Highbredcloud said:I agree with what you say...,however, why don't you consider the AFR 165's to be a contender? The flow nearly the same as TW's...and are 5cc smaller instead of the 185's being 15cc bigger...besides isn't the 185 head the same as the 165...but with a bigger intake vavle?
Highbredcloud said:Mike...I base my decisions on real world experience...the theory follows the experience...For instance...to generate higher velocity with a bigger head you will need to spin the moter higher to achieve the same result as with a smaller head...Common solution to this is simply getting a numerically bigger rear end gear...in this case 5cc really doesn't make a difference but you get my point...,however, AFR's having a smaller intake valve and a 5cc smaller overall my infact pick up more power 200RPMs sooner than a TW head...That's why AFR's seem to have a better under the curve results and not just peak HP...This has to accompany with the rest of the combo as well...
As far as you racing your friend on the street...and being neck and neck...Well I race my friend with a Summit TrickFlow Street heat kit against my GT-40X, GT-40 intake setup and we were neck and neck...in the same type of car...so does that mean that GT-40X heads are just as good as the TW's?
Slow5.0 said:Bad part on TW heads are valve springs
airflowresearch.com said:Note:
Hydraulic roller cams typically experience valve float at 5800-6000 rpm because of their fast ramp rates. AFR suggests you upgrade your springs to AFR part #8032, 1.530 O.D. with higher spring pressures to reduce chances of valve float associated with rpm’s 6000 or higher.
Grn92LX said:Hey, well at least we can disagree like men, right? Honestly, I have yet to see this better under the curve that the afr 165's supposidly have. Like I said for chits n giggles you could compare my dyno sheet (I HATE racing dyno's but just for the heck of it) to other afr/fti dyno sheet's and I garantee I make very similar (whether more or less) sub 3000rpm power. Maybe when I get my PMS i'll dyno my car for the hell of it. With a 16-18:1 a/f in the low-mid range I still had 300 ft/lbs by 3000rpm. I've made some changes/fixes since and i'll be adding a PMS. I hope have it by next week. With your typical street combo, BOTH will make practically identicle numbers. Your obviously very pro AFR. Have you decided on a combo yet? I still say use the RPM intake and a 75mm TB for your set up
bluevenom867 said:AFR heads need a spring up grade for cams over .550 lift to, so you can't really say it not a common problem.I wonder if the Edelbrock performer rpm heads have the same problem?
bluevenom867 said:By the way, Slow5.0, my TFS Track Heat heads have no problem at 6800rpm's on my hydraulic roller 357 (.030 over 351W).
I'm looking at doing a cam swap down the road and might look for +7000rpm's with the track heat springs.
Highbredcloud said:LOL...I guess you're right...we can disagree like men...I guess that's what makes the Mustang modding so unique...so many different combinations but which one is the perfect one?You and me obviously have a different way of doing things...I honestly think that you center your mods more around the track...where as I rarely go to the track and center the mods more around the street...two different ways on modding the cars...
PMS will definately help you out...it's an expensive way of doing things but nevertheless it is the right way of doing things...Don't think that by any means I am criticizing what you say...I'm not...It's obvious to me that you are partial to TrickFlow...which is cool...as I am partial to FORD RACING parts...not SO much AFR...but I do give credit where credit is due...
ONCE I get things figured out I will definately get the car dynoed...AND you can bet that I will share my results with Stangnet...As of now I am keeping the Cobra with Tmoss ported lower...I have confidence in Tom's work and the research he has done from the sources he provided...BTW: I am using a 65mm TB to maintain velocity at low RPM's......it's a street car.
Not valve float, spring bind because of big cams with fast ramp rates.
Grn92LX said:There is no perfect way. I center my idea's around what I know will make good power. Our local track closed down for good which blowsNow I don't really have much of a chance to race anymore unless its on the street with friends. I wish I would have known back then what I know now. I would have bought some bigger parts. I would have used a bigger cam right off the bat, bigger injectors, a bigger 75mm TB (they dont effect velocity) and a bigger intake. The TB swap cost me like $125 out of my pocket after I sold the old one. I would have saved money in the long run and had a faster car to boot. Live and learn.
I bought the PMS used for $410 shipped so its actually cheaper than a chip and as far as i'm concerned (through experience) chips suck monkey balls! I can't wait to dial that thing in. I think for now, i'm just gonna get the tune best I can and leave the car and not do any more mods. I'm going to continue to save money and maybe once it warms up do a 342/347 stroker. For the heck of it, i'll probably dyno the car after the PMS.
Thats what valve float is
Mike
Highbredcloud said:As of now I am keeping the Cobra with Tmoss ported lower...I have confidence in Tom's work and the research he has done from the sources he provided...BTW: I am using a 65mm TB to maintain velocity at low RPM's......it's a street car.
Slow5.0 said:Grn92LX i forget to say i have .040" milled my heads so thats not true TW with mid cam will have problem with piston to valve
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