94/95 MAF install completed!

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04sleeper said:
Looks very good! :nice:

I like to see people just make things work.

BTW: Did you ever get that TB fixed?

Thanks!

I have the hole drilled for the vent tube, the shaft is ground down for the Mustang TPS and the new bracket is welded to the Explorer TB. I just need a 1/4" throttle ball. Holley makes one but it's $20 bucks by the time I add shipping and I was hopeing to find one cheaper.

95opal said:
the easy way is to cut the flange off the maf with a hacksaw and use your exsisting cold air kit. No seaching or fabricating the imaginary adapter. Ive don this to three different cars no problems w/ any of them.

Can you post a pic of the finished MAF?

Shakerhood said:
Does the Fox car run any better with the 94/95 Meter?

Throttle response feels like it is a little better and the engine seems to accelerate smoother. There was no SOTP increase as far as I could tell.

JBeezy53 said:
Why did you switch to the 94/95 meter?

2 reasons.

First is I'm trying to add a little color under the hood. With the Twilight Blue paint job it's like looking into a dark pit when I open the hood.

Secondly and the main reason is the 94/95 MAF is part of a "budget build" I'm doing. I also have a virtually brand-new ALCAN factory lower that I'm sending to TMoss later this Spring along with a factory upper that has been Extrude Honed for a port job, bead blasting and clear coating. I also have a new 65MM EGR adaptor and the Explorer 65MM T/B that will have the same treatment done. As part of the appearence job I have a set of factory valve covers that I have come close to getting completely polished and I will be using the same Duplicolor Metalcast Blue paint on them as I put on the MAF.

The goal here is to break into the 12s without removing a valve cover to do any work.
 
The stock Explorer linkage didn't come anywhere near fitting, so I made an adapter plate for the throttle linkage so I could use the 65 MM throttle body.

This is what I did:
Make a drawing of the position of the old throttle body linkage arm and its angular position relative to the centerline of the throttle body. Remove the ball stud off the explorer TB to make way for the adapter plate. Drill and tap a 10-32 hole in the linkage parallel to the TB shaft. Make an angle bracket out of 1" angle iron 3/8", drill a 3/16” hole in the center of each one of the legs. Then bolt it on where the hole was drilled & tapped. Then make a circular adapter plate out of 1/4" thick aluminum to bolt the two linkage arms together. Then bolt the aluminum plate to the existing linkage, and the angle bracket. Next mount the arm with the ball stud off the old throttle body on the adapter plate using the drawing to get the angle correct. You will need an aircraft type countersink for one of the bolts that secures the plate to the explorer linkage arm. It ends up being under the arm with the ball stud for the linkage. It works great and looks neat.

A trip to the welding shop with the explorer TB and the arm from your old Mustang TB would probably accomplish the same thing. I didn't have access to a welder, so I fabb'ed the plate in my shop. I took about 1.5 hours to do it, it was a measure, cut, and fit type of operation.

Also see http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ConvertingExplorer65mmTB.pdf for modifications to adapt the 65 MM Explorer TB to a Mustang
 
JBeezy53 said:
Why did you switch to the 94/95 meter?
Less air restriction, same base map equals "more HP". How much? Maybe ~3-5 HP on a stock engine. MAF's are restrictions to air flow. So are the air filter and tubes leading up to the TB. Any reduction in restriction reduces power loss - which means "more free HP". That's why on the new cars, you see big @ss MAFs and low restriction tubes. For very little money, there's no increase in smog, but and increase in HP and gas mileage. When a car company is trying to meet CAFE requirements and sell cars based on HP and gas mileage, a low restriction path to the TB is a cheap way to help get better figures.

Holdener did some real dyno test (see my sig). Not the BS dyno tests that you read in the Advertisements or the forums. Also, from posts on the forum about dyno results and track results, you can expect ~3+ HP. Is it worth it? That's a question for each person. IMHO, it's a great deal *for the price and effort*.

BTW: A new/clean air filter will often give you more than 3HP. Don't forget the basics. :) Yea, replacing the air filter is just one of the BS ways that the articles and advertisements LIE about "expected gains from this mod" and then post the dyno results to "prove it". There are also many more ways to get BS dyno results.

Opps, I still gotta put some new files on my web site. I've been busy this past week. Then, to top things off, yesterday, I spent a good part of the day replacing the duct work from my oil furnace to the chimney. One of the 90 degree ducts decided to leak. :-O A lot of work the *first time* around. Now, I could do it very quickly. Today, I'm exhausted (get it? :)).
 
Maryland Stang said:
As impressive as you think your easy find was none of those adapters will fit the MAF from a 94/95 Mustang. :notnice: The inlet is way too big for the Mustangs air filter hose and the bolt holes don't even come close to being right. Been there, tried that.

Found this on ebay... for $5 plus retarded shipping, was still under $10 and worked great. Fit right on, had to get my own bolts (found laying around). Seemed to fit /w my ebay cold air intake better too... guess because it's longer than the factory maf.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-04...spagenameZWDVW

I searched for "MAF mustang adapter", get the "v6" one as it's 3.5" and fit /w my 94/95 maf adapter I got off ebay for ~ $30-$50
 
postalbunny said:
Found this on ebay... for $5 plus retarded shipping, was still under $10 and worked great. Fit right on, had to get my own bolts (found laying around). Seemed to fit /w my ebay cold air intake better too... guess because it's longer than the factory maf.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-04...spagenameZWDVW

I searched for "MAF mustang adapter", get the "v6" one as it's 3.5" and fit /w my 94/95 maf adapter I got off ebay for ~ $30-$50
The link doesn't work when you click on it. The page cannot be found.
 
postalbunny said:
Not sure why, but the 3.5" adapter is listed as "v6" mustang.

I ordered one too.

I think they list it as V-6 because the 96 up V-6s uses the same meter housing (dimensionally at least) as the 94-95 V-8s. We're learning as we go. What I'd like to know is just what does that 3" MAF adapter that they sell fit? They have it listed for Ford V-8s but it doesn't even come close.

This thread should be stickied. It gets a lot of views and referrals.
 
89lxcoupe said:
i bought a explorer intake and throttle body and mine bolted directly on with no modifications to the throttle body and i had the breather tube ? maybe mine was a different year.....

I never found one that didn't need the throttle crank changed and the TPS changed or rewired - maybe you got an FRPP 65mm throttle body with the intake.
 
nope don't think so it came off of the explorer can't remember the year though then straight on my car after porting, i have a 70 mm housing off a 95 gt if anybody is interested just put your sensor on it ! how much you give me.....
 
89lxcoupe said:
i have a 70 mm housing off a 95 gt if anybody is interested just put your sensor on it ! how much you give me.....

You need to put the sensor from a 94/95 in that housing. Using the sensor from a stock MAF will get you the same results as boring out the stock MAF. You will have more air going into the engine then the MAF is telling the computer is going in.
 
well if thats the case then why can you use the 94-95 sensors on the fox c&l meter if you don't have a 89-93 ! the meter has a section that controls the metered air, the sensor its self doesn't. i had it on my car with the stock 90 sensor and it worked great, i went to a 76 c&l is the reason i don't need it any more !