92 Gt W/351w Advice Needed

here are some pics of where i am at now. If i bypass the heater core i think i just need to tighten down the fuel lines to the bowl and fill it up with coolant and see what happens.

one of the pics i included is what my pickup looked like. you can see that i made it way to short.

heater core has been bypass.

I also spent some time on the hood. I have plenty of clearance but it just shuts like crap. But i did get it to latch much better so I have alot more confidence that it won't fly up on me if i ever get this thing going.

Question about my mechanical pump install. Should i have put some assembly lube on the arm of the pump before i put it in? i have cranked the car over a fair amount already. Should i take it back out and throw some oil or assembly lube on it?

I need to find two m18x1.5mm plugs to plug up the o2 holes. For some reason that is a little bit more difficult than i thought it would be. I have one last hardware store i can try but it looks like i am probably going to have to order them.

Is it possible for me to run some wire to my gauge cluster to get them to work or do i need to buy some aftermarket ones since i got rid of my wiring harness. Running one wire for my oil pressure and temp gauge i don't think would be to bad but i don't really know how i would hook them up under the dash. I would like to get either my gauges to work or some aftermarket ones just to keep an eye on things since i have had my hands all over this motor.

I also finally found a good spot to mount my duraspark box and coil. I am going to put in on the passenger side fender where the airbox used to be. Should have plenty of air flow to keep cool over there.

lots of pics tommorow and maybe even a quick startup.

not the exciting day i had hoped for. I got the duraspark box and coil mounted in a spot that i don't think looks to stupid. I still need to shorten a couple of the wires but i want to start it before i solder everything and make it look neat.

my big moment of hearing it start today will have to wait. I tried but it wouldn't start. i have fuel up the fuel filter just below the carb. I can smell a touch of gas so i am guessing it is all the way in the carb. I tried giving the pedal a little gas and it still wouldn't go. after giving that a couple tries i noticed my water pump was leaking coolant so I had to abort. it is coming from the to flat bolts on the motor side of the pump. I am guessing i didn't tighten them down enough.


I didn't have anyone else around so I couldn't check my timing by cranking the car over. I also couldn't check to see if i was getting any spark. Those two things will have to wait until friday win I can trick my wife into helping me for a couple minutes.



somehow i need to check if my duraspark is wired properly. The colors are not all the same as the factory wiring diagram i usually see.

this is the box i bought

Driveworks Ignition Control Module 21070: Advance Auto Parts

this is the distributor i got

Cardone Distributor - Electronic - Remanufactured 30-2895: Advance Auto Parts

these are my connectors with the colors. nothing really matches up

through my testing of the ignition stuff it seems my coil is good but i need to put a ballast resistor in. The ground wire going to the dist was fine but the other two looked to be off so i swapped them. When I was doing that i looked up how to test a distributor.

if you get a multi meter and connect one lead to the ground wire and the other lead to the body you should get zero ohms when you are on the 2k ohm. that checked out fine.

when you have the meter on the same setting but put the leads on the other two wires coming out of the dist then you should get anywhere from 600-1200. I was getting 580. pretty close to good but still out.

the last test you do is just like the last one but you change the setting on your multi meter to the 20v setting. With the dist out of the car you turn the rotor by hand and you should get at least 1 volt showing on the meter. I got nothing when i did this test. Returned the dist and will have a new one on Wednesday.

while i was double checking all of my basic things on the car like ignition timing and tdc i got into a major problem. when I tried to take the #1 plug out it snapped off. It was hard to remove so i did soak it in pb but even after half a day it still snapped off. i had to go to the store and get one of those reverse thread drill bits to remove the rest of the plug stuck in the hole. It worked perfect, super easy to do which i was happy about. I ended up tackling all of the plugs and four of them snapped trying to remove them. luckily that reverse thread bit saved the day. The previous owner DID NOT put any anti seize on the threads, let that be a lesson for other people to make sure you put that on the plugs when you change them. I got them all done with new plugs in and they all have anti seize, i should be safe for awhile at least.

my dist was dead and it seems when I re stabbed it my timing was off quite a bit. I now know how to get it at 8-10 btdc when i stab it back in so hopefully my car will have a better chance to light up and give me some time to get a light on it and really set the timing

my idea of getting this running during my mini vacation was a fail. I have another week off in the end of December so hopefully it is warm enough that I want to finish it up then.

almost forgot. It looks like my summit mechanical pump is leaking oil. I cleaned it up and will recheck to make sure it isn't the power steering pump dripping on it but I am pretty sure my brand new pump is leaking. that makes two brand new parts that have been doa

90sickfox said:

Champion plugs....shame on the previous owner.

Click to expand...

uh oh.... i didn't replace them with champion plugs.... but what brands are good ones to get? I don't want to say what I got because more than likely I got the wrong brand. Working with a budget is difficult when I need to buy everything twice.