Have a set of welds and MT Streets for the track and your regular rims for every day driving, thats what Im going to be doing now
Advise on running MT ET Streets for the first time.
- Thread starter Venom351R
- Start date
Have a set of welds and MT Streets for the track and your regular rims for every day driving, thats what Im going to be doing now
stprorolla49
Active Member
Yea, cause I'm spending nearly $30 to dismount the dr's and mount the street tires for the school year, then spend another $30 to have them remounted for the summer when I'm home to race. Its getting ridiculous, I think I'm gonna sell both sets of Nittos I have, and put that towards some lighter wheels, and tires with more sidewall.
For the rear, would a 15x8 weld Prostar with a 5.5" backspace and a 275/50/15 ET Street be a good combo? Do I really need a 10" wide wheel? 295 ET Street?
SublimeRT
Member
That'll work just fine. A 275/50 is plenty of tire for you right now looking at your mods in your sig. Check out Centerline Telstars, too. They are good looking wheels and cheaper than Prostars by a little bit and not as common and available in 15x8 with 5.5" BS. I've had both in the past and liked my Telstars better.
Edit: Disregard that comment about the Telstars. Holy crap! Apparently prices have changed. I just checked some old notes and I bought 2 15x4s and 2 15x8s for $515 from Jegs in the summer of '04. I just priced the same thing at Jegs and it was $1023.96. They used to be cheaper. Pretty sure they used to be available in 5.5" BS too, but not anymore. They have them in 5" which should still work just fine. On my old '04 Cobra I had 15x8 Telstars with 4.5" backspacing with a 275/50-15 and the fit perfect, didn't rub, or stick out. I used them with the IRS and the solid axle I later put in. No probs. with either.
stprorolla49
Active Member
Thanks for the research man, I appreciate it. Actually, I really dislike the look of the Telestars for some reason...i think its the recess where the lugs go, lol. As a design major, I'm picky about that ****. Anyway, I've got plenty of time before the summer when I'm gonna need them, so I'm gonna keep a lookout for some used ones, hopefully I can get a pair for the back for $200 or so, maybe find some used ET Streets as well. I don't really use them enough to make it worth the money for new ones, maybe 6-8 times a year.
Thats what Im running on mine, 15X8 weld and 275/50/15 ET Streets. Need to buy different lug nuts as well.
stprorolla49
Active Member
Yea, my dad has Prostars on his Nova and on his Chevelle and he had to get the ones with the extended shank, and open end for both cars. I think in the long run its probably a wise idea to sell the DR's I have and get the ET Streets.
If you want to do the track enough then its a good move. I will never again go to the track again with Nitto's. I had a strong feeling I would think this way and I do after just running the MT ET streets 4 times at the track. To be able to dump the clutch at 3,500 RPM's and it just GRABS!!!!!! and no spin is just un believable. I had a hard time shifting into second b/c I was planted in my seat so hard.
stprorolla49
Active Member
I think this also probably means I should start saving for a new diff, and 31 spline axles
How long of a burnout do you do on these tires?My very first run on them I did about a 5 second burn out or until I started to see smoke. They dont need as long of a burn as the Nitto's did. My first 60' time with them was 1.808 so close to a 1.7
I just got the FMS 31 spline limited slip out of Summit, it was around $250 and I got the Moser 31 splines from Mustangs Unlimited. Do you plan on getting some weld rims as well or just running them on your current wheels?
I just got the FMS 31 spline limited slip out of Summit, it was around $250 and I got the Moser 31 splines from Mustangs Unlimited. Do you plan on getting some weld rims as well or just running them on your current wheels?
stprorolla49
Active Member
Well, I have to put on regular street tires on my street wheels during the school year so I'm not putting miles on the DR's, and because I don't need them. I have 2 sets of 315/35/17 Nitto's that I got with the wheels. Both sets have about 60-70% left on them, so I'm thinking of selling them both, and putting that money towards a set of Welds and ET streets. If I keep swapping tires back and forth on the wheels I have now, I'll eventually spend more money in mounting fees than a freakin new set of wheels.
Things I've notice about my ET Street Radials 255/60/15's on 15x7 V6 wheels....
You don't need low tire pressure to make them hook : Ran mine at 25lbs for every run and they never broke loose once.
These tires are ULTRA sticky as is. You don't need long smokey burn outs to make them stick. I roll em through the water, light em up for 3-4 seconds, then drive out of it. I barely even see any smoke : Dead hook every single time....consistent mid-1.8 60ft times, every time!
Nitto's and BFG's just can't compare!
You don't need low tire pressure to make them hook : Ran mine at 25lbs for every run and they never broke loose once.
These tires are ULTRA sticky as is. You don't need long smokey burn outs to make them stick. I roll em through the water, light em up for 3-4 seconds, then drive out of it. I barely even see any smoke : Dead hook every single time....consistent mid-1.8 60ft times, every time!
Nitto's and BFG's just can't compare!
I heard the BFG's were really godo and I almost went with them but the MT got such rave reviews from everyone that has had them I couldnt pass it up.
I ran my tire pressure at 14PSI and they dead hooked at 3,500 RPM's
From what I've been led to understand by their owners, the BFG's hook really well, but tire wear seems to be an issue. Although judging by the tread compound of the ET Street Radials, I can't see how you'd get many miles out of them either.
What really kills drag radials (or any tire for that matter) are dry burn outs. The ET Street Radial utilizes the same race compound outer layer used on the ET Drags. They don't hook any better getting them super hot when burning them on dry pavement than they would coming out of the water box, so why bother? They'll still stick like gangbusters if you burn them out dry, but the added heat and friction cuts their life span dramatically!
Curious Redline, have you tried running them at the track with more air pressure in them, or have you only run them at lower pressures because it seems to be the popular consensus amongst the guys running at your track? The ET Street Radials, like all drag radials still utilize a solid radial case, so lower tire pressures really don't help much since you won't achieve the “wrinkle effect” like you would a true bias ply. I personally run the tire with the most air in them possible while still being able to hook. The first reason of course being safety! A tire with more air in it is less likely to "walk around" in the rim when compared to one that's under inflated and as a result will be more stable at higher speeds. The second reason being that more air in the tire will decrease rolling resistance, thus eat up less horsepower while running down the track. Horsepower that will be more useful being put to the pavement, rather than being absorbed by it.
I only did 4 passes at the track that night(first time I ran them), after the 1.8 60' I was not about to mess around with the pressure much for that night. When I go back I'll try different PSI's and see what that gets me. Micky Thompson reccomends 14-18 PSI
Im running a 26x11.50 et street on the street and at the track i leave at 4500 rpm and my 60 ft times are 1.50-1.60 range and im running a 175 shoot of n02 on stock suspention the car runs 11.20-11.30 have no probles with tires if you have a race on the highway you have no proble with traction
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