Progress Thread 93 Cobra basket case project, new spectra tank prepped

Ryuk · Sep 14, 2020

A few things.

The Viper was an alarm.
They sell cloth wiring harness tape that doesn't leave sticky residue like electrical tape. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-TA31/Cloth-Wiring-Harness-Tape-Adhesive
If your heater core is suspect, now's the time to check/replace it.
Plugs/connectors can be replaced easier than you might think. Determine which ones are missing and go from there.

This guy restores first gen Mustang harnesses. He might be able to source connectors for you.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 14, 2020

Tesa Tape. That's what BMW and other OEM's use. A little pricey, but it won't melt/ooze like electrical tape. I've used basic plastic loom, with Tesa tape at the ends and in a few spots in the middle. You can wrap the entire harness in it too if you'd like.

The aftermarket alarm can be removed. Considering you don't have the instructions or components, you pretty much have to. I'm in the middle of doing this to my car to remove a 90's era Viper with remote start. Pretty much just trace the wires to where they tap into the factory harness, cut/remove, and carefully tape up the nicks, or rejoin the wire if damaged. If the alarm was hacked in, then I might consider contacting the yard about a new harness due to it being damanged.

The missing connectors can probably be fixed or relocated. Just need to know which ones. Ford used the same connector in a few spots, so might be able to find a donor off the old harness you are taking out. On some of the connectors it's easy to pull the pins out and reinsert. Need to see which ones were missing for more info.

The 1993 EVTM will be gold to you. No other way to pull it off.

93FoMoCo · Sep 14, 2022

Well I got frustrated with the wiring harness trying to identify the plugs so I walked away from it.... Two years ago. Out of sight out of mind I guess. As it turns out I was trying to do it the hard way. So the other night I was out in the detached garage where the car is stored and I started looking at it. I just untangled it and it started to take shape making it easier to figure out what was what.

Then I had to remove the car alarm or remote start or whatever the hell it was. The cheap electrical tape was a dead give away of not stock lol. I also had to fix a few old repairs and a couple of plugs. Not to bad really, I used butt end crimp connectors with heat shrink ends and a ratcheting crimping tool for the repairs.

Then I used zip ties to separate the branches of the harness and went to town with the cloth harness tape removing the zip ties as I went. Next I’m going to make a list of every plug so I can check them off as they are installed. Then I’ll do a test fit in the dash and figure out where to put the retainer clips. Then I guess it gets mounted to the dash and I’ll try to get it in the car to figure out what I did wrong and fix it lol.

89notchDude · Sep 14, 2022

Just read this entire thread. Great content and pics so far. I know how you feel. I dreaded pulling the dash and messing with the wiring but once it was all back in place, I was over the hump. The harness looks good. Like someone posted before, while the dash is out, pull the heater box and check out the ac evap and heater core. Might as well change them out now.

93FoMoCo · Sep 14, 2022

89notchDude said:
Just read this entire thread. Great content and pics so far. I know how you feel. I dreaded pulling the dash and messing with the wiring but once it was all back in place, I was over the hump. The harness looks good. Like someone posted before, while the dash is out, pull the heater box and check out the ac evap and heater core. Might as well change them out now.

I’ll probably do the heater core but the thiefs ended up breaking part of the dash. So I’ll probably end up trying to find a replacement for the dash. Which will mean pulling it again but so be it I want to get it running first.

93FoMoCo · Sep 16, 2022

Only had a couple service calls at work today so I got the wiring harness mounted in the dash in a position I think will work. That actually took some messing around to figure out how to route stuff so the wires are long enough.

FedEx showed up with some parts so I threw in the ignition cylinder too. Taking a break and heading back to the garage lol.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 16, 2022

These are the fun parts of the project, at least for me.

LMR sells a kit to repair the broken tab on the dash. You might even want to consider taking the entire dash apart and spraying it with some fresh paint

93FoMoCo · Sep 16, 2022

Mustang5L5 said:
These are the fun parts of the project, at least for me.

LMR sells a kit to repair the broken tab on the dash. You might even want to consider taking the entire dash apart and spraying it with some fresh paint

The dash has a pretty good chunk broken out of it, it’s on the bottom but I’m thinking I’ll try and find a better dash after I get it running. At that time when I’m replacing the dash I’ll clean up the metal, replace the heater core and check out the HVAC blower and evaporator before it goes back in for the final time.

Mustang5L5 · Sep 16, 2022

Ouch. Damn that sucks

93FoMoCo · Sep 16, 2022

Well, I opened up my parts orders from rock auto and LMR and the ignition coil was broken where it plugs in so now I got to get ahold of them.. I did put the two screws in to mount the starter solenoid, lol hard work. Put a little Pb buster on the spark plugs because I’d like to pull them tomorrow. I also took off the radiator cap to see if there was anything there. I was happy to see it was full and the anti-freeze was still nice and green.

I haven’t worked on many cars but I’m really having fun, and I’m developing a plan of action.

bird_dog0347 · Sep 17, 2022

Very nice, good work with the wiring harness. A new dash will likely be in order, and absolutely replace the heater core before it goes in for the last time as that's not a fun job but much easier with the dash already out. One other thing to be sure you do, Drain all the gas and make sure the tank isn't full of crud and rust, new fuel filter as well. Also make sure you have the proper Cobra ECU in there as it was specific to the Cobra.

