Here is a data log with every logging profile on, let me know. this was just sitting at idle
I cant even get the car to start right now. Just gonna call it a night I think. No clue. Anyone know anybody that will tune over laptop? I'm sick of itStill the same. Much lower amount of logged profiles.
One thing i've learned is that Microsquirt also doesn't seem to do idle timing correction. You are locked at 18 degrees. Try backing the timing in those cells down to 16 and see if idle quality improves a little.
Just smells soooo rich at all times even when afr is normal it smells awful, I know my afr is calibrated correctly, but damnI cant even get the car to start right now. Just gonna call it a night I think. No clue. Anyone know anybody that will tune over laptop? I'm sick of it
Well thank all of you for your help. I think im going to go the local route. Just wanna drive the car ha.I think you do need some local help or remote help. The way we are going about this just isn't going to work.
Hop on Corral.net and seek out LowRanger96 He's a tuner. Not sure if he does remote tuning but I think he does. I don't think he's on this forum
I'll give this a try tomorrow. Local tuner is in Florida for 2 weeks. So i gotta wait anyways.Changes
- After-start enrichment %: → 45→7% (was 46→26%)
- After-start cycles: → 350→25 (was 400→270)
- crankingRPM: 500 → 400
- floodClear: 75 → 70
- Removed fuel at idle one point in idle area.
Alrighty, loaded that tune file, ran wue correction while it was warming up. Idle was bouncing all over from 900-1300, once warm it would still bounce around from 700-1100. Then after that the electric fans kicked on, car died and would not start back up.I'll give this a try tomorrow. Local tuner is in Florida for 2 weeks. So i gotta wait anyways.
Thanks
Ok I think that helped out BIG time for sure. Right around target afr now.The higher the pulse width, the longer the injector stays open.
With my 47# injectors, i see about 2.5ms at idle for pulse width. I'd expect with 24's it to be about double so 4-6ms. 10 is a bit high. I see that with a light rev.
Something in the tune is commanding more fuel. What number are your idle cells at now? High 30's?
Try under general settings, changing your setting from 4 quirts to 2 squirts. I think you had 4 squirts. I run my setup on 2.
When it won;t restart when hot, does it restart with the throttle blade slightly cracked open? That could be a idle setting or too much/little cranking fuel at that specific temp region.
I hate it but once its going im sure its going to be great, but boy the headache...Ooo lawd this thread makes me never want to stray from the stock ECU ha ha. I feel your pain through the computer screen just reading along.
It instantly stalls, so I assume that i need to open it more?If you unplug the IAC with it running (fully warmed up), does it stall? Or does it maintain 1000RPM? I'm wondering if the blade is just not adjusted properly.
If you have to apply throttle to get it to restart then there is a setting for that under idle called "Idle cranking steps" or something like that. For the temp it won't restart at, you can apply more throttle opening in the tune at that temp which should get you more airflow.
I'm not on my tuning laptop now so I can't open up the tune and show screenshots or make the changes myself.
It instantly stalls, so I assume that i need to open it more?
Im going to wait to make any more changes to the tune for now until i fix that, it should run with the IAC unplugged correct?
After trying about 5 times, i cant get it to idle below 700 without stalling with the iac unplugged. So i recalibrated the tps and it still wants to idle around 1000-1100That's how mine is setup. It should maintain a very low idle with it unplugged. The IAC is just there to trim it out. Right now your are maintianing idle 100% by the IAC valve.
You can try opening it a few turns. Start engine, unplug the IAC and then walk it down a bit to a very low idle before it wants to stall out. Tune quality may play a roll in how low you get here. But go as log as you can. Shut off car, Recall TPS and restart and see if it allows you to better turn the surge out of the idle.
I do think it's a mix of the idle valve and the VE cells needing some tweaking as well.
It just doesnt want to run lower than 700-800 rpm before stalling, I'm just gonna say F it and pull the intake off and adjust the rockers. No telling what those are like. Gonna let her cool down and adjust rockers and ill be back in a few hours.That's how mine is setup. It should maintain a very low idle with it unplugged. The IAC is just there to trim it out. Right now your are maintianing idle 100% by the IAC valve.
You can try opening it a few turns. Start engine, unplug the IAC and then walk it down a bit to a very low idle before it wants to stall out. Tune quality may play a roll in how low you get here. But go as log as you can. Shut off car, Recall TPS and restart and see if it allows you to better turn the surge out of the idle.
I do think it's a mix of the idle valve and the VE cells needing some tweaking as well.
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