95 Stang GT nitrous

This is my very first thread,,,

Just rebuilt my 95 302, listed below what is on it
-Prospeed forged pistons
-Prospeed Forged valves
-Prospeed HV oil pump
-RPM Forged I-Beam connecting rods
-Ford Racing GT-40 aluminum c-heads 64cc
-Comp Cams Hydraulic roller cam kit
-Comp Cams mechanical rocker arms
-Comp cams pushrods
-BBK 75mm TB
-BBk HF Fuel pump
-BBK aluminum pulleys
-Holly systemax II intake manifold
-3.73" gears
-B&M shifter
-24# injectors
comp. ratio is 10.5:1

ok, this is not a daily driven car.

recently i ordered bigshot nitrous system, but the guy told me i cant go anymore than 200hp on a stock block!! anyone who is going more than 200hp on a stock block??

is it possible getting the same output of big shot system by using ordinary 2 fogger system? like changing the solinoids and jets in a normal system

also i need to buy a MSD, do i need digital-6 or 6AL is enough?

need to get rid of weight so i removed AC,, anyone have any idea what is fat and heavy and worth getting rid of it?

Thanx a bunch
 
Rule of thumb says the stock block can't handle more then 500HP. There are always exceptions either way. You're probably putting down around 300 with that combo, so a 200 shot would put you into the 500 range. Which is dangerous.

First thing that I notice is that you're going to need bigger injectors. Probably 36 pounders or maybe even 42s. Which will mean that you now need a new MAF or a new MAF cal for that size. You can't put 500 HP through 24 pounders, you'll have awful detonation problems.

Upgraded ignition is pretty much a must for a power adder car. The 6AL seems to be the gold standard.

So I would agree with "the guy."

Adam
 
im pretty screwd now :)

just recieved my 24lb recalibrated MAF ,,

is there any other option than upgrading to 42s injectors????

my car is running perfect without the recalibrated MAF, do u guys thing that it would be "better" with the new MAF??
my big mistake was that i just thought of building a LS1 killer , with not experience background at all in 302s,, still able to kill modded LS1s ...

i'm pretty sure u guyz will help me to complete this project

94tang, can u plz tell me what is h/c/i??

any ideas regarding reducing weight???

thanx
 
first off the big shot and fogger are wet kits...they do not require the larger inj. due to the fact the fuel is added at the n2o nozzle/plate (if I recall the big shot is a platet that goes between the upper and lower). You will need a bigger fuel pump for preaty much anything over a 125 shot.

FWIW- the fogger nozzle from N.O.S. realy will not flow past 175hp, and the opening of the nozzle is about the same size as the 150 jets if that tells you anything.

You would prob. have to setup a 2stage n2o setup to get the 200-250 and would prob. be better off that way to help with launching.

As far as the MSD I would sug. the MSD digital6+, it has a feature that when the 12v source it turned on it will pull timing so N/A you can run more timing.
 
yes what i'm planning to install is a wet kit,,,

im running on BBK inline fuel pump 310+ pph

im still not sure to get the big shot system (yes, its the plate that goes between the upper and lower intake manifold),, or get an ordinary NOS with to foggers and set each fogger 4 120hp , dunno if it'll work (ofcourse im getting bigger fuel and N2O solinoids) any difference in flow between these kits?? and where is the best place to place the foggers??

the other day,, i read on carcraft that they ran 200+ nitrous on a junkyard 302block, do u guys think that if they can do it,, i can do it as well??

any comments?????
 

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snake_bite said:
yes what i'm planning to install is a wet kit,,,

im running on BBK inline fuel pump 310+ pph

im still not sure to get the big shot system (yes, its the plate that goes between the upper and lower intake manifold),, or get an ordinary NOS with to foggers and set each fogger 4 120hp , dunno if it'll work (ofcourse im getting bigger fuel and N2O solinoids) any difference in flow between these kits?? and where is the best place to place the foggers??

the other day,, i read on carcraft that they ran 200+ nitrous on a junkyard 302block, do u guys think that if they can do it,, i can do it as well??

any comments?????

The only thing I see with the two dry nozzles is that will the regulator supply the necessary amount of fuel. I would go ahead and get the plate kit just to be safer.
 
blksn955.o said:
first off the big shot and fogger are wet kits...they do not require the larger inj. due to the fact the fuel is added at the n2o nozzle/plate (if I recall the big shot is a platet that goes between the upper and lower). You will need a bigger fuel pump for preaty much anything over a 125 shot.

FWIW- the fogger nozzle from N.O.S. realy will not flow past 175hp, and the opening of the nozzle is about the same size as the 150 jets if that tells you anything.

You would prob. have to setup a 2stage n2o setup to get the 200-250 and would prob. be better off that way to help with launching.

As far as the MSD I would sug. the MSD digital6+, it has a feature that when the 12v source it turned on it will pull timing so N/A you can run more timing.

Oh man, I just got :owned:

So while I already look dumb, how does the wet kit work? Does the wet kit just add N2O to the fuel according to the Throttle Position Sensor? I guess what I'm asking is how does the computer get the information to adjust the air/fuel/N2O mixture?

- rookie
 
:flag: The no2 and the fuel is atomized in the plate.. You might need a booster pump like a T-rex or NOS. As far as running 200 shot no problem with that system just keep in mind that a good tune is a must or you might suffer detonation and crack.But it is fine for what you are doing I cannot stress enough the importance of proper fuel and tune.....:nice:
 
lol didnt mean to :owned: you :D

A wet kit basicly is 1 nozzle that has 2 lines hooked up to it. One is from the bottle to the n2o noid...to the nozzle/plate. The second line is from either a sep. fuel setup or off the scrader(sp?) valve on the fuel rail to the fuel noid...to the nozzle.

With n2o the throt. is with in most cases a micro switch that set to "go off" when the throt is at WOT, some kits have a plug in that goes between the tps and are ref. to what volt. is WOT. I think Zex uses this also my buddy has a N.O.S. wet kit for a 99+ mustang (not the nozzle kit) that has this TPS setup.

I would vote a plate setup myself. With wanting to spray 200+ total that is ALOT of fuel and you are going to run a risk of fuel drop off/puddleing/fall off/whatever you want to call it. The GREAT thing about the plate is it is lower in the intake track than the major turns of the upper intake.

Also the nozzle I was ref. to is just one kind of nozzle for sale even with N.O.S. there are a few and some of them have larger openings so if you for some reason do go with a single nozzle or two nozzles call N.O.S. and make sure the nozzle is the propper one you want.
 
yobi1kanobi said:
:flag: The no2 and the fuel is atomized in the plate.. You might need a booster pump like a T-rex or NOS. As far as running 200 shot no problem with that system just keep in mind that a good tune is a must or you might suffer detonation and crack.But it is fine for what you are doing I cannot stress enough the importance of proper fuel and tune.....:nice:

I was talking to a guy who did R&D for N.O.S. and he was saying how at the 175+ size tuning can get funky if you want it to last.
 
also about the weight... if you remove egr and smog plumbing = ~20-25lbs...if you get it all out. Instead of a pulley for the smog removal i ran a shorter belt.
Back seats can come out and put in a rear seat delete.
get rid of the spare.
Relocate ur batt to the trunk.
if you wanna get real in depth you can start pulling insulation from the rear quarters and trunk.
alum. driveshaft =$300
get rid of sway bars or kbrace
 
snake_bite said:
im pretty screwd now :)


94tang, can u plz tell me what is h/c/i??

any ideas regarding reducing weight???

thanx

Hes running Holley,Lunati cammEdelbrock Performer intake.....oh yeah forgot to mention it is wet shot.....he uses the plate that goes in between the upper and lower intake
 
thanx all

already goining to get rid of all seats replace them with fake recaro or sparco(does it sound r*ce?) (look exactly like real ones even badges but costs something like $180 for both (we get them from thailand).also, im replacing the hood with a light fibre glass hood, getting rid of all bars in the doors.

hope it sounds helpful
 
well our hoods are already a abs plastic or fiberglass stock so a diff. hood will prob. not do a whole lot as far as weight goes.

If your going to remove the smog...GET A TUNE. The timing tables are nuts for the smog and with our year cars people often run into a ping issue if you remove the smog and do not turn off the smog stuff in the eec. It is more of a issue at non-WOT as egr is off at WOT anyway but pinging is not good at anyplace on the rpm band.
 
hello

our stock stangs comes without smog from the dealer,

do u think if get rid of stock seats i will get rid of lots of weight??

in term of value,, is it worthy to go 4 digital6 or digital7 instead of 6AL??

another Q: im on flowtech headers,xpipe and mufflers, but all pipes are stock, is it a big difference if i change them with 3"???
 
Another point to note about wet kits....lots of people go with dry kits cuz if you inject wet at the TB you have a chance of puddling fuel in the upper intake and causing a mean backfire,etc. EFI intakes arent meant to carry air and fuel (since its injected at the lower intake) like the old carb intakes and so there not designed to keep fuel from puddling in them. The plate kits between the upper/lower eliminate that problem alltogether since the fuel and n2o is injected after the upper intake.