an escort years ago..... Thought the iac would fix it.....it didn't. Held on that thing for a couple years thinking i could use it on a mustang. Couldn't use it and slapped myself for holding on to that POS for so long. The plug matched up....but it was all wrong.
I have results, thank you all again! I ran codes with some help from "stangnets favorate tool". Some make sense to me, some don't. Also I looked up the IAC numbers stamped on the part, sure enough, it is from a 1990 escort. Gold star for 90sickfox! I unplugged the IAC and the car stays running, at 1500rpm but it was sustaining running! My alternator still not charging but I will attack that later today. So now on to the codes!
Key On Engine Off; I got a 81-thermactor air circuit. This makes sense, my EGR system is present but not connected to exhaust midpipe and of questionable functionality.
When running (so very happy to say) I got:
33-again, EGR, so makes sense
41- O2 sensor signal-not sure about this, my O2 sensors are new. IS THIS RELATED TO THE EGR OR SOME OTHER ISSUE?
91-"O2 sensor problem, fuel pressure out of spec range or injectors out of balance"-COULD THIS BE BECAUSE I HAVE A 255LPH FUEL PUMP OR BECAUSE MY FPR IS BAD?
12-Idle speed out of spec....yeah cause IAC is unplugged and running at 1500rpm, makes sense
13- Idle not in spec range. Again noted cause I have a disconnected escort IAC lol.
Unfortunately, I am out of fun money now so I can't go get a new IAC at the parts store. That will have to wait till the end of the month. It seems as if that is the only thing, (besides my e-fan draining my battery in about 10 minutes with no alternator) keeping me from taking this pile of junk on a test drive now.
So any thoughts on this O2 sensor or fuel pressure codes?