A/C finally works, now my car heats up.

I'm pretty sure it's the raidator and after some researching on here, I've decided to bust out the bucks and get the fluidyne. No hassle install. But another question, how do I wire my fan to come on with the ignition at the high setting? I'll also be getting the 180* t-stat, just in case.

Thanks
 
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To turn on low speed, apply fused 12 volts to Pin 14 on the CCRM.

To turn on high speed, apply ground to Pin 17 on the CCRM.

I'll simply say that if you want an awesome forget-about-it fan controller, see DcControl.com. The unit is golden.

Good luck.
 
95Vert said:
Yeah, it's golden but expensive. I'll just ground Pin 17 on the ccrm.

Do I just run a wire from that pin to the frame?
You can do this but I prefer to put in a switch instead. Having the fan run when the t-stat is closed doesnt help and since our fans high-speed is known to have issues....................

You can toss a switch panel in your ashtray real easy (I had switches for low and high).

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For high speed: run a wire from ground (a shiny bolt in the interior) to a switch's power terminal. Then run a wire from the 'accessory' terminal on the switch to Pin 17.



Good luck.
 
Ok, then I'd use my meter to make sure that the tapping held. I had some issues with 3M scotchlock connectors piercing the wiring at the CCRM. Perhaps you have a bad crimp.

Otherwise, does high speed work on its own (like when the AC is on MAX)? If so, then the HEDF should be working and we'd need to do more testing.

Good luck.
 
it is very possible that the crimp didn't hold or is making bad contact. to clarify how i wired it:

pin 17 tap --> top terminal on switch
ground --> bottom terminal on switch
switch *on* = pin 17 tap --> ground
 
IDK, if it comes on with the AC on Max. Since I swapped out to the a9l, the low speed comes on as soon as I put the key on. We peeled the wire, then crimped it, so the crimp should be on pretty good. What about the 2nd post in this thread?
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=533159&page=2
The problem is that since my LOW is coming on automatically, would that trigger a 'medium' setting since both would be on, like CManT said? And what do I need to do to fix it?
 
95Vert said:
IDK, if it comes on with the AC on Max. Since I swapped out to the a9l, the low speed comes on as soon as I put the key on. We peeled the wire, then crimped it, so the crimp should be on pretty good. What about the 2nd post in this thread?
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=533159&page=2
The problem is that since my LOW is coming on automatically, would that trigger a 'medium' setting since both would be on, like CManT said? And what do I need to do to fix it?
Uggh, you have the fox puter installed already. Did the kit come with a fan controller? There are a *select few* A9Ls that can actually trigger a cooling fan with the ECT alone. Most of the time one needs a stand-alone controller.

On a T4 puter, if your ECT circuit was open, low speed would come on by itself (as a safeguard. The computer actually needs to be active to shut-off low speed. That's why there is an EDF relay control). But since you did the PIH swap and I have no experience with that, I'll bow out except for specific questions about one or the other computer system (I'm pretty conversant with the ECT and fan pathways for both individually).

FWIW, Chris talked to me before doing his fan switch stuff. :p Please note (not you Nacho, but everyone) that the info about using a 3 way switch in his post is wrong. You cant do that since low and high speed use different polarities (ground for high and 12 volts for low).

You are correct - if you engage high and low speed simultaneously, the fan runs a little faster than low speed RPM's, but it has a large electrical draw - dont let that happen.

Ok, for a solution:
if your low speed comes on now and you're happy with it except instead of it being low speed on, you'd wish it was high speed you could try: Just remove the fan connector and rewire it so that the low speed fan harness terminal goes to the high speed fan terminal (instead of low). I actually considered this for a one-week fix while waitin for my controller but never did it. So try it at your own risk.

You very well might want to run stand alone relays and even a stand alone fan controller. This was the point I reached, and after I considered the price to do relays and a controller decently, I thought it much better money spent to use a Dc Controller. You could literally just use two relays and two switches and probably wire it up for 20 bucks or so.

Good luck.

Good luck.
 
95Vert said:
Do you know which wire is the Low and High that go into the fan. I've got a buddy who's going to wire it with a relay, but just cutting and switchin 2 wires around seem easier. Well since it's not the black one, that leaves the other 2. I'll try that before relaying them.
At the fan, low is the middle. IIRC, high is the bottom-most terminal, and ground is on top.

If you get 'em backwards, it's no biggie - the fan will just spin backwards. I'm pretty sure what I posted above is correct though.