93FoMoCo · Sep 17, 2022

Thanks, I tried to use a plastic transfer pump to see what was in tank today. I didn’t get anything out so I stuck my inspection camera down there and it looked empty and nasty.

I was planning to pull the tank and take a look at it anyway. Now I know it’ll all need replaced and I’ll do that before I even try to turn it over.

93FoMoCo · Sep 17, 2022

So I broke a small plastic vacuum (?) line. I’d like to replace all four of these lines. Anyone know what to call these or should I just get something like this kit from lmr?

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-VACUUM/mustang-vacuum-line-repair-kit-1979-1993

Mustang5L5 · Sep 18, 2022

Dorman sells that line and some of those connections

Dorman 47418
Dorman 47408

I’ve also used heat shrink with adhesive to connect two broken hard vac lines together as well

bird_dog0347 · Sep 18, 2022

I expect you'll be replacing quite a few of those as they will be brittle after 30 years.

93FoMoCo · Sep 18, 2022

today a buddy stopped by with his power washer so I took the opportunity go over the car. It’s still not clean but at least it’s clean enough to work on.

I know it’s not much of a step to post about but this thread is kind of like a journal for me.

I like how it looks wet but when it drys it’s still dirty as hell but I think the paint may be able to be saved.

AeroCoupe · Sep 19, 2022

With regards to the fuel tank. I would pull it and take it to a radiator shop as they can get it super clean.
I would replace the fuel pump and the rubber hose between the fuel pump and the hard line on the pick up. Someone here will have a stock 88 l/hr pump that you can use but if not just get a 190 l/hr or 255 l/hr Walbro, Aeromotive, Holley fuel pump. Basically if you are going to upgrade the fuel pump get a good one and watch for counterfeits.
Goes without saying but new sock filter on the pump suction and a new inline filter.
Also, just bite the bullet and get a new pressure regulator (mounts on the fuel rail) as the one that is on there will most likely have a diaphragm issue being is sat so long.
Double check the fuel pump inertia switch (between the driver side rear tail light and the interior carpeted trim and make sure the red button is depressed down.
I would also suggest that you get this kit as the o-rings are most likely dried out on the injectors.
https://lmr.com/item/HDW-9593/1986-04-Mustang-Fuel-Injector-O-Ring-Pintle-Cap-Kit

That should square up the fuel system. Also, 92-93 cars have the fuel pump relay in front of the passenger strut tower across from the mass air meter.

Seeing this car just angers me to no end as I always wanted a '93 Cobra but just could not afford one and now that I can I still cannot because they are impossible to find. Please do not give up on this car as it is the cream of the crop with the Fox bodies.

93FoMoCo · Sep 19, 2022

So like I said in the OP I’m not a mechanic and haven’t don’t a ton of it but I have a buddy thats done quite a bit of repairs for himself. I’ve been thinking about how I should proceed and sometimes it helps to put it in writing and get some opinions.

-Getting it started is obviously the first step but before that can be done a few things first.

The first thing is to get the dash back in the car but I also need to replace the dash because it’s broken. I should replace the heater core because the dash is out and I still need to figure out and repair cut vacuum lines for the HVAC. There are a couple of things I need to figure out on the harness as well so I’m just going to install the dash enough to get it started.

Meaning mounting the dash, a screw in by each kick panel, the v shape mount by the steering column and the screws across the top by the windshield. I’ll only plug in what I need to start it, which I think could be just the ignition switch, clutch pedal position and I m not sure if the fuel pump wire runs under the car and is powered from the engine compartment. I’d like it easy to remove for near future replacement.

Next is drop the gas tank and take a peak inside, I’m assuming it’ll all need replaced including filter. I’ll start a post about that later.

Change the oil and filter.

Then the ignition stuff cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil. Looks like some guys spray some engine fogger oil in the spark plug holes. One guy put a cap full of Marvel Mystery Oil, what ever that is, in there as well before trying to start something that has sat for years.

It was suggested above to replace fuel injector o rings and I think that’s a good idea and will be done soon after I know it’ll run.

After its running I’ll start another list....

AeroCoupe · Sep 19, 2022

This stuff is supposed to work really well.

Kroil - Best Penetrating Oil | Kano Laboratories, LLC

Trust the best penetrating oil on the market! Choose from Kroil Original Penetrant (AeroKroil) or Kroil Penetrant with Silicone (SiliKroil).

www.kroil.com

Have you pulled the plugs and just tried to roll it over? Also, pull the valve covers and make sure everything is good to go valve wise.

93FoMoCo · Sep 28, 2022

Ran into a problem, the locking lug nut key is not in the car. Here’s a not very good picture. Any idea of where to get a key (I think that’s what it’s called).

This is a picture of the lug nut on the spare tire.

Progress Thread 93 Cobra basket case project, new spectra tank prepped

I love your drawers

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

Active Member

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Active Member

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

Active Member

still married haven't seen testicles in years

Active Member

Active Member

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell

still married haven't seen testicles in years

Active Member

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Active Member

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Active Member

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency