A Arms and springs

[Gearhead92]

Soo I just started working on cars within the past 5 years and I just came to my first screw up with my '88 LX.

So I had a bad ball joint for a good while, and got around to try to replace it. I had read that when a ball joint goes bad, you need new front control arms, or the A arms. But I went ahead and tried to press the bad on out and press a new one in.

Well that made the whole bigger, which then didn't allow the new ball joint to press in. So it looked liked I had no other choice than to buy new A arms. So I purchased a pair of replacement A arms from latemodelrestoration and tried to install them.Yes, they are the right control arms, the 87-93 replacement arms, with the spring cups and swap bar mount etc etc.

I also have new Eibach lowering spring I was going to put in at the same time. Turns out when I took the old A arm off, the spring that was in there had actually broken/snapped off 1.5 turns from the bottom of the spring, good thing I am replacing them.

The issue I found was the spring compressor I rented from Advanced Auto Parts doesn't work...the threaded rod hits the top of the upper spring cup before I am able to compress the spring. The spring compressor has a threaded rod and the two pieces that go on the threaded rod, each with two hooks on it. It was a pain in the ass, and I couldn't get it to work. So I tried just using a floor jack to compress the spring enough to put the bolts to the K member through...I couldn't get that to work because the front springs have that slight bend.

So at this point, my daily driver is sitting in my driveway, with its left front A arm off, hoping I can figure out a way to get it on.

If I had a spring compressor I could get to work, I don't think I would have had much of a problem. I just couldn't figure out a way to get it to not hit the top of the upper spring cup.

So here is a noob asking for any advice, tips, or help.
I guess this is just the that happens when you work on cars.

 

[mikestang63]

An easy way to install the front spring is to compress the springs off the car with the tool and then when they are compressed wrap up the spring with some bailing or chicken wire to keep it compressed. Then simply slide the compressed spring onto the new A arm on the isolator if you are using one and in the proper space on the A arm perch. Bolt everything up- ball joint to A arm- tied rod- struts etc but don't tighten up the A arms yet . Put the jack under the A arm to keep the spring fully compressed. then cut the bailing wire and the spring will be held in place by the jack and the A arm. Then simply lower the jack and tighten all the bolts up. Grease up the tie rod and ball joints. Chances are you will need an alignment as you changed parts and lowered the suspension.

Are you using stock rubber bushing or poly? I usually put some white lithium grease on the stock bushings and you must use the proper poly grease on poly bushings to avoid squeaking.

That being said, lowering springs should be easier to install vs stock springs as they are not as tall.

 

[84Ttop]

When I do front springs, I remove the two a arm bolts in the k member and lower the back down with a jack.. Reverse the process to install, use a short pry bay to line up the control arm bolts nd you're done. Good luck

 

[Shakerhood]

I use the correct style spring compressor, it was on the pricey side but well worth it.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I have a different method. ....

First, I start with scratching my head (this always helps) and asking myself why in gods name I'm doing this again.

Next, I start undoing random bolts...this usually does nothing to accomplish my goal, but it gives me a sense of purpose.

Next, I find the biggest pry bar I can find, then I swear, I sweat, I bleed, damaging everything around the spring until I force them in.

Not only am I getting the springs in, but I'm able to distress, get a chance to try out new curse words in a sentence and get a great workout in at the same time.

Good luck.

 

[02 281 GT]

I have a different method. ....

First, I start with scratching my head (this always helps) and asking myself why in gods name I'm doing this again.

Next, I start undoing random bolts...this usually does nothing to accomplish my goal, but it gives me a sense of purpose.

Next, I find the biggest pry bar I can find, then I swear, I sweat, I bleed, damaging everything around the spring until I force them in.

Not only am I getting the springs in, but I'm able to distress, get a chance to try out new curse words in a sentence and get a great workout in at the same time.

Good luck.

I do something similar. I always unbolt everything from the spindle-side of the A-arm so that it can hang as low as possible while still attached to the k-member. I then use a very long (about three feet or more) crow bar to dislodge the old spring. I then spray some WD40 on the empty perch and set the new spring in as far as I can get it by hand. I then use the crow bar to force it into the spring perch using the most outboard portion of it for leverage. The WD40 is only there so that the rubber isolators don't stick and become deformed while forcing the spring into the perch. Works every time, even when installing stock springs (now THAT'S a workout).

 

[84Ttop]

I think you guys are working too hard, lmao.. My method is tried and true and no cursing needed. I can swap front springs in less than 30 minutes once the car is on jack stands. The only exception to this is moroso trick springs which involve cursing blood and the like mentioned above.

 

[madspeed]

Ive always used the same method as 84 tTop, but now that ive got coilovers, no need for it

 

[2000xp8]

It's simple.
Knock outer tie rod off (by hitting side of spindle NOT the bolt).
Remove strut to spindle bolts.
Remove old spring
Force new spring in, it will be mostly straight.
Then jack it back up
Put strut and tie rod bolts back in.

I've done it at least 20 times at this point.

Ttop is right, once you get the hang of it, you can literally do both sides in no time.

Spring compressors are a waste of time and tying the spring closed is just plain old dangerous.

 

[Gearhead92]

I have been doing a combination of the first few methods posted....a lot of cussing, sweat, and blood.

Are you using stock rubber bushing or poly?

I oredered the polys but they haven't gotten here so I've had to move ahead and use the stop isolator for the top, and I went and bought rubber hose that fit around the bottom of the spring. pretty much the same thing that I spent 20 bucks on.

To my next questions:

Unfortunately I am also replacing the A arm, which make this an even worse process.

I purchased these:
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...d-Steel-Tubular-Control-Arms-With-Spring-Cups

From my knowledge, those will work as stock replacements for my A arms.

I received the arms that are seen in the third picture from the above link. The pic where the swap bar bolt hole is on the inside of the A arm, not the outside as seen in picture 1.

If I had gotten the arms in picture 1, I believe I wouldn't be asking my next questions.

In the pictures below, the Sway bar bolt is quite "bent". It was a pain in the ass to get it to all fit.

So:

1.) Does that look right?

Whoever owned this car previously had put the sway bar bolts in up side down, as the bolt was dropped down through and not put up through.
I tried to get the bolt out but the sleeve and bolt have rusted together, and I got no where, even with copious amounts of WD40.

2.) Does that bolt orientation really matter?

3.) If the sway bar bolt isn't meant to be that stressed, do I need different arms? New sway bar? Or what are my options?

 

[MFE92]

The bolt is supposed to come down from the top, not up from the bottom. And no, it's not supposed to be angled like that. I'm not sure the other arms locate the hole any differently in relation to the balljoint, but it's worth asking LMR or AJE.

Not to rub salt in the wound, but $399? For a few lattes more you could have gotten a world-class set of coilovers and c/c plates and not had to around with fits-if-you-squint A-arms.

 

[Sharad]

I also do the springs by disconnecting the strut from the strut tower and the swaybar. With lowering springs, nothing else *needs* to be disconnected and I can do both sides in less than an hour with hand tools and jackstands.

 

[Gearhead92]

The bolt is supposed to come down from the top, not up from the bottom. And no, it's not supposed to be angled like that. I'm not sure the other arms locate the hole any differently in relation to the balljoint, but it's worth asking LMR or AJE.

Not to rub salt in the wound, but $399? For a few lattes more you could have gotten a world-class set of coilovers and c/c plates and not had to **** around with fits-if-you-squint A-arms.

Well what would you suggest for coilovers, CC plates, and A arms?

 

[2000xp8]

Well what would you suggest for coilovers, CC plates, and A arms?

Ford racing stock replacement A arms, which come with bushings and ball joints.
Maximum motorsports coil overs and CC plates.
You will never have any regrets buying high quality from the get go, yup you will spend a few more bucks, but the peace of mind is worth it.

AJE makes garbage and they don't stand behind the garbage they make.
I know from experience.
I wouldn't use another one of their products if i was given it for free.
Send those arms back.

 

[Gearhead92]

Ford racing stock replacement A arms, which come with bushings and ball joints.
Maximum motorsports coil overs and CC plates.
You will never have any regrets buying high quality from the get go, yup you will spend a few more bucks, but the peace of mind is worth it.

AJE makes garbage and they don't stand behind the garbage they make.
I know from experience.
I wouldn't use another one of their products if i was given it for free.
Send those arms back.

Where can I find the Ford Racing replacements? I haven't been able to find much of anything unless I'm going for coil overs

 

[2000xp8]

Where can I find the Ford Racing replacements? I haven't been able to find much of anything unless I'm going for coil overs

Maybe they don't make them anymore?
Not sure.

But MM has their set, and according to the description they fit a stock K.
http://www.wmsracing.com/wmsweb/MMF...front-control-arms-79-93-Mustang-std-ure.html

Just make sure to get the ones that don't move the wheels forward.
Be a nice stepping stone too in case you want an MM k member in the future.

 

[mikestang63]

Ford racing stock replacement A arms, which come with bushings and ball joints.
Maximum motorsports coil overs and CC plates.
You will never have any regrets buying high quality from the get go, yup you will spend a few more bucks, but the peace of mind is worth it.

AJE makes garbage and they don't stand behind the garbage they make.
I know from experience.
I wouldn't use another one of their products if i was given it for free.
Send those arms back.

I think Ford stopped making those back in 2011. M-3075-A They were great as they had better ball joints and were cheap.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-front-controlarms-7993.html

MM and others sell the SN 95 ones that have the better bushings and ball joints still , but I think you need to get longer tie rod ends or a bumpsteer kit when putting these on a fox? And they are NOT cheap, like over $400 a set. Like MFE said, that is almost the price for a set of coil overs.

I second MM parts. Buy them once and don't look back. Are your stock A arms totally fubared or could you bring them to a shop and have them press in new ball joints and be done with it. Just throwing this out there, but does anyone make sleeves for fox body A arms where he could reuse his old arms. I would say get the X2 ball joints but they dont work on a 4 lug spindle.

Not to totally bum you out, but I have read many complaints about the quality and fitment of AJE components. Problem is you installed them and I doubt they will take them back.

 

[Gearhead92]

So I'm like half freakin out. This is my daily driver, and I'm in a big bind to get this back on the road. I have absolutely no idea what to do. haha......this is pathetic.

I can send these AJEs back, I have all the info to do so, with no issues from LateModelRestoration.

BUT

I can get these arms to fit according to LatemodelRestoration and AJE, if I put the car on the ground first before installing the sway bar bolt......That isn't how I was told by others or what my chilton's suggested, but after all, these are aftermarket.

In any case, I'd go ahead and buy a new sway bar, so I'd be purchasing new struts, sway bar, and CC plates. I can't find any other A Arms that have a spring cup, unless I get the bolt on ones...I don't like that idea too much. Plus I already have these.

I've been looking at these:
CC Plates: http://www.cjponyparts.com/maximum-motorsports-caster-camber-plates-black-1979-1989/p/CCP31/ $199.95, same price as AmericanMuscle, and $10 cheaper than latemodel
Struts: http://www.uprproducts.com/strange-mustang-adjustable-strut-87.html
I'm pretty set on those parts. I've heard good things about the Struts. My buddy ran them on his '03 Cobra.

Sway bars:
Either I go with MM and get http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/MM-MMFSB1/79-93-Mustang-Maximum-Motorsport-Front-Swaybar
Then get the STEEDA Rear adjustable sway bar later (http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/ST-006470/79-04-Mustang-Steeda-Rear-Adjustable-Swaybar)
OR just get this now....(below) So Either spend 300 and save $70 on the Eibach kit, or go MM and Steeda and save $10 buck on the Eibach kit
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...tang-Eibach-Anti-Roll-Kit-Front-Rear-Sway-Bar

The more I think about it the more I like the MM route.

If not that, then I need to do some more searching to find other A Arms. I've decided to not go coil overs, because it is a daily driver, and I've heard coil overs clunk. Plus I already have springs.

 

[2000xp8]

I use MM coil overs, don't really notice any clunking.

I wouldn't buy sway bars, nor would i mess with the mounting location.

At this point, you may want to start looking in junkyards for control arms if you want spring perches.

 

[Gearhead92]

Yeah, I'm not gonna mess with the mounting location after doing a bit of research and talking with a couple people. But the sway bar in my car is old any how, and needs new bushings etc etc, so if I am re-doing almost my entire front suspension, I don't see why an extra $200 would hurt if I can swing it. Plus I can't get the sway bar bolts out of my old sway bar. So rather than cutting it, I'd rather put something new in.